They're all similar tbh.

Even an r1 prob has same pump as a 400.

Got a CBR 600 pump on a 2.0 16v fiesta too, be fine.

It's so simple it's funny

Eric do you even know which way turning the screws effects the mixtur

Guessing the further out is the more rich, mine stopped smelling like fuel on idle after

It's alright eric, I though the same! Moving the screws out adds air, not fuel.

Nick, it does indeed seem bike pumps are the way forward.

yeah bike pumps. Preety much all same .. Mistubizuiuiuudidusidushiii ones ..

They switch off and on from demand so not much point off having diff ones on bikes lol

Standard factory set-up:

Tank --- filter --- mech pump --- swirl pot outlet1 --- carb. Swirl pot outlet2 --- tank.

My set up:

Tank --- filter --- Facet road electric pump --- T-piece outlet1 --- carbs. T-piece outlet2 --- tank.

T-piece simply replaced the swirl pot as you can see. And electric pump replaced the mechanical one basically because the later engine wouldn't run a mech one, plus i wanted fast flow with not too much power. The back pressure in the return line between carbs and tank is quite high, and that makes for the pressure against the carbs. I later replaced the T-piece with the swirl pot to assist carb supply speed when the 1.6 16v was getting the T-piece method to the limit of what it could supply.

You need little pressure, but a fair speed. So regulators aren't great for this. People have had excellent results from using a bike pump, makes sense, probably best because an electric pump needs a safety isolation - i used an inertia switch from a Ford Sierra EFi but an oil pressure activated one is better, because the fuel pump doesn't rob power from the starter motor when starting the car.

Placements on mine - tank and fuel lines to bay are stock, filter/pump/inertia by heater matrix and fuse box, T-piece or swirl pot behind carbs.

A couple of pictures..

Pump and inertia (with me holding ignition plug in picture)

Pump with Facet filter - but i stabbed the steel gauze to just use it as a fitting, i've used a normal paper filter instead (few inches before it, not shown)

T-piece supplying carbs

Anyone reading this who got to it via the FAQ, well done! Sorry there's loads missing from old members/efforts i can't retrieve. Feel free to bump this topic if it's over a year old!

Edited 5 October, 201213 yr by MikeyMK

I have an inertia switch wired as part of the switching circuit on my fuel pump relay.

Generally when I switch ignition on, the bike pump clicks once or twice then doesn't again til it's running, can drive about 0.5 miles before it starts to hesitate (float bowls running dry).

Does yours really struggling starting that much then, like need so much electrical assistance?

I jus fitted a slim starter to mine and everyone comments how bad they are? I know my compression isn't as high, around 10.5-10.8:1 IIRC, but it's still got a longer stroke.

But anyway. It's flawless with the slim starter, and the fact when you crank a relay knocks virtually every circuit out anyway it seems fine.

I do however have the best CCA rated battery I could find for size & upgraded starter cables. I'll get a video in a second from cold start being left over night..

Been sat overnight, cold start. Ignore epic noises, loads of stuff rattling in door cards! (with choke)

http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/ae114/h...2F144C20FDE.mp4

Normal start (no choke) not really up to temp mind, only about 70 deg coolant temp..

http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/ae114/h...2F153FDBF16.mp4

Merged the two fuelling topics and tried to make them readable.

Nick you are fuel gauge goes up quick lol

Been sat overnight, cold start. Ignore epic noises, loads of stuff rattling in door cards! (with choke)

http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/ae114/h...2F144C20FDE.mp4

Normal start (no choke) not really up to temp mind, only about 70 deg coolant temp..

http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/ae114/h...2F153FDBF16.mp4

LMFAO "SIMPLES"

Love you nick xx

Slim starter FTW, decent fuel pump FTW, AFR gauge & setup carbs FTW

Booom!

What problems were you having with the original starter? Slow cranking?

No problems, just a mk4 starter has the wrong throw on the pinion for the mk3 fly.

THIS IS A FUELLING THREAD shsh

If u make return slightly bigger it wouldnt casue as much pressure on the carbs ?

Well still not sorted. I think I may have the underfuelling sorted by re-plumbing the fuel lines. However, and I had this problem last week, but intermitently, the carbs (right hand pair) will overflow out of the breather between the two carbs. I thought it was a minor obstruction in the return line, however, it seems to have returned. The fuel is only a dribble, and if I leave it long enough, it kills the engine. After doing this, the carb (number 3) sounds like it breathing. Thats the only way I can describe it, it actually sounds like a dying persons last breath! I have traced the sound to fuel being the upper side of the butterfly (wrong side) and pooling over one of the drillings in the throat, and as air comes back out of the drilling, it bubbles through creating a burbbling sound. However, because the problem is intermitent, I'm stuggling to determine the cause. How would fuel get that side of the buttlerfly, it must be coming back up the drilling right? Why? I'm sure the floats are moving as they should. Too much fuel pressure? But its onlt through one breather. I'm thinking there's something up with carb 3?

Also going to try some leaner jets, both pilot and mains as these are far too rich

Mine used to sound like it was breathing when you turned it off, genuinely like there was a man, likely a heavy smoker around 47 years old under the bonnet. That was the float bowl breathers being blocked, which also caused excessive rich running.

Don't see how you can say the jets are too big. Nobody else really changes pilots and doesn't have this issue man

Have you got a spare set of carburettors simon?

Float bowls on one of those carbs not sealing or something? Or a dodgy o-ring?

Ah, then Nick, that sounds exactly like I have. Looks like I'm having these carbs apart again. I'm eating to change jets because it's rich. Thought you said your's was the same? If not, how did you lean it out? It's rich through the range, not just top. Really smells of unburnt fuel

Max; nope, no spares

I'll check the floats Eric, that was my first thought

Mine was really rich, hesitating and cutting out it was choking itself up. I went down FORTY main jet sizes and no improvement.

Literally because I'd connected the bowl breathers to my return fuel line - but yours are open to atmosphere :s

Maybe your carbs need love?

This is great man!

What's great?

Nick: when you say breathers, do you mean the plastic pipes coming from the top? I'm not talking about mains, but pilots. It's proper rich and the plugs are stupidly black! Plus I don't need to use the choke, which is a sure sign it's too rich, especially considering how cold it was yesterday when I has her running. First turn of the key and she fired :-0 this however doesnt solve the over flowing issue. Beginning to think my 'bargain' carbs were a bit of a basket case

Tbh for £40 odd I'd buy another set, spares are always useful.

Find it hard to believe your pilots are too rich when nobody else's are

Could be that something has perished and un-metred fuel is being delivered somehwhere,

Whats actually being changed from standard on the carbs?