Ah! Buggar! What's the plan - new belt and see how bad the valves are?

Yes, hopefully there won't be too much damage because she was going quite slowly when it snapped and the engine turns over quite freely without any untoward noises!! I'll keep you posted!

iv heard "and it is hear say" that the 1l and 1.3l standard (if the head has never been skimmed) that the valve clearance is enough so that even if the belt snapps the pistons wont make contact with the valves, when i removed the head from my 1.3 and this looks right so you should be fine

Unfortunately (and I genuinely hope this isn't the case) I'd expect several bent and/or chipped valves.

Unfortunately (and I genuinely hope this isn't the case) I'd expect several bent and/or chipped valves.

Hello once again. Been away a few days but back now to, hopefully, finally sort the Polo. Thanks for the last few posts.

I'm not sure whether any valves are damaged or not as I don't propose to take the head off to take a look unless I really have to. Both camshaft and crank turn over from TDC position without apparently fouling anything - could be good news or bad I guess. I'm trying get the tiimg belt off. The manual miplies it shouldn't be necessary to remove the crank pulley bolt but, having removed the 4 allen screws the pulley is still firmly attached, so could the book be lying? To remove the pulley bolt I guess i have to jam the flywheel. So, where is the starter moter and how does it come off? Once again the book is not a lot of use. It shows 2 photos but I can't relate these to my engine. I've taken off the washer bottle as directed but still can't see the beast nor even the cable to solenoid - there is a lot of grease and muck about. Any thoughts gratefully received.

Good to hear it's getting a new belt :-)

Normally after removing the 4 allen screws the alternator belt pulley can be removed from the crank. There is no need to undo the crank cam belt pulley (nor will it be easy to do so with the engine in the car!). You've probably find though that the alternator belt pulley is a very close fit over the cambelt pulley and may well have rusted in place. Lots of penetrating fluid and wiggle back/forth and it should come off. To get the pulley out of the engine bay to get the cambelt on it may be necessary to put a trolley jack on the sump (with a bit of wood) and undo the driver's side and gearbox engine mount. Then jack the engine up an inch or two and shift it over to the passenger's side to get clearence. Once the alternator belt pulley is off changing the belt is fairly straight forward.

Is the cambelt cover plastic or metal?

Good to hear it's getting a new belt :-)

Normally after removing the 4 allen screws the alternator belt pulley can be removed from the crank. There is no need to undo the crank cam belt pulley (nor will it be easy to do so with the engine in the car!). You've probably find though that the alternator belt pulley is a very close fit over the cambelt pulley and may well have rusted in place. Lots of penetrating fluid and wiggle back/forth and it should come off. To get the pulley out of the engine bay to get the cambelt on it may be necessary to put a trolley jack on the sump (with a bit of wood) and undo the driver's side and gearbox engine mount. Then jack the engine up an inch or two and shift it over to the passenger's side to get clearence. Once the alternator belt pulley is off changing the belt is fairly straight forward.

Is the cambelt cover plastic or metal?

Thanks for that, Chris. The cover is a plastic one ni 2 halves. The bottom half won't come off until the crank pulley is off. It's interesting that the easily accessible top half is simply removed with clips whilst the almost inaccessible bottom bit is bolted on and tucked under the alternator. A German engineer with a sense of humour perhaps!!

In the revisions section (Ch 12) of the MK2 manual it describes later models as having a revised method of fixing the crank pulley in which it is necessary to remove the crank pulley bolt (the same amusing engineer no doubt responsible). However, I can't decide whether, as you say the pulley is rust welded to/a very close fit to the bolt washer or indeed both. I think I'll try taking a hair dryer to it to see if a little heat shifts it. It's quite difficult to get access to squirt Ease-it but I'll give this a go too if gentle heat fails.

If it turns out to be necessary to remove the crank bolt the manual suggestes removing the starter motor and jamming the flywheel to do so. Apart from the fact that I can't identify the starter motor, this seems a reasonable plan. The pictures shown in the manual bear no obvious relation to what I see and the shape of the flywheel cover casting leaves me pessimistic that I shall be able to get at much of the flywheel to jam even once the starter is off.

But hey! The manual talks about needing to remove an exhaust stay from underneath the starter but I can see no such stay. Pictures 13.7 A & B in section 9.6 (obviously taken with the engine removed) and picture 13.4 page 1.9 suggest that the starter sits between the engine and the scuttle. However, having removed the washer bottle I still can't see it.

I've already got the car jacked up and the offside wheel off to get at the crank pulley. Do I need to jack up the nearside and have that wheel off too to get sight of the starter from beneath the car?

Yup - the plastic cam cover is a joke. Effectively all you can do with the quick-remove panel is inspect the belt.

Goodness, I hope you don't have to remove the crank bolt! The access and torque required would make it a hell of a job I'd imagine. The starter motor is underneath the inlet manifold at the bulkhead side (back) of the engine, mounted into the gearbox bell housing.

I've removed the starter and tried various methods to jam the flywheel before. You're right - it's not ideal and just about good enough to remove the 4 allen bolts on the alternator crank pulley, I can't see it working for the crank pulley bolt.

The alternator pulley is a very close fit over the crank bolt and as you suggest likely to have rust-welded in place. Should be able to soak it in penetrating fluid from the hole in the inner wing, then heat as you describe. Rocking it may help. It's suprisingly easy to bend them though (maybe I'm just ham-fisted). However, if you have to bend it I've a spare you can have for free.

Let us know how the progress goes. If you find you're stuck and would like a hand (work allowing) I'd be happy to pop over sometime this week.

Good to hear it's getting a new belt :-)

Normally after removing the 4 allen screws the alternator belt pulley can be removed from the crank. There is no need to undo the crank cam belt pulley (nor will it be easy to do so with the engine in the car!). You've probably find though that the alternator belt pulley is a very close fit over the cambelt pulley and may well have rusted in place. Lots of penetrating fluid and wiggle back/forth and it should come off. To get the pulley out of the engine bay to get the cambelt on it may be necessary to put a trolley jack on the sump (with a bit of wood) and undo the driver's side and gearbox engine mount. Then jack the engine up an inch or two and shift it over to the passenger's side to get clearence. Once the alternator belt pulley is off changing the belt is fairly straight forward.

Is the cambelt cover plastic or metal?

Thanks for that, Chris. The cover is a plastic one ni 2 halves. The bottom half won't come off until the crank pulley is off. It's interesting that the easily accessible top half is simply removed with clips whilst the almost inaccessible bottom bit is bolted on and tucked under the alternator. A German engineer with a sense of humour perhaps!!

In the revisions section (Ch 12) of the MK2 manual it describes later models as having a revised method of fixing the crank pulley in which it is necessary to remove the crank pulley bolt (the same amusing engineer no doubt responsible). However, I can't decide whether, as you say the pulley is rust welded to/a very close fit to the bolt washer or indeed both. I think I'll try taking a hair dryer to it to see if a little heat shifts it. It's quite difficult to get access to squirt Ease-it but I'll give this a go too if gentle heat fails.

If it turns out to be necessary to remove the crank bolt the manual suggestes removing the starter motor and jamming the flywheel to do so. Apart from the fact that I can't identify the starter motor, this seems a reasonable plan. The pictures shown in the manual bear no obvious relation to what I see and the shape of the flywheel cover casting leaves me pessimistic that I shall be able to get at much of the flywheel to jam even once the starter is off.

But hey! The manual talks about needing to remove an exhaust stay from underneath the starter but I can see no such stay. Pictures 13.7 A & B in section 9.6 (obviously taken with the engine removed) and picture 13.4 page 1.9 suggest that the starter sits between the engine and the scuttle. However, having removed the washer bottle I still can't see it.

I've already got the car jacked up and the offside wheel off to get at the crank pulley. Do I need to jack up the nearside and have that wheel off too to get sight of the starter from beneath the car?

none of this makes sence to me I'm not undermining either of you, but changing a timing belt is an hour job tops. second thing is iv worked in a few mechanical garages and no car iv ever changed a belt on had i ever had to go to such extent.

if your cam can spin freely whilst at top dead center this is good. it means that as i suspect there is enough clearance for the valves to escape a bashing when the timing belt snaps SO YOUR HEAD WILL BE FINE.

the plastic cover is actually three peices, the backing which is behind the cam and crank wheels. (it also has a cutout at the lower half for the crank timing, this flange looks as though it is one peice to the lower outer cover) the lower outer cover is removed after removing the alternater pully from the crank pully (four allen bolts replace with standard bolts when refitting) you will then be able to see three 10mm bolts remove these and the lower part of the cover will come off. then fit new belt timed up correctly. (you would do well to check you water pump is not seized as it is also the belt tensioner, if it is you will have to smash it out and replace it (i replace them anyway as they are crucial).

i also will be up north bank holiday and will sort it for free! just so i can show off rearly I'm like a machine myself when it comes to greasy bits, its people i struggle with

Yup - the plastic cam cover is a joke. Effectively all you can do with the quick-remove panel is inspect the belt.

Goodness, I hope you don't have to remove the crank bolt! The access and torque required would make it a hell of a job I'd imagine. The starter motor is underneath the inlet manifold at the bulkhead side (back) of the engine, mounted into the gearbox bell housing.

I've removed the starter and tried various methods to jam the flywheel before. You're right - it's not ideal and just about good enough to remove the 4 allen bolts on the alternator crank pulley, I can't see it working for the crank pulley bolt.

The alternator pulley is a very close fit over the crank bolt and as you suggest likely to have rust-welded in place. Should be able to soak it in penetrating fluid from the hole in the inner wing, then heat as you describe. Rocking it may help. It's suprisingly easy to bend them though (maybe I'm just ham-fisted). However, if you have to bend it I've a spare you can have for free.

Let us know how the progress goes. If you find you're stuck and would like a hand (work allowing) I'd be happy to pop over sometime this week.

Hey, success!! Crank pulley couldn't take the heat and came off with just a little levering. Interestingly, the flange faces were bright and shiney - clearly had been pressed so hard together that no moisture could ever penetrate. You were indeed absolutely right about needing to jack the engine up in order to get sufficient clearance to remove the pulley and extract the lower cover and timing belt. Can that design be deliberate or simply malign? Oh, and where in the manual does it suggest having to jack up the engine? I don't believe Mr Haynes has ever done this job with the engine still in the car

Anyway the new belt is now on and the plan is now to put everything back together and see what happens. I'll keep you posted. If there's still a problem with damaged valves or pistons then I might very well take you up on your very kind offer of help. Thanks very much.

Good to hear it's getting a new belt :-)

Normally after removing the 4 allen screws the alternator belt pulley can be removed from the crank. There is no need to undo the crank cam belt pulley (nor will it be easy to do so with the engine in the car!). You've probably find though that the alternator belt pulley is a very close fit over the cambelt pulley and may well have rusted in place. Lots of penetrating fluid and wiggle back/forth and it should come off. To get the pulley out of the engine bay to get the cambelt on it may be necessary to put a trolley jack on the sump (with a bit of wood) and undo the driver's side and gearbox engine mount. Then jack the engine up an inch or two and shift it over to the passenger's side to get clearence. Once the alternator belt pulley is off changing the belt is fairly straight forward.

Is the cambelt cover plastic or metal?

Thanks for that, Chris. The cover is a plastic one ni 2 halves. The bottom half won't come off until the crank pulley is off. It's interesting that the easily accessible top half is simply removed with clips whilst the almost inaccessible bottom bit is bolted on and tucked under the alternator. A German engineer with a sense of humour perhaps!!

In the revisions section (Ch 12) of the MK2 manual it describes later models as having a revised method of fixing the crank pulley in which it is necessary to remove the crank pulley bolt (the same amusing engineer no doubt responsible). However, I can't decide whether, as you say the pulley is rust welded to/a very close fit to the bolt washer or indeed both. I think I'll try taking a hair dryer to it to see if a little heat shifts it. It's quite difficult to get access to squirt Ease-it but I'll give this a go too if gentle heat fails.

If it turns out to be necessary to remove the crank bolt the manual suggestes removing the starter motor and jamming the flywheel to do so. Apart from the fact that I can't identify the starter motor, this seems a reasonable plan. The pictures shown in the manual bear no obvious relation to what I see and the shape of the flywheel cover casting leaves me pessimistic that I shall be able to get at much of the flywheel to jam even once the starter is off.

But hey! The manual talks about needing to remove an exhaust stay from underneath the starter but I can see no such stay. Pictures 13.7 A & B in section 9.6 (obviously taken with the engine removed) and picture 13.4 page 1.9 suggest that the starter sits between the engine and the scuttle. However, having removed the washer bottle I still can't see it.

I've already got the car jacked up and the offside wheel off to get at the crank pulley. Do I need to jack up the nearside and have that wheel off too to get sight of the starter from beneath the car?

none of this makes sence to me I'm not undermining either of you, but changing a timing belt is an hour job tops. second thing is iv worked in a few mechanical garages and no car iv ever changed a belt on had i ever had to go to such extent.

if your cam can spin freely whilst at top dead center this is good. it means that as i suspect there is enough clearance for the valves to escape a bashing when the timing belt snaps SO YOUR HEAD WILL BE FINE.

the plastic cover is actually three peices, the backing which is behind the cam and crank wheels. (it also has a cutout at the lower half for the crank timing, this flange looks as though it is one peice to the lower outer cover) the lower outer cover is removed after removing the alternater pully from the crank pully (four allen bolts replace with standard bolts when refitting) you will then be able to see three 10mm bolts remove these and the lower part of the cover will come off. then fit new belt timed up correctly. (you would do well to check you water pump is not seized as it is also the belt tensioner, if it is you will have to smash it out and replace it (i replace them anyway as they are crucial).

i also will be up north bank holiday and will sort it for free! just so i can show off rearly I'm like a machine myself when it comes to greasy bits, its people i struggle with

Good to hear it's getting a new belt :-)

Normally after removing the 4 allen screws the alternator belt pulley can be removed from the crank. There is no need to undo the crank cam belt pulley (nor will it be easy to do so with the engine in the car!). You've probably find though that the alternator belt pulley is a very close fit over the cambelt pulley and may well have rusted in place. Lots of penetrating fluid and wiggle back/forth and it should come off. To get the pulley out of the engine bay to get the cambelt on it may be necessary to put a trolley jack on the sump (with a bit of wood) and undo the driver's side and gearbox engine mount. Then jack the engine up an inch or two and shift it over to the passenger's side to get clearence. Once the alternator belt pulley is off changing the belt is fairly straight forward.

Is the cambelt cover plastic or metal?

Thanks for that, Chris. The cover is a plastic one ni 2 halves. The bottom half won't come off until the crank pulley is off. It's interesting that the easily accessible top half is simply removed with clips whilst the almost inaccessible bottom bit is bolted on and tucked under the alternator. A German engineer with a sense of humour perhaps!!

In the revisions section (Ch 12) of the MK2 manual it describes later models as having a revised method of fixing the crank pulley in which it is necessary to remove the crank pulley bolt (the same amusing engineer no doubt responsible). However, I can't decide whether, as you say the pulley is rust welded to/a very close fit to the bolt washer or indeed both. I think I'll try taking a hair dryer to it to see if a little heat shifts it. It's quite difficult to get access to squirt Ease-it but I'll give this a go too if gentle heat fails.

If it turns out to be necessary to remove the crank bolt the manual suggestes removing the starter motor and jamming the flywheel to do so. Apart from the fact that I can't identify the starter motor, this seems a reasonable plan. The pictures shown in the manual bear no obvious relation to what I see and the shape of the flywheel cover casting leaves me pessimistic that I shall be able to get at much of the flywheel to jam even once the starter is off.

But hey! The manual talks about needing to remove an exhaust stay from underneath the starter but I can see no such stay. Pictures 13.7 A & B in section 9.6 (obviously taken with the engine removed) and picture 13.4 page 1.9 suggest that the starter sits between the engine and the scuttle. However, having removed the washer bottle I still can't see it.

I've already got the car jacked up and the offside wheel off to get at the crank pulley. Do I need to jack up the nearside and have that wheel off too to get sight of the starter from beneath the car?

none of this makes sence to me I'm not undermining either of you, but changing a timing belt is an hour job tops. second thing is iv worked in a few mechanical garages and no car iv ever changed a belt on had i ever had to go to such extent.

if your cam can spin freely whilst at top dead center this is good. it means that as i suspect there is enough clearance for the valves to escape a bashing when the timing belt snaps SO YOUR HEAD WILL BE FINE.

the plastic cover is actually three peices, the backing which is behind the cam and crank wheels. (it also has a cutout at the lower half for the crank timing, this flange looks as though it is one peice to the lower outer cover) the lower outer cover is removed after removing the alternater pully from the crank pully (four allen bolts replace with standard bolts when refitting) you will then be able to see three 10mm bolts remove these and the lower part of the cover will come off. then fit new belt timed up correctly. (you would do well to check you water pump is not seized as it is also the belt tensioner, if it is you will have to smash it out and replace it (i replace them anyway as they are crucial).

i also will be up north bank holiday and will sort it for free! just so i can show off rearly I'm like a machine myself when it comes to greasy bits, its people i struggle with

I'm sure you're right, if I knew what I was doing I could have done the job more quickly and with less fuss. However, I'm learning and with an older lady you have to take your time - speed isn't always of the essence! In mitigation, I spent a good deal of time looking for the right tool - for instance a bar long enough to unscrew those pesky Allen bolts. Fritz must have had 3 weetabix the day he tightened those and I'm pretty sure they haven't been off since.

You are absolutely right about the water pump - it is pretty solid. I've managed to get the belt on without needing to move it and the tension is quite good. As with the pulley, I'll try the heat gun trick before reaching for the hammer.

The last time I did a job like this it was 30 years ago on a Mk 3 Cortina GT. The timing belt on that broke whilst doing 90 mph on the motorway. I had to rebuild the engine as several valves smashed into pistons and actually smashed through one of them. I'm hoping your right and that something similar will not have happened here. Fingers crossed. If you are passing, and I'm still struggling, I'd be glad to make the tea whilst you work the magic.

Good to hear it's getting a new belt :-)

Normally after removing the 4 allen screws the alternator belt pulley can be removed from the crank. There is no need to undo the crank cam belt pulley (nor will it be easy to do so with the engine in the car!). You've probably find though that the alternator belt pulley is a very close fit over the cambelt pulley and may well have rusted in place. Lots of penetrating fluid and wiggle back/forth and it should come off. To get the pulley out of the engine bay to get the cambelt on it may be necessary to put a trolley jack on the sump (with a bit of wood) and undo the driver's side and gearbox engine mount. Then jack the engine up an inch or two and shift it over to the passenger's side to get clearence. Once the alternator belt pulley is off changing the belt is fairly straight forward.

Is the cambelt cover plastic or metal?

Thanks for that, Chris. The cover is a plastic one ni 2 halves. The bottom half won't come off until the crank pulley is off. It's interesting that the easily accessible top half is simply removed with clips whilst the almost inaccessible bottom bit is bolted on and tucked under the alternator. A German engineer with a sense of humour perhaps!!

In the revisions section (Ch 12) of the MK2 manual it describes later models as having a revised method of fixing the crank pulley in which it is necessary to remove the crank pulley bolt (the same amusing engineer no doubt responsible). However, I can't decide whether, as you say the pulley is rust welded to/a very close fit to the bolt washer or indeed both. I think I'll try taking a hair dryer to it to see if a little heat shifts it. It's quite difficult to get access to squirt Ease-it but I'll give this a go too if gentle heat fails.

If it turns out to be necessary to remove the crank bolt the manual suggestes removing the starter motor and jamming the flywheel to do so. Apart from the fact that I can't identify the starter motor, this seems a reasonable plan. The pictures shown in the manual bear no obvious relation to what I see and the shape of the flywheel cover casting leaves me pessimistic that I shall be able to get at much of the flywheel to jam even once the starter is off.

But hey! The manual talks about needing to remove an exhaust stay from underneath the starter but I can see no such stay. Pictures 13.7 A & B in section 9.6 (obviously taken with the engine removed) and picture 13.4 page 1.9 suggest that the starter sits between the engine and the scuttle. However, having removed the washer bottle I still can't see it.

I've already got the car jacked up and the offside wheel off to get at the crank pulley. Do I need to jack up the nearside and have that wheel off too to get sight of the starter from beneath the car?

none of this makes sence to me I'm not undermining either of you, but changing a timing belt is an hour job tops. second thing is iv worked in a few mechanical garages and no car iv ever changed a belt on had i ever had to go to such extent.

if your cam can spin freely whilst at top dead center this is good. it means that as i suspect there is enough clearance for the valves to escape a bashing when the timing belt snaps SO YOUR HEAD WILL BE FINE.

the plastic cover is actually three peices, the backing which is behind the cam and crank wheels. (it also has a cutout at the lower half for the crank timing, this flange looks as though it is one peice to the lower outer cover) the lower outer cover is removed after removing the alternater pully from the crank pully (four allen bolts replace with standard bolts when refitting) you will then be able to see three 10mm bolts remove these and the lower part of the cover will come off. then fit new belt timed up correctly. (you would do well to check you water pump is not seized as it is also the belt tensioner, if it is you will have to smash it out and replace it (i replace them anyway as they are crucial).

i also will be up north bank holiday and will sort it for free! just so i can show off rearly I'm like a machine myself when it comes to greasy bits, its people i struggle with

I'm sure you're right, if I knew what I was doing I could have done the job more quickly and with less fuss. However, I'm learning and with an older lady you have to take your time - speed isn't always of the essence! In mitigation, I spent a good deal of time looking for the right tool - for instance a bar long enough to unscrew those pesky Allen bolts. Fritz must have had 3 weetabix the day he tightened those and I'm pretty sure they haven't been off since.

You are absolutely right about the water pump - it is pretty solid. I've managed to get the belt on without needing to move it and the tension is quite good. As with the pulley, I'll try the heat gun trick before reaching for the hammer.

The last time I did a job like this it was 30 years ago on a Mk 3 Cortina GT. The timing belt on that broke whilst doing 90 mph on the motorway. I had to rebuild the engine as several valves smashed into pistons and actually smashed through one of them. I'm hoping your right and that something similar will not have happened here. Fingers crossed. If you are passing, and I'm still struggling, I'd be glad to make the tea whilst you work the magic.

i ment no malice i just get wound up easy soz, but yes I'm going to be in lincoln wragby for the long weekend, i would be suprised if any of you are valves were damaged. also turn it over by hand first so that the tensioner can alighn the belt correctly before you try to start it good luck

Nomad Dubber: on the Waterpump - it's something that hadn't occured to me. Luckily it seems it might be OK as-is. Like you say, it's worth changing with the belt, but not really until the valves have been checked out.

Dadcanyou: Glad it'd making good progress. I'll keep my fingers crossed for the valves. Worst-case and a few are bent, what's your plan? Fix or bin? I've a nearly complete MK2 head here if you need anything. hehe made me laugh with the Haynes proceedure and Fritz with his 3 wheatabix^TM

I wanna know if you fixed it yet dude I'm still gonna be up north weekend if you need help ill make it purrr like my missus lol

I wanna know if you fixed it yet dude I'm still gonna be up north weekend if you need help ill make it purrr like my missus lol

I wanna know if you fixed it yet dude I'm still gonna be up north weekend if you need help ill make it purrr like my missus lol

You're welcome to come and have a look. The car is back together with a new timing belt on but it won't go. It tries, but sounds very lumpy - as if the timing is out, or there are damaged valves.

Do you have the splined tool to remove the head? And a timing light would be useful just to check the timing.

When do you want to come? I'm at home over the bank holiday weekend.

Nomad Dubber: on the Waterpump - it's something that hadn't occured to me. Luckily it seems it might be OK as-is. Like you say, it's worth changing with the belt, but not really until the valves have been checked out.

Dadcanyou: Glad it'd making good progress. I'll keep my fingers crossed for the valves. Worst-case and a few are bent, what's your plan? Fix or bin? I've a nearly complete MK2 head here if you need anything. hehe made me laugh with the Haynes proceedure and Fritz with his 3 wheatabix^TM

Chris, the car's back together but won't start. It tries but is very lumpy - as if the timing is out but I don't think it is that far out. So, I could be looking at needing your head. If you're free to lend a hand too I'd much appreciate it.

Eak. Doesn't sound good.

Checked the compression? I've a tester here if you need it.

The head I have doesn't have cam bearing caps, and these are machined to each head and so not generally recommended to be transferred. No tappets or camshaft either. However all the valves are there and in good shape and you're welcome to cannibalize what you need; I only really want the valve springs for myself.

I'm nursing the flu and hope to be in Manchester tomorrow and Monday but if you need anything then you're welcome to pick it up - the girlfriend should be in. Otherwise perhaps an evening next week I can come over to you. See when nomad dubber is available too

Eak. Doesn't sound good.

Checked the compression? I've a tester here if you need it.

The head I have doesn't have cam bearing caps, and these are machined to each head and so not generally recommended to be transferred. No tappets or camshaft either. However all the valves are there and in good shape and you're welcome to cannibalize what you need; I only really want the valve springs for myself.

I'm nursing the flu and hope to be in Manchester tomorrow and Monday but if you need anything then you're welcome to pick it up - the girlfriend should be in. Otherwise perhaps an evening next week I can come over to you. See when nomad dubber is available too

Sorry to hear you've been struck down with the flu. Hope it hasn't spoiled your weekend.

I've checked the cylinder compressions and, sadly, N3 doesn't have one but the others are OK. This explains why the engine runs so roughly even though the timing is spot on. I haven't taken the head off yet - although the splined tool I bought years ago to remove a Cortina head fits the Polo cyl inder bolts too (there's lucky, eh?) - but I suspect that at least one valve must be broken. I'd like to take up your offer to cannibalize some bits off your head, so let me know an evening which is good for you. Do you have a valve spring compressor I could borrow too?

Yeah bit or a buggar really - didn't get anything done I'd wanted to. Nevermind.

As you say, doesn't sound too disasterous. Hehe - nice one on the Cortina M12 splined tool.

I'll speak to 'her indoors and see when's best to pop over and let you know tonight. Don't have a valve spring compressor though sorry

Edited 31 August, 201016 yr by cheys03

be careful as valves are made spesifically for each head I'm so sorry dude but i had to do my uncles car when i got to licoln Typical, but he treated me to some sea fishing of wich we all caught jam ALL!.

I'm still prepared to help you out but valves all start there life new and as the car wears they all strech or shrink and seat togethert as a set so replacing one might not work as a new one will be shorter (as the others would have streched) and a second hand one could be slightly different in a number of ways,

the best bet is to either replace all the valves Which could be expensive machine shop ect ect

or quite often to replace it with a second hand head which as often worked for me and saves lots of time,

if you have a 1.3 not a 1.0 i have a perfect working head that i built previously, you can tell it is a good runner via the valve collouration wich i can send a pick of

i will help you put it on your car for bragging wrights lol transport could be an issue if you are temped we will talk further in detail

be careful as valves are made spesifically for each head I'm so sorry dude but i had to do my uncles car when i got to licoln Typical, but he treated me to some sea fishing of wich we all caught jam ALL!.

I'm still prepared to help you out but valves all start there life new and as the car wears they all strech or shrink and seat togethert as a set so replacing one might not work as a new one will be shorter (as the others would have streched) and a second hand one could be slightly different in a number of ways,

the best bet is to either replace all the valves Which could be expensive machine shop ect ect

or quite often to replace it with a second hand head which as often worked for me and saves lots of time,

if you have a 1.3 not a 1.0 i have a perfect working head that i built previously, you can tell it is a good runner via the valve collouration wich i can send a pick of

i will help you put it on your car for bragging wrights lol transport could be an issue if you are temped we will talk further in detail

Hi Aaron,

Sorry to hear you didn't catch anything but I guess you enjoyed the day out in the sea air. I take your points made above but in view of the general condition of the car and the expense of replacing the head I think I'll try just conservatively replacing the damaged valves and seeing what happens. However, if that fails I'll get back in touch.

Thanks for your help and hope you catch at least your tea when you next go fishing!

be careful as valves are made spesifically for each head I'm so sorry dude but i had to do my uncles car when i got to licoln Typical, but he treated me to some sea fishing of wich we all caught jam ALL!.

I'm still prepared to help you out but valves all start there life new and as the car wears they all strech or shrink and seat togethert as a set so replacing one might not work as a new one will be shorter (as the others would have streched) and a second hand one could be slightly different in a number of ways,

the best bet is to either replace all the valves Which could be expensive machine shop ect ect

or quite often to replace it with a second hand head which as often worked for me and saves lots of time,

if you have a 1.3 not a 1.0 i have a perfect working head that i built previously, you can tell it is a good runner via the valve collouration wich i can send a pick of

i will help you put it on your car for bragging wrights lol transport could be an issue if you are temped we will talk further in detail

Hi Aaron,

Well, finally the car is sorted! It turns out that 1 exhaust valve had been bent. Chris and I changed this yesterday, swapping it for one from an old head he had. It ground in nicely and now the car runs beautifully.

Thanks for all ideas and enthusiasm.

Finally the car is sorted!! Thanks to all who have proferred advice and particularly to Chris who also chipped in with some welcome expertise and sweat and toil!!

Lessons learned:

Standard valve compressors don't have the reach required to do the job on a Polo. The manual describes the use of a deep reach compressor and it means it! However, with a couple of inches of shelving support Heath Robinson triumphs again.

Valve stem oil seals can be a bugger to remove.

Finally, and probably not news to most, main dealer supplied parts are a rip off.