Cams duration is measured in the amount of crankshaft degrees the valves are open, so it cant be anything to do with the different design of valvetrain.

It might be! Hydro tappets have that cushioning which means their lobes can be sharper. The solid lifters might need a more gentle lobe shape to stop them wearing or fracturing due to the shock at every revolution. That rounder lobe shape would in turn make the duration longer in correlation with whatever lift the cam has.

Thats my theory anyway :-D

Cams duration is measured in the amount of crankshaft degrees the valves are open, so it cant be anything to do with the different design of valvetrain.

It might be! Hydro tappets have that cushioning which means their lobes can be sharper. The solid lifters might need a more gentle lobe shape to stop them wearing or fracturing due to the shock at every revolution. That rounder lobe shape would in turn make the duration longer in correlation with whatever lift the cam has.

Thats my theory anyway :-D

What spec was your engine again arun? :-)

Thats a good point the pair of you. Longer durations are used to make up for poor lift. Equally Arun you may be on to something. I've always thought the mech cams don't look 'pointy' enough

The lobe size is limited by how the camshaft is fitted - It goes in through the dizzy end of the head so the lobes can't be much bigger (if at all) than the radius of the bearings.

I've played with a few. I had one 'done up' on my early mk2. It had a HH originally and I wanted it to look original (ish!)

ABD bottom end converted to square tooth

GL head (that's a mk2 1043 mechanical head, same as HK)

Schrick 280 cam. Lift is apparently 7.5mm but this is multiplied some amount by the tappet action.

Schick double valve springs - they are the same as 8v tall block ones on these engines.

36.2mm inlet valves (pinto exhaust valves apparently) Standard size is 34mm

New tappets (noisy as fuck til they bedded in)

Head was ported by impulse developments in rochdale.

3 angle valve seats, new guides etc

Some info on schrick cams I got of a guy at schrick:

Ref.no.:

013 01 800-03

Duration int./exh.: 280°/280°

Peak angle: 113°

cam lift: 7.5mm

013 01 920-01

Duration int./exh.: 292°/288°

Peak angle: 107°

cam lift int./exh.: 7.6mm/7.4mm

013 01 160-00

Duration int./exh.: 316°/316°

Peak angle: 102°

cam lift int./exh.: 8.0mm/8.0mm

Wel looking at the linear displacement of the cam lobe, and the actual lift at the valve, the rocker ratio is 1:1.1

So your 280* newman with its lift of 8mm, would give a valve lift of 8.8mm, which sounds about right!

The 284* newman has 8.7mm of lift, or something like that.

Regarding;

Schick double valve springs - they are the same as 8v tall block ones on these engines.

Which ones are these?

There we are max, the pinto valves. Knew I'd seen that somewhere.

Gaz, any idea if yiu can use anything to open the exhaust valves out a bit?

Cams duration is measured in the amount of crankshaft degrees the valves are open, so it cant be anything to do with the different design of valvetrain.

It might be! Hydro tappets have that cushioning which means their lobes can be sharper. The solid lifters might need a more gentle lobe shape to stop them wearing or fracturing due to the shock at every revolution. That rounder lobe shape would in turn make the duration longer in correlation with whatever lift the cam has.

Thats my theory anyway :-D

What spec was your engine again arun? :-)

Ask Gaz! ^^

Its his old HH. Nothing internally changed, just a good decking of the head and a metal 6N headgasket to increase the CR.

Everything I've done is external to the block.

Currently polo GT injection including the AFM I bought off yourself Max :-) Nothing else fitted performance wise except for a G40 exhaust I suppose. Was a brilliant engine whilst it was in my white Golf, but now its in my blue Golf it's refusing to start

Someone needs to start remanufacturing the spray bars because they are the only weak point on these engines! Max if you could machine the first elbow which feeds the spray bar I could make the rest

Why are they a weak point?

Well looking at the linear displacement of the cam lobe, and the actual lift at the valve, the rocker ratio is 1:1.1

So your 280* newman with its lift of 8mm, would give a valve lift of 8.8mm, which sounds about right!

The 284* newman has 8.7mm of lift, or something like that.

Regarding;

Schick double valve springs - they are the same as 8v tall block ones on these engines.

Which ones are these?

I've no idea on the exhaust valves there are 32mm valves out there I've seen a 37/32 conversion on one of these heads which was going on a 1.6 ABU bottom end on the Pitstop forum. The guy was dutch I think, I bought the cam off him as I recall, in about 2006.

Valve springs, part numbers are: 078 109 623 A (outer) 078 109 633 A (inner) As far as I can tell everything 8v and tall block petrol (also including 1.6 diesels) used them from the mk1 golf/etc right through to mid mk3

Why are they a weak point?

The plastic elbows break. Luckily they aren't what feed the cam bearings like a shitty Fiat engine so they aren't essential, but they do spray the cam lobes so it's still important.

Edited 13 December, 201213 yr by Phataz1

Why are they a weak point?

They can block if the oil's not regularly changed but the main problem is the plastic mounts that hold them in place. They can get bittle and snap, or people snap them when they remove them to do the valve clearances or whatever. I've got a few spare metal bars but very few plastic mounts. I did try and get spray bars from VW about 7 years ago but they were long obsolete even then.

The HH I had that was all I did - the headgasket as preventative maintenance as I'd no idea when it'd been done last. It was a good engine but I could never get it to fuel right on the weber. It made 76bhp at a CP RR day one year on a DMTR. I nearly GT'd it and put the 280 in 'til a 1.4 came up.

I am a bit paranoid about the spray bar I keep taking the cap off with the engine running to see if the oil's still getting to the lobes at the no.4 end as they are only fed from no.1 end I think?

Schrick ventilfedern

Same guys I bought them from. I also bought some H section rods from them for a 1.6 I was gonna do but they were too wide (1.8T ones I think) Sent them back about 2 years after I bought them and they still refunded me, I even made a profit as they refunded me in euros.

Why are they a weak point?

They can block if the oil's not regularly changed but the main problem is the plastic mounts that hold them in place. They can get bittle and snap, or people snap them when they remove them to do the valve clearances or whatever. I've got a few spare metal bars but very few plastic mounts. I did try and get spray bars from VW about 7 years ago but they were long obsolete even then.

The HH I had that was all I did - the headgasket as preventative maintenance as I'd no idea when it'd been done last. It was a good engine but I could never get it to fuel right on the weber. It made 76bhp at a CP RR day one year on a DMTR. I nearly GT'd it and put the 280 in 'til a 1.4 came up.

I am a bit paranoid about the spray bar I keep taking the cap off with the engine running to see if the oil's still getting to the lobes at the no.4 end as they are only fed from no.1 end I think?

Dont know about them being fed from one end, but that would be a ridiculous bit of design!

Does anyone know the power bands for the schrick cams? and which ones require valve cut outs in the pistons?

Some real golden info in this thread guys

Sent you text Arun we need to get that Golf running. I think I need to give it a stern warning, not that it worked with mine haha!

Edited 15 December, 201213 yr by Winston

Does anyone know the power bands for the schrick cams? and which ones require valve cut outs in the pistons?

Some real golden info in this thread guys

Sent you text Arun we need to get that Golf running. I think I need to give it a stern warning, not that it worked with mine haha!

It all depends on the spec of cam, with bigger lifts and duration the power band will be pushed further up the rev range.

I'd guessed that man. all the hydro rev ranges are listed on most cam websites. I'm just wondering what the 284* newman cam would be like. I ideally would want around 3/4-8k power band.

What could a standard HK bottom end rev too safely?

I've found a sorg 296* cam if that would interest you max? Its quite cheap at the moment and finishes on sunday.

Sorry to spam but it keeps the thread in the line light haha

Edited 15 December, 201213 yr by Winston

I'd guessed that man. all the hydro rev ranges are listed on most cam websites. I'm just wondering what the 284* newman cam would be like. I ideally would want around 3/4-8k power band.

What could a standard HK bottom end rev too safely?

I've found a sorg 296* cam if that would interest you max? Its quite cheap at the moment and finishes on sunday.

Sorry to spam but it keeps the thread in the line light haha

No worries man, as long as its constructive and useful.

Ill have a look on eBay now mate

I'd guessed that man. all the hydro rev ranges are listed on most cam websites. I'm just wondering what the 284* newman cam would be like. I ideally would want around 3/4-8k power band.

What could a standard HK bottom end rev too safely?

I've found a sorg 296* cam if that would interest you max? Its quite cheap at the moment and finishes on sunday.

Sorry to spam but it keeps the thread in the line light haha

No worries man, as long as its constructive and useful.

Ill have a look on eBay now mate

By the way winston, the newman camshafts come with there own brand new lifters!

Also, ill message david and see if there would be a discount if we arranged a group buy!

I've got Pinto (or Transit) exhaust valves as inlet valves too.

36mm x 110.6mm X 8mm triple collet groove.

Think originals are 7.95 diameter and 110.5mm. The guides needed careful hand-reaming.

Type1 Beetle might provide a 32 x 8 x 111 exhaust valve.

RTE Sport offer 38mm and 32mm valves, but say they are 105 x 8?

Doubt you can wind the rocker arm adjustment down 5mm.

Perhaps they use lash caps (or smaller guides)?

Indeed. they do offer 'Einstellkappen.'

dvderlm: did you need new valve seats or did they just regrind your old ones? Also, are the beetle valves triple collet? And finally, is there enough meat between the seats to allow larger valves?

Dvderlm , any pictures or specs of the setup?

dvderlm: did you need new valve seats or did they just regrind your old ones? Also, are the beetle valves triple collet? And finally, is there enough meat between the seats to allow larger valves?

Picture and the thread with the correct dimensions.

Don't trust my memory, but I'm not far off.

Seats were simply ground. They are German hardened seats not Leyland jelly.

Which is why introducing unleaded fuel in Germany was so easy.

Enough meat? Might depend on the skill of your head machinist.

Mine thought 36.2/29.1mm was adequate for n/a.

You'll probably need piston pockets for 38/32 or 37/33 with good lift cam anyway.

With 34 to 37mm inlets and BOOST, 31mm exhaust is thought sufficient.

Anyone know of 31 or 32 mm sodium-filled 110x8 valves?

Not sure about the beetle valves triple colletness?

Edited 16 December, 201213 yr by dvderlm

Fantastic,

I've not gonna be able to go with the bigger valves yet as i don't have time to sort it out.

I'm gonna do the port work myself, and see if I've got man enough tools to improve the valve shape.

Have you ran the engine with the bigger valves?

Amazing stuff. Exactly what this thread was for Maximus. Sticky anyone?

"turbopolo" sent me these...

http://www.dj-art-productions.de/polo/aufbaustory/87.jpg

http://forum.polomagazin.de/thread.php?threadid=16129