ok so i have the boot wired up with a standard rclick solenoid to my alarm on the accessory output, now it has stopped working for some reason,(checked all connections and will probably be ordering a proper boot solenoid to replace it)....so i have a new boot (yes another thats number 3 now lol) and this one had the original c/l solenoid in it now i have studied it and if i can make a bracket for a solenoid i can wire it up to the rest of the central locking so i can have it open with the doors and pop it up with the remote when my hands are full etc

so what i need to know is, can i get smaller size solenoids (standard ones are abit bulky)

how do i wire the solenoid up so it works in the opposite direction to the doors ie. when i open the doors, the solenoids in the doors extend and there for open the door, when the door solenoids retract it locks the door now....when the solenoid in the boot extends the boot is locked and when it retracts it unlocks the boot.

also has anyone tried it?

cheers in advance

Have you tried reversing the wires to see if the opposite motions are then true?

i haven't yet as i dint wanna mess it up but yes i will try it on existing solenoid if i can get a smaller one!

just swap the wires round it will work

nice one cheers, so do you think it can work troublestarter? i know u know what your talking about, is it worth a go?

yes swapping the wires round on the boot solenoid is absolutely fine and providing the solenoid is mounted correctly and securely it will never let down

cheers if i can get to it tomorrow morning i will have a go at making a bracket, if it doesnt fit does any one know of any smaller 2 wire solenoids? cheers

all 2 wire solenoids are the same size

i have found a mazda mx3 solenoid that looks similar size and shape to a cassette so I'm going to see whats available if the usual ones dont fit

Ok something weird happened alltho i have checked all my boot popper connections with a multi meter i decided to resolder them and hey presto it works again!!! yeye

then i set about my central locking idea for the boot

i have made a mock up that works and doesnt foul anything!!!

pics to follow

please note i have only made it out of straping from the rclick kit and it snapped and i had to bodge the bracket but ill hopefully sort it out with better materials or just remake it until it doesnt snap lol

if any on wants a guide ill do one on request

heres how the bracket looks like with just the motor attached

somethings gone wrong with my uploading so I'm sorting photo bucket

Here is the bracket attached to the wiper plate bolt

this is where i will be attaching the backet when finalised plans

This is where i will be putting the rod (please not you nee a white plastic clip that central locking models have)

i will finish it off and wire it all up next week when i get another day off I'm pretty much 99% sure it will work but ill let you all know how it goes!!

Edited 26 August, 200917 yr by Pepe

there is one flaw with your plan

the actual barrel that uses the key to unlock the boot needs to move via the motor as you already know

however if memory serves it will not move to unlock or lock without the key in the barrel

i may be wrong but i'm sure i'm not

also why do you want central locking on the boot when i can see you have a remote boot pop fitted that works regardless of whether the boot is locked or unlocked so you can permanently leave the boot locked and always be able to open it from the remote

this is how i have done the wifes polo

Just out of curiosity really I will probably not use it but I thought it would be a good trail an error and jill some Bordem on my days off while my mates and gf are working, it will in effect work the same as the standard c/l would but electric, there's a White plastic clip on my other boot I'll be putting on and it works in this wy so I am hoping it will work but I know u know you are shizzle and you are probably right! Lol

Ok guys n girls the final mock up is finished!! and it works!!!! now i only need to know one thing, does the solenoid need to go all the way back and all the way out as the lock only moves about 3/4 of the solenoids potential?

pics to follow

its side ways but you get the idea now its got the rod etc

This is the pic of the white clip on the lock that you need for this system (compare with previous pic of old lock)

When the solenoid (in the red circle) pushes down(expands) the white clip (in the yellow circle) is pushed down wards it pushes the opening mechanism (in the blue circle) backwards (towards number plate) the lock will not open!

But when the solenoid (in the red circle) retracts it pulls the white clip (in the yellow circle) upwards which in turn pushes the opening mechanism (in the blue circle) forwards (towards front of car) hense the lock will now open!

i have fitted this to my new boot lid which i dont have the key for so i dunno if it works when the key is turned the other way, but will try it soon!

job done, pretty easy tbh and it can be used in conjuction with the boot popper if you wish.

I will be trialing this dual system soon, as i said this has just killed some time for me but I've been thinking of pros and cons of the system so ill give you the ones I've thought of

Pros;

If you dont have a popper this WILL allow opening of the boot via the handle in conjunction with you aftermarket central locking.

You can use your boot popper with this aswell giving you options to pop or to unlock.

Quicker to just open your boot by hand than stand and press a button for 5 seconds or whatever

Cons; Your boot will unlock with this so anyone can open you are boot while you are sat in traffic or driving along etc but with the popper it stays locked at all times, (Alot of car c/l systems unlock the boot when the doors are unlocked aswel) possibly security risk????

Edited 27 August, 200917 yr by Pepe