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That's what I thought I'd do, but wasn't sure if I'd prefer a clock!. I'll change the perspex over and my odometer/speedo. Will all the wiring be there to run the speedo then? Isn't it on the printed circuit foil?

The speedo is mechanical so it doesn't hook into the blue circuit at all.

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  • prankstar2003
    prankstar2003

    Thanks Jake. Last few days I've been putting the doors up. Apart from a few small things it's done

  • prankstar2003
    prankstar2003

    Good weather (still) over the last few weeks means I've gotten the boards on the roof now. This will in time be covered in corrugated steel but for now it's reasonably water proof until I can get hol

  • prankstar2003
    prankstar2003

    Garage all painted (I'll get pics) and the car is moving in on Sunday. I may even get to work on it over the summer ;-/

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  • Author

No, the rev counter in wondering about

lovin the work you have done.

On a non digital clock set up, the circuit board should have everything you need to run a rev counter. Not 100% sure on Formel E clocks though but I don't see why not.

  • Author

Well, we'll soon find out! I'll just swap then over. Although ideally, I'd like to get rid of the 'choke' light as I won't be using a choke

I'd like the choke version as i do run a choke, had access to one but didn't get it, might be up for swapping that part..?

  • Author

Which bit do you want mikey? The whole clock or just the middle light bit?

  • Author

My man dodge popped round to work his magic on the exhaust. He's taken measurements and is going to fab something up. Hopefully won't be too long, sonpiccy updates soon.

Meanwhile I started panelling out the boot. Have the sides done, just need to make a sub/amp enclosure. Will be finished off the same way as th door cards to keep the theme running into the back.

Also swapped my new clocks over so have a rev counter, my oringinal mileage and the economy meter (hybrid of 3 different clock sets!). However, when the ignition is on, I have no dash lights (battery, oil, temp or handbrake). Indicator light comes on with the stalk down, but doesnt flash (with the other rev counter clocks the indi light was always on, just very dim. With the stalk down it would brighten, but still wouldn't flash), but there are no indicator lights actually attached. Would this prevent the ticking? The fuel gauge works ok though and so does the rev counter (at least it jumps as the starter engages). Looking at the back, there is corrosion on some of the inline resistors, and a few of the printed tracks seem to be damaged/melted! However, with the rev counter clocks (before I added the economy gauge, but still a replacement for the originals) the oil and batt lights dont come on either. Any ideas? I guess the first thing to do is repair the damaged printed foil, but that looks mega fiddly.

Edited by prankstar2003

Are you 100% sure all of the LEDs are plugged in? They can be fiddly to get right.

With no indicators connected, the green LED won't flash at all.

As for the oil and battery lights, are the relevant senders/wires connected in the engine bay? Main engine earth present?

Edited by 86C

i had a simlar problem a while back during a engine conversion, is the big plug connected into the back of the fuse box on the bulkhead?

Edited by willsalter1000

The swap would be the little LED cluster which is about half the size of a matchbox, which is bonded to the big blue flexible printed circuit. So that's all one piece. Plus there's the tiny picture plate (just the lower one) as this has the choke symbol as well as the brake symbol. So that's two pieces, and i'd send the non-choke version of both pieces.

But the printed circuit needs to be sweet, they can melt if a resistor fails or bulbs of a higher wattage are used. I'll have to pass if it's a damaged one i'm afraid, i've tried soldering a by-pass onto my old one (bulb from another car was 3w or something stupid) and i didn't have the skill/patience, i just made it worse!

  • Author

Just remembered the temp sensor isn't unplugged actually, so that rules that one out. I'll check the big plug too, make sure it's well pushed on. I'm thinking the buggered pcb is most likely the problem.

Screw MPG meters haha, get it running properly first! :)

  • Author

Your probably right Harris. But I'm waiting for a new dizzy ATM. So may as well get on with something else

You can switch drive pegs between dizzys

  • Author

I don't have a spare :?

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I was thinking earlier, after reading the "English vs Germans" thread...

Yeah the germans might be a bit more creative and "ballsy" when it comes to modifications, but I'm yet so see a bay from over their that looks so much at home and classy as this, and Spen's is it?

Both just look fantastic, and i think it's that aspect that we triumph at over zee germans.

Nice work dude, its my inspiration. Can't say mine won't look better though 8-)

Edited by MaxMax

  • Author

Thanks. Spens is on another level though! Blinged to the max!

Kind of agrees with what I was trying to say in that thread. We're more about show than go here I think.

spens is bling bling, this looks old school. love it

Thanks. Spens is on another level though! Blinged to the max!

Kind of agrees with what I was trying to say in that thread. We're more about show than go here I think.

I wouldn't agree with that entirely, but i think we have a knack for making things look right, not just "show". It does my head in on here when they think they're engine bay looks better because its "smoother" or shinier, its about making it look right and have everything work together...

Spen's is indeed another level, but its a different look.

Honestly love your engine bay mate

I think a polished/silver or black offside engine mount would improve it though...

Do it on yours?

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