I agre, mines probably only around 100-110hp and is around the same times

But it should be making a lot more power!

No ones questioning the 1/4 times or RR accuracy, just the power figures.

Like guy said, his made similar power with a de-cat and aftermarket filter, this has a far better spec and makes only

11BHP peak power greater than factory

Edited 23 September, 201213 yr by MaxGT

Man going on this, my afh must have only been about 95-100 bhp haha if that lol

Yeah, but as far as RR accuracy goes as discussed like!

I'd expect around 130hp tbh, but maybe the combination of cams etc don't work well together.

I'd expect a bit more to be honest,

Carbs, cams, headwork and 4 branch. Like you say, it could be a mixture of un-compatibility and a very rich mixture!

Whats the spec on the carbs and cams, and also the headwork?

I'd expect a bit more to be honest,

Carbs, cams, headwork and 4 branch. Like you say, it could be a mixture of un-compatibility and a very rich mixture!

Whats the spec on the carbs and cams, and also the headwork?

Carbs are 750's with 130 main jets in at the moment, unsure of exact cam specs, will look or the paperwork tomorow, not sure how i could describe the headwork really, i might have a pic or 2 somewhere in my photobucket i can dig out

See them carbs are quite big too, depending on choke size...

Who did the headwork? I'd certainly think about getting the carb's set-up again, get them leaned out.

See them carbs are quite big too, depending on choke size...

Who did the headwork? I'd certainly think about getting the carb's set-up again, get them leaned out.

I will make a trip to bogg brothers soon and see what he thinks!

I used a company called headtune for the headwork

Prob ain't 130's? Don't bogg bros drill jets?

What else do they do with the carbs apart from main jets then?

Aye, whats the choke size on those carbs then?

I looked at my 135's and they looked hugggeee

Aye, whats the choke size on those carbs then?

As in venturi or throttle size?

Isn't it the same on these?

My tapping has finally gone!!!!

Finally got around to replacing my tappets tonight after a 3 week wait from germany

But it also developed a low rev misfire when i came out of work this afternoon, checked my dizzy cap and rotor arm and they are foobard! Rotor arm has about 20 degrees of freeplay, gives a nice pop though

so timing could of been miles out if the shaft is sloppy?

so timing could of been miles out if the shaft is sloppy?

exactly

Can move my brand new rotor arm around too, it's annoying but it's not THAT loose so it just sets itself where it's happy and stays put!

Still going for mappable ignition then?

so timing could of been miles out if the shaft is sloppy?

exactly

Excellent news then mate! Should feel a new car then with it all tight and releasing a few extra ponies :-)

Rotor arm could have caused some issues! Now u might get 112 bhp! Lol

I just ordered one for mine too

your dizzy may need a rebuild Bilco as it sound like the bushes inside have gone if its really sloppy that happened to mine on the dyno blew the internals of the dizzy basically and was causing loss of power they couldnt get it past 6500 rpm as the ignition was just stopping

your dizzy may need a rebuild Bilco as it sound like the bushes inside have gone if its really sloppy that happened to mine on the dyno blew the internals of the dizzy basically and was causing loss of power they couldnt get it past 6500 rpm as the ignition was just stopping

the actual shaft of the dizzy is fine i checked it with the rotor arm off, replaced the dizzy cap but got given wrong rotor arm so will have to replace that tomorrow instead!

oh right thats good then at least pity about the arm being wrong though

would mean a new dizzy or shit loads of hassle rebuilding that one and trying to find new bushes if it was the shaft

I've had a mare with rotor arms, they get real loose fast, the retaining spring/clip is always a soft metal and never grips, and i've had the locating tab in the bottom break away from the moulding so the arm acts like a compass and just spins wherever it feels like it.. Nothing a bit of coke can metal wedged in there doesn't sort, but the quality of rotor arms these days is worrying.

So today i have given myself 2 choices...

1. Try to somehow get to the bottom of this power loss, no idea where to even start with this one...

2. Get rid if this fucking cursed engine which has caused me nothing but problems since day one. And slowly and carefully build a big power g40 to replace it with.