Think it's mostly a timing issue. It's hard to get it to temperature ATM to set the timing! Plus I have fuel pissing out of the breathers from the top of the carbs (little black T pieces) when i run the pump for too long. Hopefully i can get it running on the standard jets for now.

Sounds like too much fuel pressure or the float needles arn't sealing properly IMO. Have you checked your float heights?

Nope, how would I do that? What are the two black Ts for?

They're breathers and overflows, so I'd get some pipe on them and route away from heat etc, but do not blank them or restrict them, will cause havoc lol.

Oh right. I've just joined the two of them together in a loop. It's pissing out if i don't do this. How can I alter/check the float height?

You'll have to look that up mate, not sure where you measure from and how you adjust properly.

How's fuelling setup?

How can I alter/check the float height?

Dunno if it's the same on these as bikes I've had in the past, but as a rule, you remove the carb, tip it upside down and remove the float bowl.

With it still upside down, measure from the mounting face for the float bowl on the carb to the top(would be bottom when the carb is the right way up) of the float. If it's the wrong height, bend the metal tab on the float that attaches to the fuel inlet needle valve.

Thanks 86C. I can't see how they would have been altered though.

Harris, I'm using the T-piece with a facet pump. What else could be causing this 'leak'? the rubber rings seem to be holding up ok

check and double check your return pipe for blockages.

Yeap, my return line had restriction....if youre not running and pumps on, it will find the easiest past, so I'd say it's building up pressure instead of returning

If your bike carbs don't have a dedicated return you're better off with a swirl pot than a T-piece. Carb'd mk2 golfs come with a nice shiny metal one. I have a new one in my garage if you're interested. It cost me around £30 from gsf a couple of years ago but I never got around to fitting it.

I think i have a swirl pot from a mk2 somewhere. Could i put that in line between the feed (from pump) and T-piece (that goes to return and carbs) or should i put it after the T (but before the carbs)?

My feed pipe from T-Piece to carbs is quite long at the present, could this be the issue?

i thought a swirl pot was to help under cornering

Blow down your return fuel line with everything else connected, and fuel cap on etc, see if there is any resistance

The swirl pot replaces the T-piece altogether in theory, it has an inlet from pump, outlet to carbs and return to tank and controls the delivery of fuel to the carb better than a t-piece does (A lot better!)

Ah right. Maybe I'll pop one in line and see if that does the job. Out of interest, how much would you want for yours if i cant find mine?

Bloody weather! Didn't get to work on the car today, which is annoying. Too much snow to be rolling around in. Plus she was having issues starting anyway. Add in a healthy dose of snow, and there's snow way I'd get her to run today without issues. Not a huge deal as i get half term holiday from next weekend! Should be able to spend a few days working on her then.

Any way, didn't update the thread with the few pictures I took last week. Nothing major, but may help those who want to convert an early polo with pressure-switch brake light switch convert to a later M/C (in this case 22.5mm Golf item).

So we start with a Maplin push-to-break switch (meaning in the the unpressed position, the lights are off)

Then i drilled a 8mm (iirc) hole just above the standard rubber stop and put the switch in. I made sure the supplied nut was wound right out and used a washer behind the switch body to make sure the pedal wasn't depressed by a few mm, when it should be flat against the original stop.

Simple! All thats left is to solder the wires from the original switch. At least its one less job to do. Looking at finishing off the exhaust next week. My man, Dodge, who made the inlet mani is going to custom fab the flexi fitting, and exhaust extension for the backbox-to-S. Will get pictures of the job next week . But as you can imagine, using a coupe length exhaust on a saloon leaves me a little short in the pipe department

Thats all folks!

Minor update today. Got the GT cam fitted, no problems except the tensioning mechanism is so bloody fiddly! Only took about an hour though with the problems. Laid all the wiring for the stereo, so thats one less job. Started looking into how i can wire the horn up to the rear wiper switch. My steering wheel doesn't have horn push and the loon doesn't have rear wipers. Therefore I thought I'd make the switch into the horn. This avoids ugly aftermarket switches and keeps the horn within reach. Just a quick question though, where does the horn earth to, the steering column? Just need to find the correct pin for the washer-pump switch.

Also got a set of spare door cards in the post. They were black vinyl sort which I'm going to re-trim in quality black vinyl with a stitched detail. Reason for buying another set is that I want to keep all rare oringinal parts in case I want to go back to standard. I stripped the vinyl off these bad boys and was left with these

Oh, and I bust my distributor :sad: bloody drive pin got crushed as I bolted it on last week. It didn't put up much resistance. Need a new one now

my drive pin got broken too, not from bolting up though it just snapped

:(

Hopefully have another dizzy on the way, so alls looking up. A friend of mine is coming round to sort the exhaust tomorrow. Needs some serious work to get it under the rear beam and keep it tucked up under the floor. He's a pipe welder, so without doubt, the man to do it!

Continued work on the door cards today. Filled the pocket cut outs with a bit of hardboard and then cut the holes for the speakers

Spent the rest of the afternoon round the old dears trying to sort out trimming them. The original idea was to just stretch the black vinyl over them, but the shapes are too complicated. Means we need to sew a panel in on the arm rest part. Hoping to have a prototype done on saturday for the rears.

Got these in the post too. cant see the pointer for the economy meter however. Will need to find someway of moving my odometer and revcounter across now. After I'd just got mine done.

Update tomorrow on the exhaust tomorrow.

Got these in the post too. cant see the pointer for the economy meter however. Will need to find someway of moving my odometer and revcounter across now. After I'd just got mine done.

I've seen a few of these MPG gauges and none of them appeared to have a needle Swapping the speedometer/odometer section over should be pretty easy as they only attach to the speedometer cable.

The needle will swing into view when it's powered up

86c (steve?) thanks for that, thought that may be the case. But looked right behind the facia, still coulnt see it. Must be tucked up real good.

The clocks shouldn't be a problem, I'm just not going to have a clock/temp gauge

You can keep the temp gauge. Just change the clock for a rev counter from a Coupe or Ranger. If the clock adjusting knob annoys you, change the perspex on the front of the clocks for one without the adjuster on it.

And the needle is proper tucked away...

That's what I thought I'd do, but wasn't sure if I'd prefer a clock!. I'll change the perspex over and my odometer/speedo. Will all the wiring be there to run the speedo then? Isn't it on the printed circuit foil?