Looks fresh mate

any news on the engine mate? found the cause? :)

Too busy, i've moved out the family home properly, left it all. Bit busy with being homeless, sorting divorce, custody etc.. The little i salvaged from the workshop is in boxes but most got scrapped, shame but whatever. Car is a right state in bits in a mate's works yard and is likely to be scrapped if i don't get a plot for it pronto, which is unlikely.

Not really fussed tbh, concern is with the daughter, will start again car-wise with a new project when the situ allows.

Dont let it be scrapped!!!!!

Sorry to hear that however. Hope things get sorted.

Edited 17 August, 201313 yr by erixtar1992

Things got worse - ended up driving a Ka. I actually need ear plugs with the Ka such is the noise, leaves my ears ringing. Ball bearings in a biscuit tin.

Anyway, I investigated the engine. Here's what happened.

At idle there wasn't enough oil pressure to the head, the camshafts seized at a junction, the main cam pulley sheared and the pistons hit the valves.I thought it was oil pressure loss from within the oil pump because the mating surface of the block had been butchered by someone cleaning it with an angle grinder. But stoning the surface revealed it was flat enough and the only real surface damage was in non-critical areas. So where had the oil pressure gone? With the engine fully stripped, I still couldn't work it out. Fully stripped that is, but for the up-squirters.. I blew into them and they were all leaking. There was dirt in there holding the valves open. So id been loosing all my low rpm oil pressure out them.

The bottom end is now rebuilt using a 2005 Seat Leon BCB engine. The Leon head has steel cams, unlike the iron cams of the 9n Sport head that was destroyed. I don't know what difference the duration, but the lift is the same. There's a take-off for egr in the side of the head to cylinder four exhaust port, otherwise its all the same.

The car is a mess outside a friends house. This week will determine if it survives.

Ofcourse it will survive!!

Its starting to gather interest from some residents. If its still there on Wednesday then ill almost certainly be able to save it, as I now have a home for it.

excellent! if not i am coming and towing it away! i refuse to let you scrap it! hahaha

Well, I've done a fair few engine conversions now, but that was the first one I did with it parked on a random street. One bloke gave me hassle over it but I shall be thankful it was evidently safe enough.

Got it running back to health today, cleared it of All the leaves etc it was covered in, and its now safely parked at its new home.

Good news Mikey :)

Good work bro! You still in MK?

Good to hear mate

Good work bro! You still in MK?

Yep, won't be pulling roots anytime soon, unless i kick the bucket..

Well I went to take it for its MoT test, gave it a good run and a few tweeks in preparations the emissions, well impressed with the way its running - best engine yet for sure.

Was the best gearbox too, from a 46k '99 pensioners 1.6 6n.

Was the best gearbox too

Was

ffs.

You cant be serious? Haha.

You must be the only person with worse luck than me???

Luck would be finding a dual mass flywheel for it. The Lupo GTI seems to use an oddball unit and until I find a source of generic parts it won't have long enough gearing. The other gearboxes for the lean-forward engines are the through-release type and they're so wide, they'd surely destroy the turning circle without heavy poke.

Looked into 6n 1.9D but as promising as it was at first, the bolt pattern is unique - its the tall block leaned forward. The BCB etc have a bolt pattern for some 02 gearboxes but its not the tall block bolt spacing. We're talking about four different bolt patterns here.

So now I'm gonna have to look into the newer stuff, bolt patterns for 1.4 TSi engines and the like. But i'll probably be stopped by price before getting into problems with stuff like hydro clutch, driveshafts and floorpan clearance..

I don't get how the G40 lot can crank up over 200 newtons and not be swapping gearboxes all the time. Just seems the leverage and kinetic energy from a 9cm crank stroke is just less forgiving against the variances in back-force from the driveshafts. One thing I will check with the box off are the clutch plate springs, because I had the most reliable run with the gearbox-munching AEE when I was using a Golf3 TDi plate with heavy springs in it. This one I think is an AVY plate (both 22 spline 200mm plates).

Lots to think about, doing my nut in.

So dude you blew up your gearbox? And your looking for a duelmass with a stronger gearbox and clutch? That is abit of an odd one as your right. G40s sceem to hold that much tourque

I like the fact you did an engine conversion on a random street, hope you get it back on the road soon

seriously mikey you need to look into running a mk4 golf 1.8 t gbox and the BCB block

be good for 400bhp then so at least you know it will wear out before it breaks

Edited 1 November, 201312 yr by StinkyPete

Ratios are an issue too, I want 3k at 70 with 13s..

A dual mass not only aids traction but is softer on the gearbox for the same reason - smoothing out the hammer action of the engine and smoothing out the snatchy action of struggling tyres.

Whilst I have one available, I'm even considering an auto, now.

A G40 ATV might be worth a try. On 175/60 R13 it's 67mph @ 3000rpm, and as they're the earlier design of 085 you don't seem to get the bearing issues you do with the 6N 085 'boxes.

When I was a student I went through a spate of gearboxes (into double figures) as I couldn't afford a decent ATV and a rebuild - so ended up buying any cheapish 085 with longish ratios. The 6N 085s I tried never lasted at all. I did take a lot of them apart, the 6N 'boxes seemed prone to diff and layshaft bearing failure - presumably the noises were often ignored by the 60bhp 6N owner, but with 165lb/ft from a G-lader with an extremely aggressive torque delivery they always shat themselves.

The 86C 085s have two common failure modes on the G40s - 5th gear dying, or the pinion gears in the diffs failing. Some of the G40 boys have had the pinion gears exit through the casing, but I never had one go that badly. Pinion gear wear seems more common on ATVs, presumably due to the torquey nature of the PY engine they're bolted to - and the way they're likely to be driven. Having said that, the only one I had fail had come from a car that'd bounced from kerb to kerb, with the impact bending TCAs and snapping driveshafts - so there'd been some significant shock on the pinion gears.

5th gear failure is a bit less clear. I had one go that was definitely an alignment issue, whereas another one failed that was simply torque-induced. However, the latter was a 130k mile 'box that hadn't had a rebuild, so the teeth were hardly in mint condition to begin with. Rebuilt that 'box with a brand new 5th gear set and it was fine thereafter, though I always slightly overfilled the oil.

I reckon if you could get your hands on an ATV, fitted all new bearings and checked pinion gears and 5th gear for wear (and the latter for alignment), then it should serve you well. With that approach I've managed fine since my student days, the only others I know of breaking fresh decent 'boxes regularly are Yoof (slicks + 230lb/ft) and someone else with a heavily boosted 1.6 AFH making more torque than Yoof.

There's a size difference regarding the bearing that failed between early and late gearboxes, so you could be onto something Andy if purely on the ATV being the earlier version. I found evidence of the failure being excessive heat on the inner race, heat generated it seems by both the bearing and diff pinion gear it sits against. The difference being the later inner race is thinner on a thicker ontput shaft, and by a considerable 2mm.

Whether this contributes to a higher failure rate on later units, I don't know. But I replaced the bearing and all is well.

Fuel economy has always been a strong point of mine when running bike carbs, it's all about getting them set up accurately. I've reported over 60mpg with a 1.4 8v even driven hard, and whilst some ridiculed me, others asked how. Well, the car runs fine, it's swift, I'm happy with it. Next week it's going to Devon, so I need it to be fairly frugal.

But at the MoT station yesterday it transpires that I should put a little bit more fuel into this 1.6 16v..

CO %vol:

Max limit = 4.500

Actual value = 0.100

HC ppm vol:

Max limit = 1200

Actual value = 590

Cleanest car he's had in all year

Finally got a reliable gearbox thanks to using thin 75w/75w synth oil. Yep, simple case of the taper bearings overheating because thicker 80w mineral wasn't up to the job of cooling them.

Have been enjoying reliable running for some time now but a recent shunt in the side and i just wanna throw in the towel - it's now for sale.

Thread.. [link]http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?app=forums&module=post&section=post&do=new_post&f=74[/link]

Damage (outer skins only)

That is such a shame as this was lovely car.

i know it has been almost a year now, but did this car end up with a new owner?

btw, i was very interested in wht you did with the skoda arb on your rear axle, got some pics or maybe some more info about it?

The improvements you described handling wise, have me interested :)