i dont weld stainless i am going back to college in september evening classes to do my level 2 ally tig and level 2 mig i know the instructor and i was just going to do mig which he knows I'm more than capable off but he said dont just waste the money on that do the ally tig first as i would love to learn that and then he will squeeze me through the mig level 2 also

so hopefully it will be win win and £280 well spent :)

oh and log type will do for now I'm only looking at 1 bar of boost 15 psi and looking for 200 bhp as the drive train e.g. syncro box wont handle much more than that from what I've heard

Its not all about peak power, just throttle response and getting it spooled up quickly!

No worries then dude.

i can sort that afterwards though cant i my thinking is to get the engine all up and running on boost for a start properly and making sure it runs healthily and that the 4wd all runs well

With your skills, i wouldn't hinder it with a log type. Get welding up a proper split pulse runner type, get plenty of stainless pipe, bends etc.

Stainless isn't a good material for a turbo manifold Max as it has a tendency to crack under high temps.

With your skills, i wouldn't hinder it with a log type. Get welding up a proper split pulse runner type, get plenty of stainless pipe, bends etc.

Stainless isn't a good material for a turbo manifold Max as it has a tendency to crack under high temps.

Bullshit! It might crack at the welds if you've done a shit job!

you are a little misguided Simon, it has a higher risk of cracking then cast- but this doesnt mean it is not a good material to make a manifold from. The same is to be said about the quality of welding- it will have a higher chance of cracking if the welding is poor, but the best welder in the world will still have a problem with cracking if the material is of poor quality or the design is poor where areas are loaded higher then other and cause the metal to twist which again will come back to the material where creep will cause cracks. ( a metal with a larger grain size will help stop reduce creep risks) and then its back to the welder again, as he can himself without realising put residual stresses in the material from the welding- even though the weld is spot on- it can fail away from the join.

was it you after an uprated clutch?

http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=459077

yes it was thanks Kiz i was talking to Guy about it in his charged build thread

I'm not on ed38 so cant look at it may join up later

reason I'm having trouble is all the adds on ebay just put a general picture up which is of the clutches that bolt to the fly wheel i need the one where the pressure plate bolts to the crank and the fly then blots to the plate so its a lottle off putting but when I'm nearer the time of buying il be asking the sellers to makesure its the right clutch kit I've seen a nice stage 3 kit for around £320

Edited 5 August, 201214 yr by StinkyPete

Ben some pics for you

il do a proper update for this for the stuff I've done this week tomorrow night lots of goodies and lots of pictures to go with them :)

Muahahahah! Cheers mate, look forward to polishing it

id put some fatter bolts on there if i were you. looks cool though

What's with the million holes lol? Do that on a dividing head then?

Saves weight and yep on a dividing head Need to do my afh ones soon

Lol, 10 grams? It spin pretty true then? Did you machine the inner face where it binds on the adjustment plate?

I'd also do as eric says and get some bigger washers on there, the contact area is so small by the looks of it which will lead to deformation of the aluminum underneath the bolts, or worse it might slip!

Sorry to harp on, but on your AFH set, instead of tapping the OEM pulley, use through holes and have nuts on the back, after a few adjustments me and nick found the steel threads pulley out.

Edited 9 August, 201214 yr by MaxGT

All above points Pete has already addressed or mentioned. The bolts and washers are in there are for demo purposes and will be replaced as already discussed. But cheers for the pointers Max.

The holes are exactly as I requested, looks abit differant and its as I wanted no real reason other than czzzz

Why slots so big?

My criteria was as different and as extreme as possible, ala pictures.

I mean diameter not length, seems silly having slots so wide then having to use big washers

Unless you have bolts with a large shoulder

Ahh I see sorry, I have a specific type of washers planned (or 6 different washers) and with small cut outs it wouldn't look right

Countersunk bolts and washers?

All above points Pete has already addressed or mentioned. The bolts and washers are in there are for demo purposes and will be replaced as already discussed. But cheers for the pointers Max.

The holes are exactly as I requested, looks abit differant and its as I wanted no real reason other than czzzz

My criteria was as different and as extreme as possible, ala pictures.

Ahh I see sorry, I have a specific type of washers planned (or 6 different washers) and with small cut outs it wouldn't look right

Wa?

The slots are abit wide yes but only on the inner side as the bolt is right up against the outer diameter and with larger washers it will be fine

About the thru holes with nuts the other side tbh I wouldn't trust that with the speed these things spin if a nut were to come loose it could fuck all the belt and pulleys up

How come the threads stripped on yours and why size bolts did you use

Pictures later of my new turbo manifold :)

They probably stripped because there's not much meat on the actual pulley.

S'pose you could use nylocs on the back to hold them, but adjustment would be rough because you have to get to the nuts too.

What about welding nuts on?

welding nuts on sounds like a pretty good idea to me!

The steel that the pulleys are made of is crap, not as bad as the billet alloy some of the OEM's use though!

I've used nylocs or locktite, won't come off at all then.

After a few adjustments and torquing the bolts up to something acceptable, the threads start to weaken and eventually pull.

At first i used M6 bolts with threaded holes in the pulley, now moved to M5 with nuts on the back, can do it up as tight as you want then, and nothing gets damaged. Its all about the contact area between the washer and alloy adjustment plate too, too little and it deforms both parts.