you aint gotta remove the dash to take the clocks out, its a 5 min job! 4 screws lol

standard exhaust will run fine mate! and it will sound nice!

Edited 16 July, 201214 yr by erixtar1992

The saloon item, although the same all the way to the back box is considerably different for the tail pipe. Its not just longer, but has a bend and its offset so that it tucks up nice into the recces in the rear valance. Thanks for the offer though Ben, the backbox only cost £35 delivered, so not a huge amount to pay.

Eric, clocks aren't a massive deal I know, just feels like a step back!

Toby, no pictures because nothings changed

Poly exhaust mounts ordered. The middle rubber has perished after only a few months, fed up of replacing them on the old one so upgrading. At less than £5.50 each, they're quite the bargain. Anyone have experience of them? I'm guessing fitting will be a pig due to the hardness of them

Edited 18 July, 201214 yr by prankstar2003

chuck them in some hot water for a little while mate

Thats what I figured I'd do. Plenty of washing up liquid as well ought to help a bit

Exhaust is on! Doesn't sound much quieter though! Hah! Having a nightmare with electrical stuff though. None of my senders are working

Oil

Alternator/battery

Temp

Bugger!

Sounds like the loom isn't damaged then, and the alt is good..

Have you missed a bay connector? Atleast, on the 6n2, the oil and temp go into the same part of the loom. Maybe you've missed a join or something?

This is going well though! :) Keep it up man.

Thats what I'm thinking. I'm going to strip the wrap off the loom and go through it bit by bit. My Rev counter has stopped working (despite working earlier ) and my indicator light is constantly on!

Still, good fun driving off and back onto my drive! My brakes feel a little spongy, will have to bleed them again me thinks

Yeah, I've bled mine like 6 times now, still can't get them to feel right.

Saying that, I've been driving a brand new Kia with heavily over-servo'd brakes. Which proved to be hopeless today when I needed them.

I think mine feel spongy, but because I've not driven it in months, it might be me just imagining! :(

Pads might need bedding too mind.

Possibly. I do drive a 9n daily with discs all round, and they are hediously fierce! A lack of concentration whilst braking results in the taste of steering wheel! I need to drive an old polo to see what they should be like!

You'll get better feel when it's bedded in and such, could try a pressure bleed combined with traditional method :)

Well spent most of yesterday trying to get the clocks to work. Stripped the whol loom back to wire to check for breakages etc. Checked continuity through the whole system and all is fine. Instead, it seems new clocks and an old loom are incompatible, or my clocks are buggered!

The old clocks seem to work fine (although still no Battery warning light on first click) but the oil pressure light works fine. Being an earlier model it only has the single low pressure sender, but the newer clocks have pins for 2 - 0.3 and 1.8 bar oil pressures. Basically I fiddled around swapping pins etc, but the new clocks will not register and oil warning light. Continuity throughout the clocks is fine, but I theres a part where the circuit runs into a 'junction' for want of a better word, and I'm not sure where to check continuity after this. The rest of the circuit that i can trace and the bulb all have fine continuity, so I'm stumped. On the upside, the temp sender seems to be working. Just still not sure about this battery light. I really don't want to have to replace the alternator, since aside from everything else, it means modifying the loom, something I'd rather not do if there is still a chance of my painted alt working

Will update soon

Did a few more faffy things today, just taking things slow so I don't overlook anything for the MOT (going to book for monday). Tidied up the wiring in the bay a little more, looking smart. Broke my thermostat though, so had to grab a new one. Waiting on some more hose clips and some bungs so I can plastic weld the unused pipes on the thermo housing. I'm hoping these two things will remedy the huge coolant leak I had.

Other than that not an awful lot done, just tinkering until MOT time

I've been making steady progress over the last couple of weeks, but nothing really worth reporting. Just bought some loom tape to re-wrap my 'scuttle loom'. Still having grief with the alternator. Struggling to get under the car when my back feels like an ironing board!

Oh, and a little naughty but I took the engine all the way to 7k the other day. Revved up so quickly, was unbelievable!

Oh, and a little naughty but I took the engine all the way to 7k the other day. Revved up so quickly, was unbelievable!

me like! :)

Buggered about some more today. Ordered a load of stuff yday to finish off a few jobs. Painted my THIRD dizzy up today. Didn't remove any bolts this time, so this one should last a little longer!

Quick question, if my oil/batt light doesn't come on on first click, will it fail the new MOT regs?

haha I took screws out of mine to paint it, and left one out but I can't see that it attached to anything inside and it still spins freely.

they're a pain aint they? :(

The screws that dont look like they hold anything in hold the electrodes in place on the inside . Few more coats today as that hammerite out of a spray can is so thin.

Thanks for the confidence Maxwell. What have I done thats ever gone wrong It does have a little knock coming from somewhere, but I can't find where from. I've put a stethescope all around the engine and can't find where it's coming from. Any other way to check that its not coming from the cylinders?

I think I have sorted the alternator problem. Paid a visit to my brother earlier and he showed me how I can test the alternator. I think when I took the alt apart to paint it, I put it together wrong. On the alt there's a small spade connector; both male and female, this one on a short wire. I assumed that these two connected to eachother. However, the fixed male spade had b+ moulded next to it, but the female part on the wire is connected to d+. With these connected, theres no earth for the d+ circuit. I'm not sure what this is supposed to connect to, so I have grounded it for now on the body of alt. The batt light now lights up on the first click of the ignition, and on cranking it starts to flicker. I can't run it yet as the thermostat is still off. Will update tomorrow.

Well alternator problem wasn't sorted. Looks like I'm going to have to swap it for another one and see if that's the problem. Hey ho.

Regarding your earlier question Eric, no progress today. I've been changing the whe bearing on the 9n and waiting around for the scrap men to take the rusty coupe away. Will be attacking the gearbox issue again tomorrow

Get it done!

Hmmm, spent most of the day trying to get all 5 gears today to no avail. Ran out of time, but I think I have an idea on how to sort it. Also she seems to be cutting out when warm. It's hard to figure out whether its the battery draining or something else. Guess I'll get the alternator sorted first then investigate. But any ideas why it might cut out when warm? It's not a dead cut out like I've had before with a flat battery but rather it slowly loses power then dies. However, it doesn't crank back up easily, which makes me think its a draining battery. But really if it won't spark, it shouldn't even crank. Hmmmmm.

It's not running lean is it?

Probably, I'm sure he said it was still on the standard jets