Does it use the same heater as normal? Yeah send us a pic. I may be interested!

Yeah it uses sae heater as normal but I drilled some holes in mine to attach it to the bracket but that doesn't affect it working at all and the bracket mounts to standard bits in the car

That sounds ideal mate!! Aslong as it all still works and fits behind the dash as normal. Its a big old fucker so must take a fair bit of work

Yeah it fits alright and wasn't too much work tbh

The brackets abit custom so to say lol but it does the job perfectly

so some progress has been made and some new parts have been purchased :)

New Forged Low Comp GTI Pistons give a CR of 8:1 roughly

then started stripping my old engine ready to build my new one up

windage tray

baffled sump soon to have the turbo return welded on

my lightened, balanced and Knife edged crank

my forged 1.8 20vt H beam conrods custom modified to fit the AFH engine

little end re bush with internal oil groove for better lubrication

fitting the forged pistons to the forged conrods

encountered a problem here the AFH uses piston guided rods whereas the AVY uses Crank guided rods supposedly so the piston opening was 21.78mm whereas my rods were modified to be 20.00mm wide :( oh well so i made myself some phosphor bronze 0.85mm spacer bushes

problem SORTED :)

Lovely stuff Pete. Can't beat photos of shiny engine bits!

got back onto the rear of the car yesterday and today

so needed to remove the rear chassis rails as I'm going the whole hog may aswell spaceframe the full rear floor too and fully tie it all in

wanted to tidy up all the bottom bits of the rear sills and get rid of the old rusty jacking points as I've made new ones

glad i am cutting out the rear chassis rails as the rust I'm starting to find is horrendous especially around the rear beam jacking points

its that bad that if i wasnt doing all this then the shell would be destined for the scrappers really

so people please check the underneaths of your cars especially around the filler neck

on these bits I'm removing in the next pics i didnt even need to drill the spot welds the rust just caused the joins to break apart with a few blows of the hammer :0

thats all so far will be doing some more tidying up this week then start fitting the new rear chassis rails to then re mount the Rear differential at least 3 inches higher equalling more lows if i decide to

so got a bit more progress done this week

finally got the new rear chassis rails in place these are 3.5 inches higher than that standard ones to bring the rear diff 3.5 inches higher than it was before giving me alot more ground clearance for more lows if i chose

more bloody rust soon to disappear though

then got the cross braces and diff mount in place and welded in

now not a lot left to finish the major bits of the rear just more bracing to add for strengthening then literally tidying up

then i can get back on to the front and the space framing will be done and il be onto engine fitting and bodywork

more updates

so i wanted to make my ITB manifold on the CNC machine but its busy his week so I'm gunna be a BOSS and manual machine the whole thing. Why you may ask

well the answer is because i can

so its starting as a billet block like this 40mm thick by 80mm wide

i then drilled all the bolt holes for bolting it to the head and drilled the centres for the throttle body side 20mm deep into the 40mm thick block

I then turned it over and machined the afh head flange holes into it

The old manifold i made and the new one as it stands atm

the throttle bodi

es

just to add the Billet block started at 1.8kg weight and i will measure it again once its finished to see the difference but it should be well under a kilo

then I've also started modifying my BCB block

heres the extra castings for the oil jets at the top left

block on the Bridgeport milling machine

machining the casting flat

drilling the flats for the bolt

all done holes just need tapping M10x1.5

also my M11x1.5 Tap set turned up today perfect timing as I'm drilling out the Head bolt holes from M9 tomorrow for the AFH head

and My new KOLBENSCHMIDT main bearings and thrust washers arrived today :)

more to come this week people

Edited 26 February, 201313 yr by StinkyPete

Looking good! Gotta love the old manual bridge ports

i love manual machining so much more fun than CNC anyday

Looking good Pete were did you get the Bearings and thrust washers gotta link??

Are you going to check the direction of squirt by pressurizing the oil gallery..??

Edited 26 February, 201313 yr by Mk2 olop

so you have essentially body dropped this now Pete? will be insane to see this on the road once finished!

Love a Bridgeport.

Be careful with your prop angles mate, I'm sure you've read about it though and know what I mean.

prop will be made as straight as possible plus I'm going to be running a 3 piece one with a fixed middle part mounted to chassis via bearings with cv joints either end

also finished drilling and tapping the block from M9 to M11 head bolts today

We have to set our props on vehicles on angles to load them slightly. It's weird. If they were dead straight they tend to fuck up, god knows why.

they wont be dead straight i am aiming for as straight as possible but you know how it is that will never happen plus the front section will move with the engine and the back part may be slightly angled downwards towards the tunnel

Yeah man for sure, CV joints ok to use?

thats what they run on them anyways Nick I'm using a 4motion prop but modified and shortened

they are usually 2 piece with 1 mount and 1 CV joint

but I'm making a 3 piece one out of two full 4motion propshafts you will see when i properly get round to doing it

it will allow for any misalignment and give either end movement and also keep a solid mounted part to keep it all nice and snug within the underneath of the body

You at UD Pete?

Fair enough, I was chatting to someone recently and had used CV joints and due to the constant angle as Apposed to moving through steering/suspension travel they failed in a VERY short time frame due to causing hot spots as just constantly runs on the same part of the joint like

well these run CVs as standard so should be fine

and maybe Toby not sure yet why

i know its coming up cant remember when though lol

March 10th bro

I'll grab sump if its done, save postage.

yeah i will let you know if I'm going for sure mate and it will be done by then easily

it will be done next week

would have been this week but been mega busy as you can see

Oooft, love the oil jet machining, looks just like on the AVY (?) blocks. Would you consider doing mine? Price?