Well I've secured a double garage to spray the car in, so thats the next job (once she's running). Full panel off job, inside the boot, re-spray of engine bay, door shuts, panel off job. Going to make a removable slam/front panel too to aid in engine assembly in the future, as well as to cover the damage to the lower valance I've already bought a new HVLP spray gun and machine polisher, and am going to go with a celly and top coat plan as opposed to 2k. 2 reasons - safety first. But also I prefer the look of celly/topcoat. The gloss seems to be much deeper as well as the paint looking more 'period'. 2k, although a pleasure to use, looks a little 'plasticy' on large panels

I've also been reading up on various other coatings recently. Big winter plans, but hopefully musch faster, as it will be a case of removal, coating and refitting. Need to get the workshop set up first though so the process can be efficient.

Edited 19 September, 201213 yr by prankstar2003

If you plan to vinyl wrap avoid it mate, it has a life which isent ''great'' and it looks like a cheap paint job when its done anyway. Good luck though, i'd get it sorted and enjoy it for 12 months before more work though personally :-)

I would too, get the engine sorted and get it MOT'd, enjoy it for a bit, then take it through its next stage.

God no Ben, I'd never wrap a car! As you say, looks pretty gash. Not coatings for the car, but rather for chassis, engine etc. parts. Nothing massively original on the show scene, but all DIY.

I don't want to use the car in the winter, so it's going to sit idle. May as well tear it apart again and get it sorted. The plan was always to respray over the winter, but I was supposd to have had summer use out of it I'm beginning to think I don't really want to finish this project

Cheers for the advice though boys, duly noted will hopefully be mot'd by next week, bought back to mine, prepped and in the 'booth' in 5 weeks. If I can't get it running properly this weekend though, I'm not sure what I'll do. Probably torch it!

Is there any point in getting it MOT'd then? If its not going on the road till next year?

I need to drive it to the garage where I'll be spraying it. Possibly up to a body shop to get a bit of work done on it too, need to see what rust issue is like (pretty good really). And I'd like to just be able to drive it when it's all finished. I see your point though, but £50 a small price to pay for the flexibility of having it on the road

Try another throttle return spring on the carbs

I don't think thats the problem nick. They snap shut nice and rapid. And when I had a beefier spring on before it made no difference. Chatting to my brother, he says its a symptom of unbalanced carbs. It certainly was less noticeable when I had them balanced before. May try as a last resort though

Why what problem have you got now?

Just the hesitation returning to idlle it doesn't drop immediately to 1k, but hovers around 1500 and slowly comes down. They need balancing is all, i hope

My friends "snapped shut" but an extra spring still made it return to idle a lot sooner

Same mine was alot better with a spring

Yeah, as i said, I may hook one up (although its hard to with the airbox on). But i remedied the problem last time by balancing them

Yeah, as i said, I may hook one up (although its hard to with the airbox on). But i remedied the problem last time by balancing them

My friends "snapped shut" but an extra spring still made it return to idle a lot sooner

If the throttle is snapping shut ok, then how is another spring gonna help though?

Too much base ignition advancement also causes a slow return to idle i found, that and an incorrect mixture, balance as you say.

Get on it dude.

Just speaking from actual real life experience as apposed to what iv read on the Internet.

I know, you keep sayign, answer the question!

I've had idle return problems with pretty much every carb conversion i've done, and there all either a small air leak, idle mixture issues or base ignition timing being too advanced. The throttle return spring has always adequately returned the throttle plate to the stop, so i can't see how adding another one, or a stronger one would make a differance.

Enlighten me, if you will homo :-)

I'm not saying its a solition, or the other options arnt either. I'm merely suggesting another, which from experience has stopped the same issue. Same with Eric.

I don't know how it does, it just seems to.

I give up trying to help people.

Hope you get it sorted

May be a touch obvious, but I had a slow return to idle and all I did was lube the throttle linkage on the carbs along with the cable. Have to do it every now and again and it stops the slow return to idle...

Balancing shouldn't really affect it too much...

EDIT: The standard return spring on CBR carbs is pretty savage too! :s

Edited 21 September, 201213 yr by ska_wars

As a guess, maybe the throttle is snapping shut, but not all the way? As obvs the less open it is the less tension is on the springs. So maybe it just helps that little extra

I'm not saying its a solition, or the other options arnt either. I'm merely suggesting another, which from experience has stopped the same issue. Same with Eric.

I don't know how it does, it just seems to.

I give up trying to help people.

Hope you get it sorted

awww is someone in a bad mood?

I'm not saying it wont work (if you look at what i originally put) I'm asking why it would work if throttle is snapping shut properly.

Please don't be mad at me nicky

All I'm saying is that before you go adjusting screws and timing, the minute it takes to stick a spring on to carry out a test it's a no brainer IMO. Also, it's never a bad idea to have another return if the standard one were to fail, or the cable bind up and there not be a enough force to retract it. You may also prefer the throttle pedal feel with the extra resistance.

Like I said max. Have ran two different sets of carbs on a friends car, both snap shut fine, but slow to idle, added a spring both times and it fixed it

The only reason my afh had a return spring was throttle feel

All mostly depends how you set your throttle cable up. In my 16v i had it set up so well that the throttle was way too light.

But the factory spring on the carbs works perfectly fine on the bike which has a simliar cable length and system...

I can't see why you'd need more 'spring'.. For saftey it does make sense (it's part of the MSA hillclimb regs)