dont worry Max the inner bolts will be fine bolted into the pulley as once they are in thats it no need to remove

and i have sorted the outer bolt possible problem you will see when they are finished

and yeah Nick i ran out of room i just labelled them so i know which is which not that it matters lol

The problem is the material in the threads starts to yield as you tighten them up, which allows them to come loose

Make sure there's plenty of locktite and i'm sure they'll be fine though.

The outer bolts won't be bolting into the pulley only going through it as I took into account what you said ages ago and as my timing may get altered a lot during set up I didn't want the constant undoing and tightening to strip the threads so I came up with a solution which should be a lot better than just nuts on the other side

Edited 5 November, 201213 yr by StinkyPete

maybe i should aim for this just in my polo not a mk2 golf

OMFG this thing is powerful

Thats something else...

Yeah iv spent a lot of YouTube time watching that kinda shit haha

friday night i stripped the expanding foam from the inner rear quarters

before

after

saturday morning i went to a Draper Ex Demo Sale got some bargains

Draper 1 tonne engine crane Basically Brand New never used £120

a 5 piece Air tool Kit for £20 instead of £55

and a 24 litre air receiver to double my compressors capacity for £66

saturday afternoon i got back on with the car finishing shaping the rest of the rear braces then welded them all in

then added some little brace supports from the main hoop to the rear chassis legs just as extra support

saturday evening after welding i decided to start getting rid of the heavy soundproofing on the floor

started like this

ended like this

once it was all basically removed i realised how flimsy and flexible the floor really is and its alot more contoured than it looks when it has the soundproofing mat on and i though this could cause alot of trouble when i cut out the tranny tunner to put the bigger one in as that will take alot more of the strength away and trying to match up the tunnel sheet to the floor would be alot of hassle

so i decided to cut out the standard floor and weld in some flat sheet steel and barce it for strength

i trialled the rear floor and tunnel brace in place

so this morning i cut out my floor :)

rear half of floor out

most of floor out

more to come this week

and my new carbide tipped lathe tools have arrived :)

Is this going to be road legal? and do you need to have your work checked by vosa or anything?

regards

it will be road legal yes and it will be having an SVA test

Good progress dude - you going for fibreglass panels or?

you should have just plonked a fiberglass breadvan looking shell on a kit car

joking aside theres lots of good work being put into this!

whats it going to look like when your done then? keeping it red? what wheels? etc...

yeah Nick I'm going to be looking at fibreglass panels for sure to get rid of alot of excess weight just depends on the cost really and how the arches are on the front wings so possible panels would be bonnet, front wider wings, doors and then also polycarb windows to match

I shall be keeping it red yeah Jordan not sure whether to stay mars red or go for a candy cherry red that I've always wanted and wheels will be the rota zeros i already have and i may get some lightweight wheels with slicks for the drag strip and track

Love this build, wish i could work a lathe. Just made a fibre glass bonnet for my self, well i made the mould friday before i left work then made the product from it today, just got to see what it looks like when i get there in the morning. Id never done it before, i just watched some videos on youtube and had a go at it. Ill be adding some pics of it to my build thread when i get it home if you want to have a look what its like. Very easy process though but also very messy.

On these the wings and bonnet are already so light, its not worth the money to get them made from compsites

Youd be better off getting composite doors, cant beleive how much they weigh on the 2F

The boot is pretty light too, but probably is worth getting one in glass if your serious about saving weight.

Have a look at unprung and sprung weights.

deffo need berg cup arches pete.

deffo need berg cup arches pete.

Good call

I'm going wider and better than berg cup arches well I think anyway dunno how much further out the wheel will sit I think probs 100mm further out either side roughly and yeah Max I deffo wanna do doors really and on the boot I may just remove most of the inner skin and I've already started stripping the bonnet down for weight reduction

I know we're talking finishing touches here, but when it's on its way back together do you think you could weld in some rear window blanks and make it a van? (this may have been covered already)

1: Vans are very cool indeed

2: It will hide the framework in the rear

3: No one will expect a Four wheel drive 20valve turbo if it's a van

Thats also a good call lol

What was the foam for then?

As in the foam in the rear quarters Max. It was soundproofing more than anything tbh

I was going to go for the van look but with flush side windows like that red 6N and as you can see I already did the boot lid but I'm going to get a new one and poly window it instead

But tbh I don't want to hide all the work and its not going to be my daily so no reason to hide anything really

I would love it to be a Van just to surprise people

Is all the bracing getting painted then pete?

Yep it will be getting a full bare metal spray job but after the SVA test so they can't say I've tried to hide anything and will be able to see it all :)

more work

rear tunnel/floor brace tacked in place

right next job is to sort out the rear tcas and compression struts to get them fitted in the correct places so i took an idea from Phataz (Arun) which are the hub stands and made my own

i took the diameter of one of my 15inch rims with 195/45/15 tyres on which was 21 inches and halved it 10.5" so this is the height i need to have the center of the hub off the floor to replicate it being on my wheels

i had some old solid brake discs lying around so I've used them and and made these

these are so i can get the back end off the axle stands and will make the car as if its sitting on proper wheels but will give me shit loads of access in the wheel arch area and make it so i can fit the tcas and compression struts where they will be sitting when I'm driving the car meaning i can set them at alot better angles etc.

back side view of rear hub

where the hub face will roughly sit which is roughly 4 inches at least wider than standard and with my 4 inches of dish on my rims meaning my car will be 8 inches wider either side there abouts

BEASTY

Not really sure on the point of half of those tubes - but hey each to there own! a lot of progress made non the less.

quick note - this

is dangerous - dont use it, seen it done before and lets just say it didnt end well. they are not supposed to be load bearing and only have strength in 1 plane - so if you rock the car with this on you will find the base will just snap off the disc like breaking a biscuit in half, i wouldnt want you under the car if that happens.

dont think I'm being an arsehole pointing it out - i have good intentions in mind not just being a dick