This is looking really impressive mate honestly! Brakes look nice too! I sometimes think lots of the same colour looks stupid but yours is real nice!

Where are the carbs leaking? If its from the t pieces between the float bowls, this is common as the o rings harden with no fuel around them & being sat etc.

You could try sourcing new, but I took mine out and soaked in neat petrol overnight then rebuilt and was all good then, have them a new lease of life :)

I can't see where they are leaking, but it is from the bottom, I'll have a look next week. Cheers for the tip

Thanks for the vote of confidence on the colour too. The brakes will barely be visible behind the wheels anyway

Mine were like that mate, was a bit awkward to detect at first :)

Can't wait til this is done! Should go well too :) decided on airfilterings yet?

Going to keep the trumpets as they are. Make a plate to hold them down, with a fine mesh filter stretched over the main inlets and breather holes.

I'm hoping for 115bhp at the least. Optimistic?

Don't know your spec tbh matey?

What, you haven't committed this thread to memory!

1.6 AEA (higher CR than AEE), freshly rebuilt with everything, cbr600 carbs, GT cam, 4-2-1 into 2" exhaust.

The pumps are well loud when dry haha

You sure you have the fuel pipe on the right part of the carbs? Dont make the same mj

Istake i did! Hahaha

What is the compression ratio? Be a bit higher with head skimmage too? You ported or anything? I might try a GT cam, want some torque lol. Should see 100 at least I'd have thought

Didn't skim the head, was fine as it was. Not sure on CR off the top of my head, think its 1 above the AEE. Didn't port the head, but I polished off the worst of the casting marks. I'm going to have to do a bit of work on the inlet though, as i know for certain its not the best flowing part of the system

about 10:1?? Yeah castings are pretty good compared to lots of engines tbh.

Think I blended my ports from 31 to 34mm ish

With projects like this though i always think, surely it would be easier to get the engine in running first with standard parts then modify it while it is on the road so thast you can enjoy the car at the same time.

IMO do it right the first time and spend ages after not worrying about it.

you need the gearbox to body earth strap fitted, its how the starter motor earths. what earths have you currently got going from the body, to the actual engine block? if they arent of suitable thickness, its not surprising that your having problems.

brakes look larrrrrvly!

Oh if you dont have the thick earth on no wonder there are issues haha

I've got the thick earth from block to chassis, just not g.box to chassis. I'v posted about this quite a bit, and getting mixed replies. I'm going to connect one up I think, but I think i filled the hole whilst smoothing Wont take much to tap a hole.

Regarding my lose black wire above, any ideas?

I'm with Kerrly too, the idea behind this car is to get it running, and then never need to touch it again besides usual maintenance. Practically everything that can wear has been replaced with new, so its practically a new car, except for the chassis, which has been undersealed, and the body shell/interior. I have a new toy on the way to keep playing with anyhow

Saf, still coming to RR day, or did i see your not anymore?

ill be there dude, get a pic of the black wire up cos i cba trawling thru the thread, n ill have a look

I usually run an earth from the long M8 bolt that holds the starter to gearbox, to the ignition coil, replacing the sometimes troublesome earth that bolts to the gearbox mount (often the thread is stripped on the gearbox mount so it won't tighten up properly.)

This one here Saf, with the white plug marked with a IV. The red one is now attached to the starter, and I'm guessing this is an Earth for it? Being an Early loom and a late (6n) starter, there is no matching terminal on the starter itself. Can't get behind it to have a good look either, but as you can see, they are wrapped together, indicating they go to the same area (starter)

Would it be a good idea/possible to run an earth strap from gear box mount to the gear box mount-bolt to the chassis? Definately going to Earth this point now on thinking about it. My last mk2 didn't have one, and was forever having starting issues in the cold (summer was fine though) and I dont want that carry on again. I'm sure it was this lack of Earth that was the issue, although Toby disagrees

Edited 23 January, 201214 yr by prankstar2003

as said you can run one from the gearbox body where the starter attaches, you can probably run that back to the battery, or somewhere in the scuttle if you want to keep it hidden. ill have a look at where that wires connected on me mk2 tonight but in the meantime

http://z3.invisionfree.com/Mk1_Polo_Club/i...?showtopic=2418

hope that helps, looms should be pretty much the same on the early motors

the black plug is not an earth, it's the 12v supply for the coil when the engine is cranking over. If you've modified the ignition system as I said before to run 12v permanently to the coil then you don't need the black wire anymore.

as a rule of thumb on VWs, black wire is +12v and brown is earth.

Aha! That's good to know gaz. Must have not understood what you were saying before. I'll have another read. I have ditched the purple/White wire though.

How could i test to see I have 12v to the coil? Good plan with the strap Saf, I'll do that with the scuttle to g'box housing

just measure the voltage across the termials with the ignition switched on, it should be the same as (or very close to) the battery voltage

Terminals of the coil with just the key turned to 'on'? Engine doesn't need to be running right? Sweet. Thanks again Gaz.

Yes that's right

Had her running today, good sound hearing it fire up with no exhaust! Can't quite get her to idle just yet, but close.

Didn't do an awful lot else, so no picture updates. Just spent time putting alternator an pulleys on etc. Word of warning, always put the crank alternate pulley on before putting the engine in! Spent about an hour working like a gyno earlier trying to get it on

It'll take a bit to get it ticking over man, timing, jetting etc etc all effect it, you'll get there :)