i dont get how both are snapped, if one snaps then surely you stop and start undoing?

Ahhwell, we all make stupid mistakes... Easy fix though dude, new studs and fanny's you are aunt

Yeah must have over torqued still tbh lol. Easily changed though, ask VW ???????

max could you please bring that mk2 afm

Didnt have to re write that mikey and add the anticlockwise at end ..

Its commen sense haha

You say that, but..

My torque wrench was set correctly and I was doing quarter turns , and oops.

I rest my case.

Quarter fkin turns!?

On the faq it says quarter turns !

i dont get how both are snapped, if one snaps then surely you stop and start undoing?

Ahhwell, we all make stupid mistakes... Easy fix though dude, new studs and fanny's you are aunt

Because they're bearing caps, that's why. Not fkn head bolts.

They need 25 newtons and that's it. Which i can pull with my little finger.

I know it's not rocket science but it helps if you can read a book..

Want the part number for the stud?

You know then its the correct rating and that the shoulder doodar is right.

i dont get how both are snapped, if one snaps then surely you stop and start undoing?

Ahhwell, we all make stupid mistakes... Easy fix though dude, new studs and fanny's you are aunt

Because they're bearing caps, that's why. Not fkn head bolts.

They need 25 newtons and that's it. Which i can pull with my little finger.

I know it's not rocket science but it helps if you can read a book..

25 newtons? Really?

What happened to them being 10? Or 6+90'?

Mikey man whatever drugs they have you on I think they're stressing you out

6+90 or 25 for an M8, whatever. But you could double that and not snap two in a row - are we being told here that two M8 studs were given 6nm + half a turn, and snapped?

Strife - link/quote where you got this info?

No.

The faq was mistyped and said 65NM.

No.

The faq was mistyped and said 65NM.

FFS you just can't get the staff..

DONT RELY ON WHAT YOU SEE ON THE WEB

Duh

Haynes say a straight 20 for most M8 bearing cap nuts, i do 25 as for studs/bolts universally, 6+half a turn is too specific to length to be useful universally.

I suppose it's easy for the experienced to say you just wouldn't do it that tight without stopping and thinking something is wrong, but for the inexperienced working with metal stretch tolerances.. well how are they meant to know.

Seems instead of reading something wrong, it was instead printed wrong. Apologies to Dart Strife if this is the case.

Fact still remains though, that those studs are easy for anyone to remove, my gran could do it.

Tbh 6nm + 90 doesnt feel too clever anyway, I'd imagine 20 odd would be sufficient, once they're clamped down that's it, metal on metal, as long as it doesn't come undone or isn't so lose there could be any risk of bearing cap movement

Best to nip both sides of all the caps before torquing them, too. When the whole cam is down,all those valve springs push pretty hard.. But yeah i'm sure 20 is fine, it's commonly recommended (just looking at MK2 Golf and Scirocco manuals, 20 there).

This is the most informative couple of off-topic pages in a while, me thinks.

Removing

– Remove camshaft pulley. When loosening camshaft toothed belt pulley bolt, hold with counterhold tool -3036-.

– Remove rear toothed belt guard.

– Remove cylinder head cover.

– Remove ignition distributor.

– First remove bearing caps 5, 1 and 3.

– Loosen bearing caps 2 and 4 alternately and diagonally.

Installing

l The pistons must not be positioned at TDC.

Note Observe installation position of bearing cap: wider casting -arrow A- towards inlet side and number on bearing cap -arrow B- is legible from exhaust side.

– Oil camshaft contact surfaces.

– Insert camshaft.

– Tighten bearing caps 2 and 4 alternately and diagonally to 6 Nm.

– Lightly coat contact surfaces of bearing caps 1 and 5 with sealant -AMV 174 004 01-.

– Install bearing caps 3, 1, and 5 and tighten to 6 Nm. Insert ignition distributor to centralise bearing cap 5.

– Tighten all nuts 1/4 turn (90°) further.

– Insert bolts for bearing cap 5 and tighten to 10 Nm.

Further assembly is basically a reverse of the dismantling procedure.

How to install toothed belt and adjust valve timing → Chapter.

Note When new bucket tappets have been installed the engine must not be started for about 30 minutes. Hydraulic compensation elements must settle (otherwise valves will strike pistons).

It's ok mike , I guess you are moody because your couch ridden lol . Get me your gran an I will treat her to a worthers original iff she will do it 4 me lol .I'm going to try an sort it later

Nige can you put on the next chapter 4 timing and new toothed belt ?

Nige can you put on the next chapter 4 timing and new toothed belt ?

I've lost track of what engine you have ??

Here is the earlier 8 valve with the waterpump used to tension the belt

For the later 8 valves with a seperate belt tensioner

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?...p;#entry1883123

its a mk3 bud, cheers will read them, i got the studs out earlier, so need new studs, does any one know the part number or profiles ect ? i think they are possibly M7 ? as the exhaust ones are M8 and they are to fat.

(13) 030103397A stud M7X45 / Listed @ 1.85 €uros ea

(14) N 10045301 hexagonal nut M7 / 0.19 €uros ea

You have prices there , were from ?

do we get cheaper entry if we're on the stand? haha

You have prices there , were from ?

Those are the price from VW Stealers, but the price in €uros is nothing like the UK price, as normal we get ripped off with higher prices!!

I've got some spare if you want them dark_strife