The driver of that GT isn't exactly dead,thanks to the crumple zone doing its job. Question is,would he be had he put a fuel cell in there..?

Anyway,I'm not here to hamper your progress,that happens anyway when building a car like this! And it does look promising

Thanks mikey i do understand your concern and tbh it does concern me and i will be thinking of ways to prevent this with structural reinforcement and i may add a cover to the tray to encase it i will see what i can do i have another mod for the interior as I'm trying to clear all the low object from under the car out of the way.

brake lines - I am getting a full SS Braided brakeline system and these will be running through the car as i will also be adding a hydro handbrake that i will modify and fit the mech cables to so it is my only handbrake but will be mot passable and will have a bias valve fitted just in front of it for easy alteration.

Fuel lines - I am going to be using SS braided teflon lined fuel hose with full AN6 fittings and this will run through the car also to stop damage from underneath the car.

Now the only other two low things under the car are:

The Standard fuel tank which is obviously being removed due to me fitting the new alloy fuel cell in the boot.

And the exhaust - My plan with this as its only around 2 inches off the floor and scrapes on shit bumps (i am 80 front 60 rear roughly phil j kit)so as on my new afh i will be fitting a ss manifold i am going to get a straight through s#custom pipe bent and instead of taking this under the rear beam i am going to chop into where the rear seats used to be and weld some sheet metal into place to create a tunnel over the rear beam with enough room for the ss bore exhause pipe to clear in easily and high enough for the beam to sit at its highest and the exhauset pipe still clear.

any one have any considerations for me to think about on this one and then basically the lowest part under my car will be the sills and anything in the engine bay so when i finally fit the mk1 golf coilover conversion i plan to do i will be able to go stupidly low (just at shows as its my daily car and will be roughly the same as the 80-60 kit for general use).

What are peoples advise or views and opinions on this.

also quick update while I'm here as you can see i have welded up my boot and no longer have any wires running into it as i didnt want that and i have modified the boot lock so the locking mech is on the boot chassis lip and the catch pin is now on the boot door and have wired up a boot popper solenoid to so i can pop my boot via my remote central locking

this weekend i plan to weld up some new seat frames for the buckets but do them properly as the ones I'm running atm are not up to my standard.

And also strengthen the new gt rear beam finally and weld on my stub axle forward plates and strengthen these even though they only over hang by about 20 to 25mm just want to be on the safe side and may also remove my camber shims as because I'm 60-80mm down on the rear not 100% sure what i am but its very low the rear beam sits angled up and this means the camber plates are also adding toe in to the rear wheels atm so i may look twisted them to the angle the rear beam sits at for genral driving to correct this or I'm looking at getting some 5mm rear stub axle spacers working out the angle the rear beam sits angled up and machining the faces of the spacers at this angle at a 2 degree angle on the face for camber so i no longer have toe in when the car is lowered with camber. If you catch my drift.

also need to fit my new G lader rear beam bushes and then the weekend after this i shall fit the new rear beam and also going to look at my rear disc conversion i now have and start getting that sorted to fit.

Hope this all makes sense lol.

hmm i dont like your fual tank positioning at all! but fair play for getting stuck in!

Why would that have been safer and i would have had to really lean in to fill it with petrol and if i have my bmx in the boot i would have to take it out first to fill up. I did look into it alot and bought an alloy fuel tank the right dimensions so i could fit it in this place and also I'm putting my batter to one side where the seat recess is and i still have the backing plate of the seats in the car to keep the flooor level and its also a good place underneath it to store my tools.

the original location means its out of the way of any rear end shunt and if it does split due to an accident then the fuel leaks under the car. I just have this horrible vision of being hit in the rear, the tank splitting and covering the people in the front in fuel. eeeekkk

Also the original location is better as its lower in the car thus keeping the centre of gravity lower and also it doesn't have the weight behind the rear wheels.

more progress and more parts god its been an expensive two weeks and for the last month been working my ass off overtime as I'm doing this month so far and hoping to carry on to fund the rest

so new parts.

S/S 421 manifold brand new raceland one.

S/S Teflon fuel hose 8 metres

S/S teflon fuel fittings Torques brand not cheap at all :( worth it though

fittings on my fuel pump and fuel regulator

Also got my new clutch kit, full rear disc setup ( new discs, new pads, new wheel bearings, new mk2 golf handbrake cables)

Mk1 golf, mk2 golf and original polo haynes manuals, Mk1 golf coilovers, mk1 golf gti hubs, driveshafts, calipers. also some laser cut steering arms for the coilover conversion :) audi 80 top mounts, g60 master cylinder, rear caliper repair kit, mk2 polo slam panel.

anyways now to the work I've done last weekend and during this week after work and overtime.

rear beam strengthened with extra corner plate at the top

stub axle forward plates welded on braced and strengthened

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-...7_3159703_n.jpg

with mk2 golf stub axle and caliper test fitted

rear beam fully hammerited black and G Lader bushes fitted

AFH valver engine on new engine stand i just bought to work on this engine

fuel filler entrance on body work plate tacked over to smooth

now here is my new test piece i keep catching my exhaust on the speed bumps in my area and not mega bothered atm as its a standard exhaust but when i get my valver engine in and my full s/s exhaust fitted it will piss me off and beings I'm only about 80mm lowered all around and may soon be going around 120mm with the mk1 golf coilover conversion i have thought up a plan.

instead of the exhaust going under the rear beam its going over beings a i have no fuel tank fitted in the standard place anymore.

the problem was there is no gap between the body and rear beam.

so i decided to put it through the car over the rear beam and chassis rail that runs across the car.

so i had the exhaust backbox off anyway and the main pipe stops before the rear beam so measured where this was and cut two holes one in the rear seatbase one behind either side of the chassis rail and rear beam. i then measured up and fabricated my self a tunnel for the exhaust pipe to go through in the car so its not actually in the car. still need to do a few mods and finish welding but it isn't going to bad so far (touch wood)

enjoy

this way when i get my custom s/s exhaust bent to shape i will get some extra bends put in to go through this tunnel so its over the rear beam thus giving me more ground clearance and the lowest part under the car will be my sills or something in the engine bay maybe the sump or manifold or subframe when i get it in a few months time.

hope you like I'm sure some wont and will have their opinions but everyone does and i like to hear all the feedback from different views but please dont slate me too hard lol I'm trying.

No one is slating the work that you have done as it all looks great we are just a bit worried about the safety aspect of it.. but it will look great.

I've thought about doing exactly what you have done with the exhaust tunnel. :) Make sure that you have a weld in brace between the rear turrets and perhaps a brace bar that goes under the exhaust as well to put the strength back in that's been taken out by cutting the shell. Also I would make sure the exhaust is wrapped there as it might make that exhaust box section really hot. :)

Also if you want to stiffen up the rear beam I would use some angle in there and triangulate it as the metal plate will just twist with the beam. I think that webbing is just there to stop the trailing arm being pushed inwards.

I can't wait to see this finished :)

right last week after work, this weekend just gone and this week after work so far I've been putting in the hours its literally been work-car-sleep everyday except sunday when it was car-sleep.

The rear disc conversion has been a pain in the f'ing ass but its all on now and just need to bleed them tomoz and fit the handbrake and cables this weekend.

so I'm running stub axle forward plates which brought the

first problem: cant run the discs at the back of the wheel due to forward plate.

solution: swap the stub axles to the opposite sides so the calipers sit at the front on the wheels.

second problem: caliper fouls on the beam

Solution: grind off excess on caliper and handbrake mech part.

thrid problem: still fouls on rear beam the slightest so carrier will not move fully as pads wear down.

Solution: make some adapter blocks to pivot the caliper upwards on the bottom bolt so that it clears the rear beam fully.

Fourth Problem: I ground the brake line stop off the rear beam when i added the extra strengthening plate.

Solution: Do away with the hard pipe and run a longer front flexi hose for the rear brake instead of the rear flexi and hard pipe.

anyways heres the pics after nearly 2 weeks off problem solving and fitting they are finally all on and just needing a bleed tomorrow.

Also fitted the rear mk1 golf coilovers and next week will be welding the steering arms onto the front ones .

stub axle with adapter fitted.

adapter for carrier

adapter

All Fitted after painting.

I also have started painting the engine ready for rebuilding.

And drilled my solid discs at work as i had time and it also saved me spending another 25 odd quid on buying drilled ones i paid half the price but ended up with the same after some little work from myself and a dividing head on the milling machine at work.

enjoy lots more updates coming over the next few weeks major work is going on atm.

Such work in this thread.

To the point of being stunned, Is the exhaust tunnel running anywhere near the tank?

Id imagine (I hate to go back to an old point but..) If you were rear ended, the tank cracks/splits, the exhaust tunnel cracks/splits, fuel+hot=fire.

I know you've probably thought of this.

But anyway, carry on, it's still a good thread to read, classic example of improvise, adapt and overcome. :)

nope the exhaust tunnel is not very close to the tank at all and the exhaust part that goes through the tunnel will be heat wrapped.

so should avoid this from happening.

today my car started like this

i then got the drill out and started drilling spotwelds and the car became like this

i then drilled some more holes and fitted some rivnuts in appropriate places and then bolted in my new slam panell so it is now fully bolt in :)

also fitted my stainless steel braided hose and fittings to the tank last night after alot of effort this week fitting the fittings to the hose what an ordeal and a half and still alot more to do.

more progress maybe tomorrow night after i work on it more tomorrow wanna get the engine rebuilt mostly tomorrow and the rear brakes fully bled and working.

why the rear disc conversion?

why not rear discs they look good in my opinion and i wanted them on my car it was alot of effort but worth it in my eyes plus the extra stopping power will help when the afh engine is in.

cool thread mate cant wait to see it finished how much more are you doing?

theres alot lot more to do its going to be a sort of track inspired show car but a daily driver more so because i want a show car but cant afford to insure two cars so this will be both and while I'm here may as well update lol.

so after fitting my rear disc conversion i went to put on my wheels and oh no they dont clear the carriers but only because of the adapter i had to fit to clear the handbrake mech on the beam. so after buying some 10mm spacers the wheels were fitted and cleared the brakes yayyyyy.

heres a few pics of it back on the wheels spot the problem now.

drivers side:

passenger side

And how the wheels now sit in the arch after the stub axle forward plates were fitted and welded into place. they are now central finally.

and this is with the coilies wound all the way down but with helper springs still in so may need to wind them up a bit before i get my arches further flared in about 3 weeks time

YES! this is coming on

hmmm Think you may need to raise that a little

or..... make the arches evan wider anyways this is a sick mk2 bready for sure :)

good work

I'm gunna flare the arches more and maybe raise it a tad or take out the slack of when the weight of the car is put on the shocks that should help abit i reckon.

and thanks for the positive comments mate.

Awesome work here! Can't wait to see this all done.

this is dedication so much work very impressed mate keep the updates coming

I cant see any pictures

Love the way you go about things dude Great stuff!

some inspiring work been done so far on this, love the fuel lines and fixings!

Rear disks are just for show really, my mk1 running the afh stops well enough with drums on rear vwII up front and no servo

so since thursday night been mega busy i turned the car around got the front on axle stands and started stripping everything front end wise.

and to save on getting a hold of an engine crane this weekend i stripped the 1 litre engine as much as i could and dropped it out of the bottom :)

once the engine was out i stripped everything else i could out too and took the dash out the inside to get to the wiring.

so the engine bay is all empty except master cylinder and brake lines. so i got the hammer and chisel out then and also the grinder and started getting rid of the scuttle panel fire wall thing.

i also started to get rid of un-needed wiring like the rear wiper, heated rear window and washer jet wires just from the rear loom. once the engine is in il work out what bits of wiring i can get rid of from the engine loom.

also started sorting my mk1 golf hubs and coilover conversion sorting out the mk1 golf gti outer c.v joints and my polo driveshafts just need to sort some wheel bearings and get my coilover steering arms properly welded on.

anyways i did alot more just proper tired so cant remember much heres some pictures.

also chopped out some of the front valance as can bee seen above this is due to fitting an alloy radator and these are taller than standard polo ones so I'm going to make a box section brace to go across to add strength back in and to also mount the new radiator and oil cooler on when i get these.

old engine was throwing out oil so it was fubarred tbh lol part of the reason for engine swap plus i wanted moarrrrr powerrrrrr

so heres this weekends update.

should be a mega update next weekend as the valver engine is going in wont be running for a week or two after though but hopefully have it running to go big bang vw show at santa pod as I've gotta go there to ride the bmx demo and show off for the crowd lol.

Epic build so far

thanks man appreciate it