It isn't 3 bar as you won't have a restriction with a t piece

I know it wont generate 3 bar, but its still a pretty high spec pump.

Less flow than the lift though

Lift? Pressure do you mean?

Aye, it should be fine then as long as there's no restriction.

No the lift pump in the tank has a higher flow rate than the high pressure pump

Ah i see, could even disconnect the pressure pump then?

Just use the lift pump to circulate the fuel.

could do .. few people have done it .. That way you could keep ecu etc max .. and the elec advance would still work

I have tried it, using TPS and such but didn't really work out lol. Non VW mind

What "didn't work out"?

I'm thinking after disconnecting all the fuelling side, the ECU will just throw a wobbly and the ignition side of things will fail,

the ignition still advanced with rpm and altered with load, but changing from that to different ignition was bare better

Well a fairly good day with the 'loon, think I'm getting a few steps closer to the problem. Had some help looking over the running issues today, and we've reached the conclusion that it's probably fuel starvation causing the car to splutter and die. At first I thought it was only at W.O.T but further testing has shown it happens at all throttles and loads, it just takes different amounts of times. However, after waiting a few minutes, the car fires back up (although a little hesitantly). Therefore fuel starvation seems to be the logical conclusion. The facet pump used to be mounted by the battery, outwith the recomended height of the instructions, so I have now moved it within 12" of the tank as per recomendations but this has not sorted the problem. The pump is now mounted inside the wing, with a pipe from the 'out' side going through the drainage hole in the scuttle, next to the battery. So my questions are

Should I get a bigger pump, if so, what is recomended?

Should I use larger diameter fuel pipes? I'm thinking no, as the bottleneck is always going to be the outlets at the tank and so larger pipes will actually slow flow. What size should I use? I currently have 1/4 which is near as dammit 6mm (which my lines are).

How should I have my fuel lines arranged? Currently I have the carbs T-d off at the junction (see bad diagram below)

Return

II

II

II

II

II==========Carbs

II

II

II

Tank

I'm thinking this may be the wrong way around, and I did it this way before because my float bowls were overflowing (sticky needle) and reduce pressure to the carbs. However, I can't be 100% this is why I arranged them this way.

Finally, how long, relatively, should my fuel-carb and return lines be? ATM they are roughly equal, with the line to the carbs from the T being slightly loger. Currently, I have the return line going over the battery temporarily to make and 'uphill' section and increase resistance but this hasn't solved the problem

Edited 30 September, 201213 yr by prankstar2003

I'm not entertaining another topic on this.

Looking now, it seems we've lost a vital, comprehensive, info packed topic on bike carbs to the great archive pixel scrapyard in the sky - It was called 'Bike carbs on a 1.3' by someone with a blue MK1 Golf, and was one of the first major topics, and so it was popular.

I put tons of info in there, including info on the fuel transportation system/order you're looking for.

And now it seems to have gone. Why? Because instead of bumping (and bothering to read) greatly informative topics, people keep making new ones to ask the same old shit. So we have all these 2011/2012 two page wonders replacing the knowledge.

Why not bump what we have built, and build on that further?

/rant

/thread

For exactly that reason mikey, I can't find it. And as far as I can remember from when I've read that thread, I have everything correct. But obviously not!

And I'm not sure it goes into detail about fuel line diameter and return line length. Which I'm thinking may be my main problem.

I was hoping you may be a little more helpful actually. As one of the only other people who have run a 1.6 in a mk2 (most seem to be in mk3s) you're in the best position to offer advice on this particular set up. Obviously the mk2 is different in terms of oem pumps compared to the mk3 as it lacks a lift and I'm wondering whether this is having an effect on the fuelling as the demands are higher than the 1.3s most people run. I'm grasping at straws here

Bike pump.

Simple as fuck.

Why? What if the bike pump doesn't provide the fuel quickly enough? I have considered one, but I'm not sure what it's going to offer in place of my facet. Do you use a bike pump Nick?

Bike pump provides plenty of fuel, only when needed. So when the float bowls are full the pump will stop.

Means u dont need a return line so you wont piss all your fuel away back into the tank.

What id suggest for now is swapping the carbs and return line on the t piece, so the carbs are the easiest route

Right, as I though Eric. They switch off when full. I'm not sure my bowls ever get full when its running!

Thanks for the confirmation of the t-piece location, had a feeling it was the wrong way round

I have a y piece on mine, but i rotated it so the return line goes above the carbs to cause the restriction, they fill up pretty damn quick and thats with only a 3 psi pump

I thought I had a blockage in my return line, so I diconnected it and had it open to jar. It was pissing in there proper quickly, so i can't see much getting to the bowls at all. I'll swap mine around and I may shorten the line to the carbs too. Hopefully this should sort the problem.

The bike pump just flows, low pressure. Pressure build up (float needles sealing) just stops the pump.

I have a bike pump, fuel being dragged through a lift pump which isn't connected, throug the standard 6mm outlet to the 10mm on carbs.

Holds a flat stable AFR at high throttle/rpm for long periods with no struggle to meet demand etc.

So easy.

One pipe. 2 wires. Done

You've bunned the lift pump then? So essentially the same as a mk2 set up? This may be the way forward then if this facet won't work.

I'm still not 100% its the bowls going dry, but it seems the most logical explanation. I didn't have a screw driver at the time the car died, or else I would have tried to drain the bowls to check for fuel.

I'm guessing you bumped your earlier thread for my benefit. But the one piece of info I'm after, you couldn't comment on It was the bit about the direction of the T-piece

I have the pump there, just does nothing, fuel can be drawn through it unlike a 6n sender unit, so it's effectively just a pick up.

Iv read countless times about how to put t pieces.

How are you struggling so much? It's rich but now it has starvation???

I'm using a bike pump ... Once the fuel is in the bowls it will click on every so often ..

Think of the rev range of a bike. And how much more air is needed .. Therefor more air = more fuel .

Although it doesnt have the weight to pull it can still supply the demand ..

I have the pump there, just does nothing, fuel can be drawn through it unlike a 6n sender unit, so it's effectively just a pick up.

Iv read countless times about how to put t pieces.

How are you struggling so much? It's rich but now it has starvation???

I've read a t-piece can be used, but can't find which way to put it

It seems its so rich, it empties the bowls even on part open throttle where the mains are barely involved! Mixture screws are backed out 3 turns aswell in an attempt to lean out the mixture. It's not as rich as it was, though the smell of unburnt is still a little strong!

3 turns out is rich!

Mine are only 1.5!