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Mk2 4wd 16vt Bready

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Good work there mate. Love it

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  • StinkyPete
    StinkyPete

    right best do a bit of an update no pictures though unfortunately as still no laptop currently building the car up for a full mock up and making sure everything fits and clearance for whats needed.

  • brycewilson
    brycewilson

    Any new pics of this?

  • harris.racing
    harris.racing

    Who taught you to weld?

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Not a fan of the dash at all but the bay looks bang tidy :thumbsup:

I quite like the dash, if it was sat in at an angle though it would look a million times better i think. Wouldnt be too hard to do surely?

  • 2 months later...

Any new pics of this?

  • Author

nah no new pics atm but it now has tax and mot :) just a pity the piston rings have gone on cylinders 1,2 and 4 and the compression is very varied i think 1 is getting 11.5, 2 is getting 12.5, 3 is getting 14 and 4 is getting 9 bar so after rebuilding the full top end of the engine i now have to strip the engine out and rebuild the bottom end too.

Thanks to mclovin i now have a spare afh block that is getting rebuilt, atm the crank is getting lightened, balanced and knife edged by a guy called HotGolf on the golfgti forum he is pretty amazing at this stuff and well known in the golf community for this and he also lightened and balanced my flywheel so i know what he can do and his prices are reasonable too.

next I'm ordering 1.8 20v turbo forged H beam conrods as i might as well forge the bottom end while its being rebuilt save me hassle for next year when phase 3 engine plans start.

i did want forged pistons but the only company I've found so far that can do them will only make a minimum of 3 sets at a atime and i cant afford 3 sets only 1 so as the forged pistons are standard sizings just forged (due to the height being low at 28mm on them anyways)

you cant alter the compression ratio by dishing the pistons or lowering the height. You have to run a decomp plate to lower compression on the afh engines so means i wont have to change anything else in the bottom end next year to charge it.

so i am just going use standard pistons with new rings and the forged conrods as they are the weak part in these engines.

i will be rebushing the forged conrods to the smaller 17mm for the standard piston gudgeon pin at work.

new oil seals crank and fly end will be fitted and new big end bearings and hopefully thrust washers will be fitted too.

once the new rings have been bought for the pistons and fitted they will be taken with the spare block to get the bores honed for a nice tight new fit

and i will rebuild the bottom end.

also going to be buying a stage 2 frame with outer g lader bushes and will fit the strongflex innner bushes at the same time.

then will be going to get a custom stainless exhaust made up from the decat back.

so quite a few plans in the coming weeks

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

right this week at work got quite a few things done so far i have surface grinded all of my 1.8 20vt conrods on both sides to reduce the thickness from 25mm to 20mm so they will fit in my afh just need to make new small end bushings for these now and press them in then they are complete and can be fitted.

also got my knife edged lightened and balanced crank back very impressed as its had a kilo taken off weight wise and will slice through the air and oil in the engine easier using less power.

started to look at getting my sump baffled to help stop oil starvation beings I'm using the shallow sump on my afh but while i was looking into thhis i also found out about windage trays so investigated this and made my self one at work out of sheet metal and it fits lovely. pictures to come as i have done it a different way. i then made templates out of cardboard for the sump baffles using a spare sump as cant take mine off the car atm. i then guillotined these out of more sheet steel to size took me all of 20 mins if that i then added 5mm holes spaced out into them to make sure i still get oil flow just not oil surges. i have made it so they sort of box the oil pickup in to hopefully give it a constant supply of oil. Sort of stole the idea for this from skodaboy i believe so thanks.

still have templates too so may think about reproducing these or getting a batch load laser cut depends whether anyone is interested so that people can baffle their own sumps.

also cleaned the engine block so instead of it being black inside with oil deposits it is now a nice gold colour just waiting for it to be picked up by the engine rebuilders who are going to hone it for me and fit my new piston rings.

depending on money to buy the rest of the parts for the bottom end rebuild i may have my forged and lightened bottom end built up in a week or two and hopefully fitted not long after so i will finally have my car back on the road and actually driving it.

just need to buy some bronze now to make the bushings for the small ends for the 17mm gudgeon pins on the standard pistons.

il get pictures asap just dont have a decent phone atm as its away for repair again shitty nokia n8s.

enjoy the news

Some great work going into this engine, should be a right beast. Have you thought about using avy pistons to drop the comp a little? Its still not going to be boost friendly but it would help some, maybe skim a little off the top to drop it the rest of the way?

Sorry if I wasn't very talkative when you collected the engine but I was hanging mate

  • Author

Hey mate just had the engine collected for honing today and they are fitting the new piston rings. and there isnt much you can do to drop the piston size on these as they are quite thin walled at the top and my plan to drop the comp ratio is to use a decomp plate that i will design myself and get laser cut just need to work out the thickness of ally plate i will need to use but its not getting charged til next year atm as it will be going on throttle bodies and i will be using megasquirt i thinks to control fueling at the minute i just want the car back on the road getting bored of getting lifts.

and its cool guessed you were hungover or something lol i was pretty nackered that weekend anyways.

cant wait to get my phone back so i can finally get some more pictures up of all my new bought and made goodies as I'm pretty proud.

also getting the phosphor bronze bar tomorrow so i can get the new bushes made for the small ends of the conrod and am also picking up the new main crank bearings and thrust washers from gsf tomorrow sometime. so as soon as the block is back from honing i can get rebuilding it.

  • 2 weeks later...

all i can say is wow lol i am really liking what you are doing, how hard was it to convert the rear arches to golf ones?? as have been thinking about it for a while as i like the shape of the breadvans just never really liked the rear arches

  • Author

its alot of effort you have to be really good with welding and fabrication or know some one who is as its alot of work and very time consuming on the rear arches.

more updates and pictures coming soon

  • Author

right mega update been saving up parts, making/altering parts and working on parts for a few weeks now and this is the weekend hopefully it all comes together.

so lots of pictures and maybe a bit of describing if i can be arsed lol.

Fitted poly and nylon bushes to my tcas

got my engine block back from honing

and my new piston rings fitted to the pistons

fitted new conrods to pistons

fitted new main bearings and then fitted lightened, balanced and knife edged crank

fitted pistons into block and fitted new big end bearings

windage tray needs altering as didnt realise conrods rise higher than crank counterbalance weights so just a little tweeking needed

sump baffle plates ready for welding in once i get my good sump off old engine block

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  • Author

conrods attached to pistons gawd the little snap rings were a bitch to get in took me and my dad to do it working together

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  • Author

i will be gettin up early in the morning to carry on getting this bottom end built up and the block sprayed need a little more oil on the bores so the fresh piston rings move easier. then going to get the driveshafts off my other engine so i can get that out of the car and start getting it stripped ready to fully build up the new forged block and get the car running properly

hope you guys enjoy alot more coming this weekend and will be receiving my new safety devices g40 cup car roll cage next week off of heg123 on here so glad i managed to get.

  • Author

also got my new wheels this week and got them wrapped in some brand new falkens.

they are

Rota Zero Plus in red and black 15x8 et 10 and have had them all fitted with 195/45/15 falken ze912 tyres

look amazing fitted with the anodised blue alloy short valves and will be fitting them to the car with blue motorsport bolts and matching locking wheel bolts.

cant attach pistures though have used all of my attachment space and cant get the image links of fb anymore cuz of the gay new layout so il see what i can do peeps

this is awesome!

Wheels sound great too, cant wait to see the pic's :D

Can't wait to see it on the Rota's :)

RUUUUDDDDEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • Author

should get them on tomorrow nearly finished putting it back together tonight and turned the engine over like 4 times lol then battery went dead so its now on charge over night then just gotta drop it off axle stands put new wheels on and a few other things then i can finally take it for a spin.

also got my 3mm spacers for the front today too hopefully give the inside of the front wheels a bit more clearance from the coilovers as they were very close

pics!?

  • 2 weeks later...

looks nice that engine and bay. top work on the custom parts;-) keep up the good work and i look forward to seeing this in the flesh

oh and the clearance issue on the shocks is a bitch isnt it! my version 2 setups have a flat edge on for wheel clearance. my porka wheels are a daft offset so i never noticed on mine

  • Author

thanks man cant wait for tomoz pretty pissed off atm as spent all day working on the car then went to get petrol ready for tomoz and clipped a pot hole or large stone or something and took a small chunk out of the rear passenger rim so pissed off as they are only 3 weeks old and its about 20mm wide should be able to get it repaired though you will see it tomoz but gives me more reason to buy a fifth then i can use this as a spare

looks awesome mate! been following this one for a while, gave me so much inspiration that I've got a valver ready and waiting to go into my 82 breadbin now :)

where did you get the conrods from? look proper built to take big power, id like some if they aint crazy expensive

  • Author

i bought them from max speeding rods themselves for £275 they are for a 1.8 20vt vw engine and rated to 600bhp or 9000rpm with the standard arp bolts or for extra dollars you can get upgraded bolts that are 1000 bhp or 12000 rpm lol. The only bad thing is they get sent out from bloody china but if you ask them they will put a value off $40 on them so $10 a rod and then you only get charged like £14 quid income duty on them so all in £290 delivered and duty charged. which i think is a bargain then you just have to do the machining which to you kiz would be a pisece of piss. But my afh shgould be ready for a bar of boost when i turbo it next year and add a decomp plate and vernier pulleys to drop the cr ratio. and going to rolling road this afternoon to get it started setting up and dyno'd.

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