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Mk2 4wd 16vt Bready

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  • Author

It will be less than 850kgs when I'm finished

So why would it be slower then when I had carbs it will still be less weight for the engine to pull than a 6n that the engine originally came from

And Nige I know SVA's aren't cheap but it may need an IVA instead depends what they say

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  • StinkyPete
    StinkyPete

    right best do a bit of an update no pictures though unfortunately as still no laptop currently building the car up for a full mock up and making sure everything fits and clearance for whats needed.

  • brycewilson
    brycewilson

    Any new pics of this?

  • harris.racing
    harris.racing

    Who taught you to weld?

Posted Images

I'd feel for you tbh if the first time you tried to launch it and it just ripped the diff and everything straight off it's mounts!

  • Author

Why would it though

Do you not think I know what I'm doing or something as you keep doubting everything I'm doing

Dunno, haven't seen anyone weld lots of tube into a mk2 breadvan before.

Also you still using air for this? But want good handling? What struts/bags are you using? I know about tuning air suspension, quite good as you can make progressive springs instead of a static rate like most coil spring

  • Author

It will be static for a start and then il decide on the air as I'm not 100% yet on whether to do it

And the bags will be what Kiz used on the front of his il be doing the same making them fit on the coilies for extra adjustability

And nearer crimbo I am going to try and get an industrial mig welder to replace my hobby mig :) its just they are very expensive £450 plus so I need to get funds together for one and il also be purchasing a tig welder too ;)

no need to get an industrial welder pete, i bought this one recently and it's absolutely bob on, easiy man enough for what you would need http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251144800286?ssP...984.m1497.l2649

i did a bit of research on the mig forums and they rave about how good these are for what they are so thought i'd take their word for it and have a punt and i'm in no way disappointed. it really is like night and day compared to my old snap on 130 turbo mig

i don't want to come across as being a dick or like i think i'm some kind of expert or owt cause i'm not, but i would hold up on the structural welding until you have a welder that can do a good job of it. it's pointless going over it twice because if it hasn't penetrated enough the first time round it certainly won't penetrate it the second time round with a layer of poor weld between the metal and the fresh weld your laying down. it may sound dramatic but your risking your life on those welds, and this is exactly the reason i didn't weld my own steering arms on to my coilies, because i knew my welder wasn't man enough to do a job i would feel safe risking my life on

a wise man once told me "a good tig weld is stronger than a good mig weld, but a shit mig weld is a lot stronger than a shit tig weld, and its easy to make a shit tig weld look good". i'd rather stick with mig cause at least i will know when it's a shit weld :lol:

with what i use my welder for there's no reason to tig anyway, the mig is man enough for any metal i'll ever need to melt together :thumbsup:

Edited by Mclovin

I love mig

  • Author

It's not really welding shit it just plays up sometimes and it annoys me when its not working perfectly but it's definately penetrating enough and I don't just go over shit welds again I clean them back properly first so it's basically back to the start to do a decent weld

The problem is also access sometimes there's not a great deal of it in the back of the car or underneath as I'm sure your aware so sometimes the welds look a little shitty or abit splattery if doing them upwards from underneath

Il have a look at them welded then Guy and is that the one you won if so that's a good price

Edited by StinkyPete

yeah that.s the one i won and it's virtually new

welding upwards is a pain in the arse, even more so when your outside and the car is barely high enough to fit your head under with the mask on :lol:

Aye thats quite a good theory, a shit TIG weld is very weak, usually consists of next to no filler material,

TIG everytime for me though!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

quick update quite a bit done

I've altered the diff mounting so it now sits 60mm higher

from this IMG_0738.jpg

to this

IMG_0750.jpg

side by side to compare height difference

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eccentric alloy top mounts in process of being made

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just need to drill the bolt holes in them

and also finish making the mounting cups to be welded into the car/cage

new compression struts instead of an arb at the rear

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IMG_0758.jpg

bottom ball joint adapters made from Stainless to convert the mk1/2 escort adjustable tcas to polo/mk1 golf fitment

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IMG_0761.jpg

IMG_0763.jpg

IMG_0770.jpg

converting from this

IMG_0773.jpg

to this

IMG_0774.jpg

my rear wishbone conversion will also be doing this on the front for fully adjustable 4 wheel tracking

IMG_0784.jpg

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IMG_0786.jpg

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thats all for now more next week :)

Looks good dude,

So the compression strut is replacing the ARB like it would on a stage 3 subframe?

You get the struts from rallydesign? Love that place!

The struts are for the back arent they? Allowing fully independent rear suspension

The struts are for the back arent they? Allowing fully independent rear suspension

Yeah, that's what i meant.

The original design will have used an ARB, but looks like pete is replacing it with a TCA...

  • Author

Well I'm running a front setup on the back so it would have needed an arb but I'm using these instead like I will also on the front when I get to it and yep same things as used on a stage 3 subframe Max but not from rally design they are dear same ones but from a different rally shop through eBay ;)

I like the look of so many of them bits! but you knew this..... Good luck pete!

p.s. car passed MOT no advisories, w00p! On with going lower now so as soon as i can get them lower arm spacer measurements i'll text them you ;)

So are you welding all the mounts onto the rear space frame then for the suspension set-up?

  • Author

The mounts will be welded to the chassis and strengthened onto the rear frame

Just noticed the love letter from your mum on the table.... :lol:

Also to add, What price would we be looking for a lower arm conversion to run stock arb dude, what has that setup cost you? :-)

  • Author

The letter from my mum was to my little bro lol to makesure he didn't forget something

And I shall text you about this lower arm conversion although I may start selling them

  • Author

updaterz lots of progress

turbo exhaust housing modding

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IMG_0824.jpg

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Individual Throttle bodies Inlet manifold started welding will be finished next wednesday hopefully

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Chassis mounting for rear suspension top mount

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IMG_0845.jpg

Eccentric Topmount 10mm eccentric

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top mount in cup/mount

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IMG_0848.jpg

top mount and chassis mount drilled and bolted together

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IMG_0860.jpg

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Spherical Bearing installed

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IMG_0866.jpg

topmount and chassis mount on coilover

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IMG_0863.jpg

standard front top mount against my custom one

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Bad driveshaft angles for uber lows (not general driving)

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More updates to come as i am currently machining the parts for my plenum chamber and also starting to make my vernier sprockets now material has arrived

once these are done i can rebuild the engine with the decomp plate and new headgasket ready for BOOST finally then thats another thing sorted

got lots of stuff going on atm also finally finishing off rebuilding the syncro box once i can drill some holes in a plate

also need to finish making the other side chassis mount as the top mount is finished and need to tweak the cup of the top mount thats done as it needs boring out slightly to give room for the bolts

lots going on

enjoy

  • Author

oh yeah also strenghtened all the new diff mounting from raising the mounts into the frame so that is all properly bolted in place now so i can fully finish doing the rear suspension now :) no pictures of this though as i forgots

like.

use the second set of injector holes for nos! lol

Nice bit of machining work there!,

Definetly the best "Engineering project" on here by a long mile. Hope as much effort goes into the bodywork though!

Are you sure the turbo-housing will be able to stand up against the heat cycles though?

The cast housing, filler material and pipe will all have different expansion and contraction characteristics, so cracking may be a problem in the long run!?

  • Author

As long as it lasts a year Max il be happy as tbh the exhaust housing was basically scrap from all the cracks in it so I have salvaged it and hopefully made it better of course ;)

If it comes to it il make a billet exhaust housing next year or maybe just upgrade turbo to a better one for MOARRR power lol

And thanks for the nice comments appreciate them guys :D

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