Ah, i'll keep an eye out for one of those columns then. There's a rivet that need drilling right to remove it? I hadn't noticed the vw roundel but i see you've moved the 'classic' badge onto it

Why not space the wheels out? Mine are 15mm axle with 20mm wheel at back and 20 up front and sit practically flush with the arches

Though they don't look it, the arches have been flared out quite a bit. I'll try the new rims and see how I like them as they should tie in with the theme quite nicely, just hope I've done the calculations right or they might not fit. More later on.

I should start a build thread really...

It's not a rivet that needs drilling, but a shear bolt. There are 2 bolts that hold the column to the body up behind the dash. If you remove the allen key bolt first and unbolt everything else from the column(bottom clamp, steering rack mounts) then you can usually remove the shear bolt by waggling the column around and nipping what's left of the bolt with a good pair of mole grips end on. I've never drilled out one yet in all the years I've been breaking them.

Edit...

This pic gives you more of an idea of the extra girth of the arch if you look at the front wing...

(the square lights were robbed before I bought it!)

Edited 10 June, 201214 yr by 86C

And the windscreen by the looks of it

Shame about the square lights going missing, imo it makes these saloons.

If its that easy to remove the column, I may yet do that. I'm breaking a coupe, so its kind of become a test bed for removing things. Going to attempt the glass soon and see how that goes. Need to push all the 'loon glass out next year for a repsray, but really don't want to break any glass.

Will you be at polo show? Be good to get all the (early) saloons together

Yeah, I'll be there, and Stanford Hall, and BVF. :-)

Screen now in, all green tint except the rear as the pre '85 cars have a taller rear screen(about half an inch taller) and green tints of these are rare.

The glass comes out easy enough. Cut the front out as you can get a rubber easily enough, the sides kick out but be very careful with the rear. These saloon rear screens are very delicate and don't take much abuse unlike the Mk.1 Derby's.

The rear screens are different lengths? Thats interesting.

Is there a way to get the glass out without cutting the seals? How do you remove the rear, cut it out like on the front?

Edited 10 June, 201214 yr by prankstar2003

You'll be amazed what you can get away with on threads. When we instrument engines at work we often fit like 8-10mm threaded things in stuff that's 2-4mm thick and no issues, from -30 to 50 degrees air temp, inlet manifolds and cooling system components, intercoolers and such

Cheers for that 'Arris. I'll give it a go, but will bear Yoof's advice in mind. The bay needs another polish anyway, bit of coolant won't hurt!

Maybe on a load bearing component, but in a plastic fitting only under like 1 bar of pressure, but the more thread depth the better, more sealant, if I it things like that i use a metal set epoxy resin as a sealant

May do, but thats a bit of a bodge. If i use chemical metal type stuff I'll be making work for myself if i need to replace it

The rear screens are different lengths? Thats interesting.

Is there a way to get the glass out without cutting the seals? How do you remove the rear, cut it out like on the front?

Be very careful with a screwdriver or two and flip the rubber over the lip on the body. Don't be tempted to push it out when it's halfway down the rear pillars like I did or it'll just go boom. Ask me how I know this

Yep, the aperture on the body of early pre '85 cars is about 10 - 12mm taller than later cars, and the glass has rounded corners at the bottom on later cars too.

They list new rears on classic parts.de website but only for '85 onwards cars.

Edited 10 June, 201214 yr by 86C

When you say flip the rubber over the lip, do you mean working from the inside, or push the rubber 'into' the car from the outside

When you say flip the rubber over the lip, do you mean working from the inside

Exactly that

Carefully run a plastic bike tyre lever or similar round the inside and outside of the rubber first to give it a fighting chance of becoming unstuck. Starting off is the difficult bit trying to get the rubber to stay over but once it goes, it gets easier. It is a tedious job though.

Cool beans, I'll bear all that in mind. Thanks

Just had a big catch up on this thread. nice to see it nearing completion- keep up the good work man.

I think is till have a loon bootlid and a set of early rear glass if you need it.

Easy now

Mack

May do, but thats a bit of a bodge. If i use chemical metal type stuff I'll be making work for myself if i need to replace it

Would come out easily :)

Mack, that may well be a good shout, except you're at the wrong end of the country

Recieved my Heko deflectors today. There's some funny clips that you're supposed to use to hold them in place, but there's no way they'll fit in the seal. The fit is tight enough so I've sacked the, off!

They have a dark blue-ish tint that looks nice as it fits with the blue 'theme'

The head unit I plan to use in this is a little modern and too flashy to be on display, so I've gone with a stealthy option

Take one steering wheel under tray

Cut back the sound deadening felt

Introduce the grinder

Test fit an old HU

Install and admire your handy work

Thanks for watching

I'm putting my fuse box down there but I'm planning on hiding my headunit as well. I just placed my heko deflectors up there and they seemed to hold, I'm going to slap some double sided tape to help.

Its a perfect place for it really, just to hand for skipping tracks etc. I'm putting an alpine ida x100 there. I currently have one in the 9n, and its so user friendly. Just had to get another. I'll probably jam a bit of something up the window to hold the deflectors in place

Head unit and deflectors look smart bud :)

thats a pretty cool little place simon! i think i may do the same but with gauges instead

i wont be looking at them all the time though. just want oil pressure and afr so i can have a look every now and again. i want them to be quite hidden as id like it to look standard

Ben knows though

Personally I'd have te gauges where the stereo is, or below in the centre console, then look at relocating the stereo.

i dont want them on show though, idk lol

hows it looking mot wise dude? getting there?

Indeedy. Dodge is eventually coming round tomorrow to sort the exhaust, which is the major thing that needs sorting. So, not too far away