This is interesting as I'm at the same stage with my AFK with the head off wanting to take the next step. Not to hi-jack the thread or owt but can the later 6n2 16v heads be skimmed with the valves and cams still in? And if there's anyone generous enough to skim my head for me and check it over I'd be happy to pay if you local?

^ on the later roller rocker heads like those you have to remove the cams before you can even get the head off, also lift out all the hydraulic lifter elements and roller rocker arms... but you can skim the head with all the valves still in

Ah yeah just remembered that the cams are attached to the rocker head. Thanks mate max don't fancy skimming my head for me do you? Lol

tbh mate, by the time you've posted it here (and paid me the cost of sending is back to you) it's not worth it. i doubt it will cost much more than £25-30 anyway to get it done a local place to you

Is there a trick to getting these collets to slot into place easier when refitting the valves?

I've tried dropping them into place then using a tiny screw driver to locate them, I've tried using needle nose pliers and I've tried one of those expendable magnet things. All of which seem to need a lot of luck to help them drop into the right place, is there some kind of industry trick? Or am I just being a pleb and doing it wrong?

You got any pictures of your progress mate? In case I have a go.

Is there a trick to getting these collets to slot into place easier when refitting the valves?

I've tried dropping them into place then using a tiny screw driver to locate them, I've tried using needle nose pliers and I've tried one of those expendable magnet things. All of which seem to need a lot of luck to help them drop into the right place, is there some kind of industry trick? Or am I just being a pleb and doing it wrong?

Cover them in sticky grease

Sam.

You got any pictures of your progress mate? In case I have a go.

I'll get some for you tonight mate, tbh so far its been really straight forward and the only hassle really has been getting the collets back in.

Spanerman i'll try that later mate cheers

Haha collets can be a bitch sometimes, others they will just slot back in.

I just use two screwdrivers usually, one magnetic and one not.

use a dab of vaseline on the inside of the collet and on the tip of a thin flat bladed screwdriver...

the other piece of general advice worth remembering is that if you've had the valves out on any head, make sure the cams will turn before you bolt the head back onto the block, just to make sure there is no jammed valves or any other nasties like that... you will curse if you find out after you've put the head on that you need to take a valve out again

finally got my finger out and put this back together tonight, i used skodaboys trick but used grease instead of Vaseline (couldn't find my Vaseline ), and it was so much easier than trying to do it the other way

all that's left now is to torque the camshafts nuts up, is there a sequence to that? and i don't suppose any one knows these off hand?, only thing a search through up was some one saying they think it might be 25nm + 90degrees "but dont quote me on that."

still got to check the head for warping tho so the cams may still need to be removed again yet, but the valves are all seating properly now cheers every one for your help and advice

Autodata cam carriers/caps 6Nm +90deg Cam pully 20Nm +90deg

Have a look at this for more torque figures

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?...p;#entry2013005

Edited 23 March, 201115 yr by nige8021

so all the nuts holding the cams down are 6nm and the bolt on the end of the cam holding the pulley on is 20? (although i never took the pulley off so that should be fine). just double checking incase i get the wrong end of the stick and fuck some thing up

cheers mate

so all the nuts holding the cams down are 6nm and the bolt on the end of the cam holding the pulley on is 20? (although i never took the pulley off so that should be fine). just double checking incase i get the wrong end of the stick and fuck some thing up

cheers mate

See my modified posting

omg it's like the black death inside that head

you may as well pop the pulleys off and replace the cam oil seals while you are there, you'll be well angry when they start leaking!! they always leak once they've been distrurbed on the AFH heads

Cheers for the heads up on that i'll get them changed while every is still loose. Have you got any tips on how to clean all that shit out? Are there any easy methods or is it just a case of getting an old tooth brush and some elbow grease out?

I've done a Google search and soaking the head in a tub seems to he the easiest way but there are some very conflicting opinions on what chemicals you should use on a alloy head. Soda blasting is also mentioned but I'd rather do it DIY style if possible rather than paying a shop to do it

Edited 24 March, 201115 yr by McLOVIN

best way is to dip it in cresylic acid for a couple of days to literally 'burn' the oil deposits off, but the head needs to be completely stripped to do this and the acid will make mincemeat of the valve stem seals, they will disolve... but you won't be able to buy that stuff for home use...

if you are feeling hard-core pikey style you could always get down your local tip and see if there's any old dishwashers in there and give that a go