Have done

There you go then you can open your bay and admire, and be happy yours is that way haha

You fixed your problem yet?

The car the engine is actually in?

You fixed your problem yet?

The car the engine is actually in?

buy my rustbucket!

I don't know if mine has a problem tbh lol, id like to race a valver

I've considered the polished mount, but decided against it as it would be a polished bit amongst painted bits, so went against it. Everything in the bay has been thought through to maximise the look. I hope so anyway

Bit of an update on the interior. This has been my main focus the last few weeks whilst other bits get sorted.

Me and the old dear have been trying to find a way to trim the door cards. Much harder than initially thought, but we're getting there. In the mean time, I'v been working on the boot. The idea here is to have a nice sound system but done in a classy way and without losing too much boot space.

So last week I made this board up for the boot and a single box, to house all the amps in. Anyone spot the school boy error?

The long board on the top will sit just inside the top of the boot to hide the 6x9s. All to be trimmed to match the rest of the interior

When I went away last week, I realised I had made a stupid error and made the box a square, and not given a slanted back to it. Trial fitting showed that the box wouldn't even fit! So this was remedied this weekend. My excuse for this is not having the car at the same place I was working. Have been at my old mans doing this, and he has a lovely double garage with all the tools you could need. Really need somewhere like that myself!

Anyway, after taking the circular saw to my 'square box' and working away today and yesterday I now have these; one for a sub, the other for amps.

These are far from done, with a few tricks up the sleeve to make this a nice, discreet install.

These got delivered this week too. Ebay bargain - couple of Goodyear Eagles for £50 delivered. Brand new. I'm changing the tyre plans. Initial idea was to use 165 and 155/55 tyres. But this wasnt going to be a large enough contact patch for the torque and grip, want to make the most of both the engine and subframe (thanks polomon, I've seen the light!) so I've upgraded to 175/50 and 185/50 tyres.

I have a replacement dizzy and my friend is currently working on the exhaust for me. I'll get this interio finished first and then I'll get back on the engine when teh 'zort is done. Also just taken delivery of a potential new distraction aswell

Edited 26 February, 201214 yr by prankstar2003

is that 9mm MDF over a frame for the sub box? personally i'd have gone for at least 18mm MDF and done away with the frame - but then the install in the boot of my golf did weigh about 18st with all the soundproofing, false floor etc! I'd also seal up the interior of the box with FG resin to keep it all nice and tight.

are you having the ICE removable if you need to use the boot or is it all gonna stay in there? how will you access the spare wheel?

not knocking your work btw (you know i love how this car is taking shape) I'm just giving you more stuff to think about!

mack

still waiting to see this engine running! chop chop!

9mm? More like 6! I have made stuff from this before and it seems to hold up fine. Trying to keep weight down abit and it wont be running big power. The sub box has been sealed too. Wondering about a port though, not sure what to go for. It's all screwed up good, so i cant see it coming apart. My major concern is vibrations/case resonannce.

It is removable, but I'm sacking off the spare wheel. I always carry a can of trye inflator for emergencies and on longer journeys, I'll take a wheel on the boot back/boot itself.

Eric, the dizzy is buggered atm, but just got a replacement. And the exhaust is being sorted too. Need to save for a new battery too!

check on the recommended box specs for that sub - generally for a ported box the volume will need to be bigger than for a sealed.

are you using any sound deadening? second skin damplifier pro and spectrum sludge are the dog's if you are.

That bay is gorgeous!

check on the recommended box specs for that sub - generally for a ported box the volume will need to be bigger than for a sealed.

are you using any sound deadening? second skin damplifier pro and spectrum sludge are the dog's if you are.

I'll check the specs, thanks. I was going to try to avoid using sound deadening to reduce weight. We're would you recomend it having maximum effect if I wanted to use it sparingly?

I would also like to know about sound proofing and whats best as I want to get mk1 mk1 nice and quiet on the inside :)

I'm not so sure it's going to flex. Theres plenty of bracing in there, and as I've said before, I've had no issues with it in the past. We'll see.

Anyhow, whats this silent coat, and where do you put it?

Thanks. I may have to invest in a bit of that. However, I found, and this is a budget option, putting draft excluder foam on any contact surface to be sufficient last time. I put it all around the edge of large panels, and again, it worked fine. Stopped most of the iritating rattles. May not stop vibrations, but it stopped them rattling. Which is good enough for me. The problem with the sounds deadening is the weight. The stystem already is a little havier than i'd like, and I don'f really want to start adding to it. I'll have to see how it sounds when its all together, and then go from there

grip fill? Whats that like then?

I think its what builders use. I wouldn't use it on my car. Neither would I use expandable foam. PIKEY!

Dynamat is expensive but very good. I used RattleMatt to good effect in mine but it is fairly heavy. I got the 300mm x 10m roll, it weighed quite alot!

eBay Shop

It worked a treat on stoping all the panel vibrations. So far I have done the rear quarters, boot lid, boot floor, rear doors, rear bench and front doors.

So if you use expandable foam surely it would cover up things like door lock, boot locker and such.

EDIT: also I don't really care what other people have to say on forums. I said that stuff worked for me and I would not put foam and rubbish into my car. I am sure there are many better alternatives it just seems like the cheap (Pikey) option.

Edited 27 February, 201214 yr by racer-ev

Just read through this, good job dude

To echo what Polomon said - products like damplifier (my preferred choice) and dynamat, are mass loading products, to add weight to panels and essentially make it harder for the sound waves to make them vibrate. This gives, tighter, crisper bass with none of that "doof doof" that charvas love so much. any panels that are vibrating are wasting the sound energy that SHOULD be vibrating your ear drums, internal organs, sphincter etc...

problem is it can add a lot of extra weight - it was noticlable performace wise on my mk2 gti so on a 1.3 polo you're right in thinking about the negative effects. if i were you, i'd put some in the front doors behind the speakers and some in the boot around the area where the sub is located and firing. if you're not planning on heavy bass then i'd concentrate mainly on the front doors.

expanding foam/grip fill and such is a barrier against airborne noise so unless you can essentially stick two panels together by filling a void, it isn't going to stop vibration. and yes, it is a bit pikey - it's not going to come off easily and you want to keep that stuff away from any mechanical/moving parts (door mechs, locks etc). also you don't have a lot of control over where/how it expands so you have to bear that in mind.

i spent about £250-300 on soundproofing in my golf, and aside from the slight drop in performance, i didn't regret a penny of that. I have my music loud a lot more often than i have the opportunity to drive fast after all. an added bonus was that unless i wound down the windows and opened the sun roof, you could barely tell the stereo was cranking - handy if you live in my area of newcastle!

when you knocked on the front door metal, it sounded like a piece of oak! (2 layers of damplifier and a thick coat of sludge.

if you are using ANY foam on your car (insulation/roofing etc etc) make sure it is closed cell otherwise it WILL absorb moisture (even from breathing) and hold that against the metal. your hard worked for a restored car will rot from the inside out.

oh and keep a little bit of damplifier etc to one side, as you'll possibly find your numberplate rattles with any increase in base - that's a pet hate of mine and it makes your car sound gash from the outside.

easy now

mack

Cheers mack. This is no 1.3 though, 1.6 power! Haha! I'll bear all that in mind. I'll probably get it all working first, and see where the major rattles are. Not really wanting to spend that money on sound proofing tbh. Thanks for the avice though

seconded for talkaudio

Stainless flexi was finished today. Pics up as soon as i have it in my grubby bastard hands!

More top work from my welder buddy dodge. Really need to learn to weld, but since I'll never be this good, there's little point!

One less thing to sort