http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bevel-Brush-115m...=item35ba3972fa

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115mm-BEVEL-FELT...=item5d33615b59

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bevel-Brush-115m...=item35ba3972fa

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115mm-BEVEL-FELT...=item5d33615b59

Cheers Jon, tried searching on there a few times but when your not really sure what your actually looking for its a bit difficult to find it

What type of polishing compound would be best to use with that mop for a final polish? I need a new mop anyway so wouldn't mind giving one of these a try

Edited 17 May, 201214 yr by Mclovin

its a long time since I've bothered trying to machine polish metal. from memory i used brown soap for first polish then blue for final finish. there are other compounds between, but i found those two were fine for me. you can also use some stuff called vienna lime to remove any grease/excess polish without damaging the finish. looks a bit like a bag of drugs though so don't leave it in your car!!!

So this would be ideal then? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Polishing-Compou...=item45ed6acac3

See what you mean, I've got a couple of mates that would probably inhale that when I weren't looking if they seen it knocking about my shed

yeah thats the stuff!

When I try to mop this stuff, I keep gettin 'burns'. My mop is pretty solid, time for a new one?

sounds like you have the wrong type of mop. it should be fairly soft. the ones i used to use were either made of felt or cotton and not really abrasive in any way, hence the use of the cutting soaps

It is soft, i think its just been over used and is all clogged up. I ran it against the edge of my work bench to try and clear it a bit, and it broke up some of the shite. Then tried guys approach by applying autosol by hand, and buffed with the mop. Where it didn't 'burn' it came up like a mirror!

just read through this lil battle youve got going - if your going to have a competition with me for general finish - you have to remember mine isnt just full of shiny metal! i have coded and black and polished stuff, the finish of mine is top, so what bens trying to say is that if your going to do it then do it to the highest you can else it will look like a half job - and that aint no competition for me. when you see my gearbox is colour coded and the gearbox mounts are chrome with chromed bolts and black detailed hydro clutch - thats the level were talking - no polished parts on that- I've spend 15 hours on that area alone.

your not far away - just need to really get into it, i hate polishing as my facebook comment on guys status today says. and the worst bit is when you rush through the paper grades just to get to the cutting compound and get a shine to it. go through the grades nice and slow removing all the marks and when you get to the cutting compound you will blind yourself with the shine.

and as crap as it is....you have to use your fingers to get in the nooks and crannies as power tools dont do the same job.

keep at it

I haven't declared a formal competition here, just that as a car to work towards, and exceed, would be yours. As I've said before, yours is the current bench mark.

The biggest problem I have with the polishing is knowing when the 'damage' from the previous grade has been removed. Do you wash the job between grades to remove the dust? I find steel and stainless ok, but softer metals I find harder

Edited 19 May, 201214 yr by prankstar2003

you not finished it yet???

Dizzy refitted but the brake light switch broke wings both painted though. Spent ages trying to find a short circuit that was causing one brake light to come on. Turns out I'd knocked the indicator on and the parking light had come on

I haven't declared a formal competition here, just that as a car to work towards, and exceed, would be yours. As I've said before, yours is the current bench mark.

The biggest problem I have with the polishing is knowing when the 'damage' from the previous grade has been removed. Do you wash the job between grades to remove the dust? I find steel and stainless ok, but softer metals I find harder

There shouldn't be any dust, when your working through the grades it should be soaking wet with soapy water, I use fairy liquid in the water as a lubricant

I use fairy liquid in the water as a lubricant

Guy your right, I meant the mixture of dust and water, that sludgy crap.

Kitchen roll is your friend. I go through rolls at a time when doing shit like this, its great for the job but the misses goes apeshit when she goes to use it to wipe the sides down and I've used it all on a set of wheels

i get blue roll stuff from work, even better tbh LOL

Yeah it probably is tobes, I use k/r because its on hand and soaks up the shit well, its also soft. I use bog roll too, if its soft enough for a my ring piece, then its soft enough for some metal

you use kitchen roll for wiping you are ass? are you mad?

Only when I run out of bog roll

The problem with using tp when polishing is that it breaks down a lot easier than kitchen roll so it can get a bit more messy, with bits of pulpy tp stuck in harder to het places.

Edited 20 May, 201214 yr by Mclovin

I use a bot of old rag tbh

Update time.

Got the wings painted and back on today, as well as the bumpers, so she's fully clothed once again

Looks a bit odd with the faded old paint, and theres a dirty curtain run on the drivers side where the aerosol decided to spew out a load of paint at once. Anyway, that can be sorted.

Also go the KWs fitted on the rear. Probably a better option than the lowering spring/standard damper combo.

They have silly yellow springs which is a shame. Still, shan't really be seen

Did a few other things, but nothing major. So i shant bore with the details

Oh, i was trying to wire my horn to the rear wash switch, but I'm unsure which wires to use. When I used the ones I though it was, it blew a fuse. So any ideas here?

haynes manual should tell you which wire it is.

it will be a positive wire- use a multimeter if you dont have the book- test which wires go to positive when you press the switch. dont go on colour match though (wire on the pump) as this can change along the circuit.

Cheers. I can't even seem to get the horn to work using the steering wheel horn push, there must be a break in the circuit somewhere.

So gelous of how this looks

Really classy and well executed, dont get too wound up on making something as shiney as possible simon!, personally i don't actually like polished stuff, most of my engine bay will be powdercoated etc.

Good work