the adjustment is 15 degrees either way most standard verniers do 12 degree either way so this gives a little extra adjustment which i will need for mine when i do it as i will have a decomp plate to adjust for as well :)

the adjustment is 15 degrees either way most standard verniers do 12 degree either way so this gives a little extra adjustment which i will need for mine when i do it as i will have a decomp plate to adjust for as well :)

Suits me too, looks extreme, exactly as requested

Plus, hasent fallen apart yet, which can only be a good thing hahah!

well rear floor finally cut out just needs neatening up

and thinking today i decided to bunk off the single TB and will use my ITB's for MOARRRRR POWERRRR and they match up near enough perfect with the manifold base plate I'm using

so it will be a turbo on throttle bodies engine build now

anyone know if i can run the 6 psi pressure switch in the plenum before the ITB's or will it have to be after the the throttle plates

plus using the ITB's sorts out the plenum design as it doesnt really matter where the boost runs into the plenum as such :)

So this week i neatened up the hole in the rear floor and cleaned up the areas I'm going to weld the cross braces for the shell and rear diff

then tonight i sorted out the cross braces getting to the right length to fit properly and welded them in :)

then put the rear diff underneath in the right sort of places just need to raise it into place and hold it there somehow to weld the mounts to the brace bars

whilst doing all this I've been sorting my turbo exhaust housing at work have chopped alot of excess off and cleaned it up

the crack in the wastegate exit

other crack in housing these will all be sorted properly :)

my modding for the exhaust housing

this 90 degree bend will have a v band clamp the the downpipe end once i make the v band bit out of mild steel it will take it for the 45mm i/d tube to the 2.5 inch v band clamp

i have bought a full stainless V band clamp from ebay for £10 posted :) i will use the clamp and one stainless V band side for the downpipe and as said above I'm replacing the other side stainless v band bit with the mild steel one thats getting welded to the exhaust housing

I'm using a V Band as they are alot easier to whipe on and off and are supposeldy alot better seal so il see

also bought a nice adjustable pressure regulator for the standard afh fuel rail can be adjusted from 3 to 5 bar so will do nicely to replace the standard 3 bar one and can be raised if the turbo needs more fuel pressure won it brand new for £9.99 posted :) bargain

also this made me laugh alot the other day and is like my car tbh

enjoy

I Enjoyed. now please update with piczorz of updates.

I have in the post above that you pleb lol

Are you gonna be doing any triangulating of the braces in the back?

I have in the post above that you pleb lol

Thats not an update, thats a shiney valve! we can all post pictures of shiney valves!

Ben what about the floor cross brace pictures and the turbo modding pictures above that :/

And max I will be adding to the braces and incorporating into the roll cage too so the chassis is all space framed sort of thing

Ben what about the floor cross brace pictures and the turbo modding pictures above that :/

And max I will be adding to the braces and incorporating into the roll cage too so the chassis is all space framed sort of thing

That didnt load before! Swear! Honest!

Looking forward to seeing this finished as you have done some real nice work so far.

Keep up the good work

Edited 13 September, 201214 yr by S Line Automotive

Awesome build. Good to see someone doing something different with a bready. You have some serious skills :-)

moreeeeee updaterzzzzzz

so been working hard friday night right into the evening from after work

cross braces added in to the cross braces lol to mount all the rear diff mounts

should be enough to hold the rear diff in place and will have it sitting as high as poss so the car can be as low as poss I'm aiming for sills practically on the floor :)

rear diff with mounts on

rear diff mounts i made out of box section

also sorted alot of the garage today and did some work on my clio but thats just my daily and isnt as exciting as the POLO

Who taught you to weld?

I'm a qualified welder actually just my welder at home plays up sometimes its only a hobby one and its more than good enough i go over the welds a second time usually to double up for extra strength

this is gonna be the most pikeyd up polo I've ever seen, but its gonna be fucking awesome hahaha

its not pikey what you chatting bout

its just a load of scaffolding with bits of cars bolted to it. its savage lol! love it

its not scaffolding lol thats proper strong steel tubing used for strength applications in the engineering and building industry the place i buy it from is at the end of the road from my work and they sort me out when i want stuff its 3mm thick wall

and your right it is tubing with a car chassis welded to it but its all part of the space frame and lots of strength dont want this chassis twisting with all the mega powaaaaaaarrrrr

Main hoop bottom brace welded in

the welding for Harris

REAR DIFFERENTIAL INNNNNNNN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Passenger driveshaft on ready work sorting out new suspension mounting

driveshaft level

diff sits really low may need to raise it somehow i have some ideas but i will see how it pans out

if the diff sits on the floor then the sills will be 2 inches off the floor thats how low it is

so if i ran with the diff an inch off the floor the sills will be 3 inches high its a compromise AWD or stupid low

I could maybe raise the diff about an inch at the most ideally without changing the whole mounting so i will just wait and see how this is for a start

thats all for now just waiting for my custom alloy topmounts to turn up so i can fabricate some steel top mounts to weld into the frame to mount the ally ones too then suspension can go on and i can start sorting the bottom tca's and strut bars looks like i may need to make a little subframe to mount these too for extra strength

also received my 1.5mm decomp plate today in the post so I'm slowing getting everything together and ready for the turbo conversion

more updates to come this weekend

Edited 17 September, 201213 yr by StinkyPete

Should of mocked it all up on the diff, set the height then tacked it, removed diff and welded in properly That way you could of set the diff height :p Pikey arse hahahah.

No it's not that it's there isnt a lot of ways I could mount it And the mountings in the car are fine it's the frame on the diff and the fact I can't really have the diff in the car so it has to be under the floor pan so there is limited space anyways

I have a way to raise it about an inch but then that will be at the highest I can have it mounted its not how I've done it that's the problem it's just how it is as the diff is quite thick/high 25-30mm so it's chunkier than the petrol tank and because it can't be solid mounted I have to fit the mounts inbetween it and the chassis too

What was stopping u from welding the bars higher up? If you are doing all this anyway it wouldnt hurt to modify the floorpan

No it's not that it's there isnt a lot of ways I could mount it And the mountings in the car are fine it's the frame on the diff and the fact I can't really have the diff in the car so it has to be under the floor pan so there is limited space anyways

I have a way to raise it about an inch but then that will be at the highest I can have it mounted its not how I've done it that's the problem it's just how it is as the diff is quite thick/high 25-30mm so it's chunkier than the petrol tank and because it can't be solid mounted I have to fit the mounts inbetween it and the chassis too

what was stopping you coming down from the turrets so the weight is transfered that way rather than just up in the middle with no spreader plates like it is or building a:

\ ___ /

/-----\ shape frame from the cage to turret mounts down and legs up or simple just a box section with a step or just a simple /--------\ welded intop of the chassis legs instead of ______ from side to side inbetween....

Also... that position isent ride height is it? so driveshafts will no longer be level, should of got it all mocked at ride height before ''welding'' it in. I'd personally sort that welder too..... :-D

Edited 18 September, 201213 yr by POLOMON