Nope, its only 030 af I'm afraid.

I'll have a look on etka on the pc later to see what you've got.

According to this link

http://etka.auto2.ru/epc/cat/vw/PO/1992/120/49/1251697/

You've got a camshaft from an AAU, which I think is a 1.05 litre engine out of a mk2f if I'm not mistaken. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

So today I found a cam in an injected 1.3L Golf II, but I can't seem to identify the part number. It actually has 3f as the last of the part number. I can't remember the rest of the number. I would venture to say 030, but the 3f part threw me off. Can anyone identify this part number or know if it's a decent cam?

Edited 23 July, 201115 yr by ca180

I just read this through, and it's definitely not 60NM of torque required for the bearing caps, (in english) its more like 10 lb/ft. I will have a look at the haynes later and confirm.

Dont know if I've missed it but will i need a vernier pulley on a 1.3 spi engine out my 1995 polo 6n?

I just read this through, and it's definitely not 60NM of torque required for the bearing caps, (in english) its more like 10 lb/ft. I will have a look at the haynes later and confirm.

Indeed, my sausage fingers hit both keys (6 & 5), supposed to be 6NM

My bad.

They're 6nm + 90 degrees

Depending on what engine!!

Haynes says 7NM for 3F

Oh right, 6n is +90 but doesn't say replace stud :s

Has anyone fitted a gt cam to a 6n yet?

Nope youll be the first person of all time to do that! Lol

Yes it's been done - on a standard pulley too. Just don't time it to standard marks

Thats the hag tho trying to find one and also trying to time it up.correctly. But it would be cheaper than paying 320 for an uprated cam for the 6n

definatly on the cards atm

You can use the mk3 cams. Around £180 new. Even use the 6n pulley, just time it 3 or 4 teeth off the standard marks

Hi Guys,

When swapping Mk2F cams (e.g. a GT cam into AAV or AAU), has anyone ever come up with emissions trouble at the next MOT (assuming you've reset your timing OK)? I just wondered if the existing ECU is happy handling the new setup, or whether it ends up with dirtier emissions? Lambda should keep the mixture OK in any case???

Also, I have a spare AAV head knocking around which I may fit to my AAU if ever I get a problem with its head. The AAV head has bigger valves on the intake. With AAV head/cam/valves would you expect any difficulties, or even a smidgeon of extra performance!? +1 BHP maybe?

Cheers,

Bread

So how do I get a new seal on the cam without taking the pulley off

You can't. You don't have to take the cam out but you do have to take the pulley off.

Lmfao !!! Just read how to change my cam and had to keep reading, fitting cam for payment in kind. Legend ! Haha

so a gt cam wont go on a 1043 aev lump then?

I've fitted a gt cam and head to my AAV and had it running 10/15 mins and it is tapping like hel!!! any advice?!

Cheers

Did you put new tappets in/ soak em in oil etc before putting it in? Correctly torqued the cam bridges?

Dont usually need new tappets unless they for some reason are mega worn!

Take them apart and clean them out then fill with oil

brillant thread, i have a hk engine, so will need to change the whole head, I've got one from a g-reg mk2 i scrapped, will the pullies be the same number of teath?

does anybody know which 1.3 or 1.4 engine had the biggest valves, cos if I'm changing the head might as well go for the biggest valve optionj,

will the 1.6 have bigger valves or is that pointless cos the 1.6 is a strocked engine any way.

I've also got a 1.4i golf engine from a j reg golf, I've used the electonic dizzy of this on the g-reg polo 1.3 before a parted it out.

which cam other than the gt is best to go for...........newman, kent.....etc any advice would be great before i spend my money.............cheers

If you're a idiot like me, and didn't set the timing before having it all off, does the alternator have to be loosened and auxiliary belt and wheel off to view the crank timing? I've had the head off and just trying to rectify my mistakes... Cheers

No, there should be a pointer (either plastic or metal depending on early/late spec) on the lower timing cover which will line up with a mark on the alternator pulley when you set the bottom end to TDC.