well, my own pikey conversion is under way, mine is an avy out of a polo though so it should be easier..

which head gasket did you use?? the 1.4 afh one?? or the gti one??

went for the AFH headgasket mate iirc.

do you happen to have any mk2/3 gearboxes at all so you can check if they fit for me?

if not wheres hayling island so i can pop down with you to have a look.

good luck with the convo, i need to rebuild the brakes on the polo before I'm can stick the engine in.

I'm interested to see how this turns out, as i could see it being a truck load of fail, but would be nice if it really is this easy.

no i don't have any vw gearboxes here, sorry, although i can tell you that it has the same lug pattern as an 1.6 aee engine because i used an engine stand, and the last engine it had on there was an aee and it went straight on without adjusting it....

mine is not going to have a vw box on it, it's going to have a skoda box on and go into my felicia pickup

erm, hayling island is on the south coast near portsmouth, so about a 250 mile drive for you

here's a pic of the back of the block, as you can see it's totally different to the lupo arc block

edit: apologies for the thread hijack, i was just trying to get so ideas off this thread

Edited 26 February, 201016 yr by SkodaBoy

no worries mate, we can turn it into an faq when we're both finished.

if the aee fits, then the mk3 gearbox will fit which is a win.

its hard to tell but the sump looks the same as the lupos, as it has extra webbing poss for strength on the lower left of your pic (just half in the shot)

can you do me a favour and measure the distance from front to back of the bottom of the avy block. as the afh sump fitted on the lupo bottom end but was about 10-15mm shorter and so is a no go and i need to get a new sump

There's only really two castings.

Various small differences,are quite irrelevant at this point (the strengthening ribs on the polo GTi lump may be desirable,but not necessary).

Casting A:

6n based unit. 085 gearbox pattern,basically the same as the 1.4 AFH and 1.4 8v Polo engines. Also same as AEE,but for that having a higher deck height. Uses same steel sump.

This is fitted to Polo GTi, but has addition of smaller head bolt thread.

Casting B:

Based on above,but has wider crankcase flange for wider alloy sump. This sump doesn't have to give driveshaft clearance,as this block is cast for the 020 series gearbox. No starter motor clearance for this reason,either.

This one is fitted to 9n/Golf/Bora and Lupo GTi.

For fitting to the Polo,you will need to use casting A.

Avoid casting B at all costs because it will not fit,unless you have a casting A block to put the casting B internals into. Which is what i did - i used casting B internals from a MK4 Golf and a casting A block from a 6n valver.

If your donor casting A block was an 8v then you'll need to tap the thread for the idler pulley. And if an AEE, the deck will have to be skimmed down to the correct height.

the 1.4 afh block and the 8v blocks are not the same though mikeymk, the afh has an extra hole tapped for the belt idler (i think that's what you mention in your last sentance above)...

the only other real notable difference on the avy block (and other late 1.4 polo/lupo/golf 16v blocks) is that it has a crank sensor mounted on the flywheel end of the crank, plus the crankshaft has been machined to take a bosch 60-2 trigger wheel which is a transision fit onto the crank, if you do need to take off the crank trigger/real seal housing it must be put back on with the trigger wheel in the right orientation so that the 2 missing teeth pass the sensor 85 degree BTDC, when you buy a new trigger(comes complete with the oil seal and housing for about £85 iirc) it will be locked into place so that you literally just turn the engine to tdc then whack it on, then remove the locking tab.... although this is fairly irrelevant as the afh injection gear does not need the crank sensor to operate...

with regards to the A castings, some of the later spec AFH engines are the taller (9mm iirc) variety which is the same as the later AEE units, normally you can spot the difference straight away, the early shorter ones use a chain driven oil pump, and the later tall ones have a duocentric pump which is driven directly of the crank... the AFH in my skoda pickup is the later type with a duocentic pump

the cylinder head bolts that i have just taken out of this avy lump were M9 threads

I had an early AFH and now run a late one,the only difference being the late one had hollow con rods and the duocentric pump,and the earlier one had I beam rods and chain driven pump. The deck heights were the same. I've seen a few,all with the lower deck,would be interesting to see this high deck version you speak of - particularly as the longer belt would enable one to convert an AEE to a 1.6 16v without removing the block from the car.

You correct yourself in brackets on the first point about the 1.4 8v,so no need for me to clear that up.

I also state that I'm talking about the two fundamental blocks,and not the less important details. You can use whatever pump,crank,pistons etc you like (Specs change often,id have pages to write if listing other differences). My 98 AFH block now has a chain driven pump for example,but that's irrelevant.

hi guys i've been doing some tinkering today and just finished rebuilding my spare afh head to go on there..

i've also discovered that the AFH cylinder head gasket is no good for it, it will physically fit, and all the water ways etc line up, plus the oil feed it fine... but the 3 oil drainback slots at the front are a slightly different shape on AFH blocks so you need to use the polo gti avy head gasket to fit it onto the avy block

Edited 2 March, 201016 yr by SkodaBoy

there was a way to grip the beast, but even with the beastiest drill at thier disposal, it merely just tickled the surface and wouldnt make a dent, so they put there heads together for 5 and came up with a turned down threaded rod which is tres perfect for my needs!

i can confirm this, i've tried to drill one out in a big badass lathe, clamped the sleeve in the chuck and using the tailstock chuck/drill and even with cobalt drills and plenty of cutting oil it barely even tickles the surface, it's because the sleeve has been nitride hardened which is the same way gudgeon pins are done, if you could drill through the surface layer it would probably be quite soft underneath.. tbh i can't believe they would go to the effort of nitriding a component like this... i think i'm going to have to make up a threaded bar like the op with M10 one end and M8 the other end... or the other option i'e thought about it drilling and tapping the hole in the block and putting an m8 insert in there