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bike carbs on an afh..

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i see peoples point though, the jubilees will apply pressure on the 4 corners of the inlet tube, and simply 'arc' over the flats, meaning a lot less pressure on them, thats what could cause the leak. ideally if the thickness is there yo should file it more round :)

yeah i know i was thinking that too, I'm trying to get them as round as possible, need to take a bit more material off though really so that the hoses dont need to stretch so much, otherwise its gonna be such a pain to fit! let alone run!

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Its not just air leaks you'll experience, chances are you'll need long lengths of rubber/silicon hoses to adapt the spacing of the carbs to the inlet.

Long lengths of this hose will strain them, break them down and possibly break them off completely. Thats if the carbs don't fall out of the silicon hose beforehand due to lack of support ;) The hoses will pulse from the vacuum of the engine's suction, losing you power because the engine isn't sucking as much air as it should.

If the hoses break down you'll have peices of them sucked into your engine, and when they've broke down enough to leak air through, whatever else is floating around your engine bay will be sucked in too! I've been there and experienced all of those things :lol:

At the very least I would say get/make/have someone make a manifold which gives the carbs as much support as possible, with the least strain on whatever method you use to join them to the manifold. The original AFH manifold is probably the worst option :)

get some reinforced silly-cone hose :) it just degrades with fuell

great advice then haha. not that he'll listen ;)

get some reinforced silly-cone hose :) it just degrades with fuell

great advice then haha. not that he'll listen ;)

How is that good advice? Aye, just use this pipe, it only degrades with fuel. Pftt, it's not like that matters. :p

even the short bits of silicone hose you use to join will degrade, using reinforced stuff is ideal, better than flimsy normal stuff, but its like £50 a meter or something, and after a year or two will need changing

  • Author
even the short bits of silicone hose you use to join will degrade, using reinforced stuff is ideal, better than flimsy normal stuff, but its like £50 a meter or something, and after a year or two will need changing

yeahh mine needed changing recently, started getting pretty bad and flimsy, and the carbs kept falling off!

Have you thought about the extra costs involved in this also? You say its costing nothing but your gonna have to pay to get the carbs set up and its only going to be then if you know if the mani is going to work good enough or not, if not they will need setting up again to the new mani once you get one and rolling road setups ain't cheap, probably more than the materials would cost to make a decent mani in the first place

  • Author
Have you thought about the extra costs involved in this also? You say its costing nothing but your gonna have to pay to get the carbs set up and its only going to be then if you know if the mani is going to work good enough or not, if not they will need setting up again to the new mani once you get one and rolling road setups ain't cheap, probably more than the materials would cost to make a decent mani in the first place

i know about setting it up, i already have a bike carbed engine..

manifold is only temporary to see out of curiosity if it actually works, iv ordered the tubing for a new manifold, just trying to find a baseplate. so wont be on there for long.

didnt seem too bad though, but well find out when i try starting it!

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Base plate is rough, but heres just a basic idea of the process incase you were unsure.

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needs welding, but still, this might be useful to someone

  • Author

i know bro I've made one before for an 8v

IMAG0273.jpg

not as neat as yours but yeahh.

cheers for the guide though, think I'm just gonna look for a base plate thats already cut out ect as i dont have the tools to do it anymore :/ i emailed the guy on ebay that makes them just waiting for a reply

I'm making a steel jig to bolt it to when welding it, and having locators for the tubes on it too lol :)

someone i know made one out of ally, was mint, welded up then it wouldnt fit as it shrank!

  • Author
I'm making a steel jig to bolt it to when welding it, and having locators for the tubes on it too lol :)

someone i know made one out of ally, was mint, welded up then it wouldnt fit as it shrank!

qualit-eeeeeeeeee!

should fit on pretty nice then?

hahahaha id be well pissed.. although knowing me id try and file it out to make it fit haha. mr bodgejob should be my name!

haha probably not ally is a right pain dependant on grade, i might mill it flat after too.

hes a really good guy, knows what hes doing, must have just used shit ally for it to shrink haha

need to try find some 1/2'' + thick steel now :(

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ah fair play, will have to wait and see!

yeah thats a bummer haha

ebay is ftw! i bought the tubes for a manifold off there earlier today, £10 :p

Edited by erixtar1992

How did you cut the flange Harris? Looks like you've started with a grinder, but the finished one looks water/laser cut

what lmao? you ought to see it in front of you, can assure you finish isnt that good.

i hacksawed big bits, then chain drilled the fuck out of it, then just filed, needs cleaning up tbh but yeah

I found ally to be the best material?! It hardly deforms at all!

Mild steel is pretty bad but stainless is fucking terrible :thumbsdown:

My stainless one is good. Flange has warped a little, but sits flat once bolted down.

Yeah man, they always bolt flat so its fine, I just meant generally as a material.

  • Author

yeah mine was also warped slightly after welding, seemed fine when on the engine though :)

Edited by erixtar1992

  • Author

the 8v is almost ready to come out now btw :) awesomee!

BUT i dont have a crane so have to think of a genious way of getting it out!! suggestions?

the 8v is almost ready to come out now btw :) awesomee!

BUT i dont have a crane so have to think of a genious way of getting it out!! suggestions?

Quite strong rope, scaffold board or long sturdy piece of wood, tie the rope to the engine and then round the block of wood, 2 blokes one standing either side of the car, block of wood up on the shoulder and lift. Have seen someone do it this way before. Or rent an engine crane probably £30-40 for a whole week.

  • Author
the 8v is almost ready to come out now btw :) awesomee!

BUT i dont have a crane so have to think of a genious way of getting it out!! suggestions?

Quite strong rope, scaffold board or long sturdy piece of wood, tie the rope to the engine and then round the block of wood, 2 blokes one standing either side of the car, block of wood up on the shoulder and lift. Have seen someone do it this way before. Or rent an engine crane probably £30-40 for a whole week.

nice one mate. will probably use that method if i cant get a crane. thanks!

Disassemble engine and remove piece by piece. That won't obviously help with putting the new one in

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