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Mk2 4wd 16vt Bready

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welding nuts on sounds like a pretty good idea to me!

Wouldn't wanna do that, the steel is awful, would just break off!

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  • StinkyPete
    StinkyPete

    right best do a bit of an update no pictures though unfortunately as still no laptop currently building the car up for a full mock up and making sure everything fits and clearance for whats needed.

  • brycewilson
    brycewilson

    Any new pics of this?

  • harris.racing
    harris.racing

    Who taught you to weld?

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Chemical metal then.

Nylocs! like you said. Or locktite, works fine.

  • Author

updateee timeeee :)

so started by making the flange for the turbo manifold i used 20mm thick mild steel plate so it wouldnt warp while welding and i could skim the back face after welding

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then bought two 90 degree pipe elbows 40mm o/d and some 40mm o/d tube and cut to the right size

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i welded it like that keeping it all even and level

then cut two short pieces that were notched at one end and welded them in the right place onto the first part

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cleaned up the flange face ready for welding

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then milled the holes through the center tubes so it was all linked and flowing

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i then milled the hole on the top of it for the exit

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I then machined the engine side of the flange to port match and flow better into the manifold once i had done this i realised i would be skimming it all done after lol blond moment but i will redo this once it is skimmed down

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nice dude!

  • Author

finished manifold

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Valver engine with turbo manifold :)

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  • Author

Digifant G40 ECU ready to turbo my valver lump :)

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Also fully stripped my syncro box this week and removed all old bearings as they were all fubarred and some were a bitch to remove pullers just wouldnt do it luckily we can hard turn at work which is where you machine turn hardened steel not alot of places do this :) glad we do as it meant we could machine off all the stuck on bearing races

i then fitted all new bearings which I'm glad it was a golf box as an 020 rebuild kit cost me £77 posted with all name brand bearings the only problem is was because its not a standard 020 its a syncro 020 one of the diff bearings is different so the standard one wouldnt fit on one side but luckily i found the right bearing for £13 posted.

so for £90 i have fully rebuilt all the main bearing is the gearbox and all new seals and gaskets and bushes. what a bargain so much cheaper than a polo box as just the two diff bearings in my polo box cost me £35

I will be putting the gbox all back together tomorrow hopefully all goes well

end of update

Good progress man!

What you doing in terms of the exhaust manifold to tidy it up? Black VHT paint or something similar?

  • Author

Yeah il clean up the welds a little and paint it some colour of vht that will go with the car

Good good :) slightly involved in a boosted 4wd project myself but bit more extreme but easier as using a synchro in the first place but using the haldex setup instead as synchro is weak and we're aiming for 400+ hp lol.

  • Author

well had a think tonight and dont think I'm going to go with the separate oil system for the turbo as i dont think it would be beneficial enough pricewise for this project as its only going to be running about a bar of boost and about 200 bhp so i have another plan to hopefully help but will be running it off the engine oil feed will be impressive though hopefully and carrying on a theme i already have

rebuilt half the syncro box back up tonight will carry on with this during the week after work

more updates and pictures to come soon

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Might be of some help pete.....

Manifold looks awesome!!

Nice :) Thought about getting the manifold ceramic coated? Not too expensive and it'll never burn or flake off!

Pete, whats the radiator you used? The top fill one?

  • Author

what my alloy one its a honda civic one

and i shall try do a better update this week too as i have stripped the transfer box now and bought new bearings and seals for it coming to a cost of £29 with i think is amazing

also need to finish getting the gearbox rebuilt back up and finish cutting the rear floor pan out now that i have finally started walking again only taken 10 weeks :( but atleast I'm on the mend now

Nice, the top fill one right?

Where you get it from? and how much?

  • Author

both the ones I've had were top fill my first one was a mk1 golf one but the one i have now the full alloy one is a honda civic one and got it from the Ebay was about £100 needs quite a bit of bay modification to fit though i had to cut away my whole bottom slam panel as this rad is about 3-4 inches too tall

and you will need full custom hosing with it too

Edited by StinkyPete

  • Author

yeah thats the Civic one as you can see on that page all of the front bottom cross member was cutout and i made a strenghtening bar that bolted back in in its place about 3 inches lower to fit the rad as it was alot taller but gives more clearance for a turbo/charger and when i space frame my front end i will move it over alot more so it will be clearer of the turbo and exhaust

Cool, cheers.

The front end of mine will be getting a full re-model anyway, to fit the IC and radiator, oil cooler etc

Nice one :thumbsup:

Honda civic iirc

Pete this looks really promising as usual, a real engineering job. Good to see your back on your feet to

  • Author

right little update got a few more things happening

first of all Polomons pulley all finished he now has it fitted to his G

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Turbo exhaust housing bolted to mani

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this will be getting modified as the housing is cracked inside and the downpipe flange sits at a funny angle but i have a plan see below

also stripped the transfer box

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and as said above all new bearings and seals are now here ready to be installed when i have abit of spare time at work to use the press to remove the old cups and install the new ones

i will be making an inlet manifold/plenum using part of the original manifold (mainly using this for the injector seats and spacing.

here are two plans i have i know design 2 would be better but I'm lacking space so i believe i will go with design 1 as it is easier for me to make but if anyone can see any major flaws please advise and i will be putting a topic up in the engine section too

the two designs

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design 1

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design 2

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for the actual plenum chamber i need double the engine cc in volme so 1.4 x 2 = 2.8 litres well I'm aiming for 3 litres or slightly over as bigger is better than smaller

so i have ordered so 5" diameter ally tube 1/4" wall 500mm long has cost me just under £40 but making one from scratch is easier than spending £35 on a 20vt inlet manifold and doing alot of modifying to it

ally tube

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also started modifying my turbo exhaust housing as it is cracked so i thought i would fix it and at the same time as usual make it better because i can and RACECAR ofcourse

housing

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plus i dont like the downpipe flange so I'm going to change it to the smaller K03 3 bolt flange rather than the 4 bolt massive flange

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the wastegate was all cracked inside so i have decided to get rid of the internal one i will take this out of the downpipe and reroute it so i can run an external wastegate which are alot better safety wise over the internal wastegate and can be tweaked and setup easier

modifying the housing

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have only started this so far but will carry on next week during lunch times while also making my inlet parts

cracks in turbo exhaust housing :(

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i have also bought a complete new rotor for the turbo which is an upgrade item as it has more fins on the compressor side to create more boost so will be able to get more than the 15 psi i want to run if needed :)

also got back in the rear of the car tonight and carried on cutting the rear floor out got some done and will carry on over the weekend and hopefully get most of it cut out so i can finally get the rear diff in place :)

more updates to come

Winner, pulley looks great on thanks alot Pete :-)

Good your going at her with the same enthusiasm after the leg injuries :-)

Vernier does look nice. Whats the adjustment on that? looks about 2 teeth either direction

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