He's going to yours nick? wtf haha

You need to locate the wire for the fuel pump (cant remember the colour, you should have kept MK3 fuse box) in the engine bay.

You then get a relay, use ignition live off of coil as a switch for fuel pump and wire it that way (thats how i (Jamie) did mine)

You can then use original wring for a facet and your lift pump will still work.

Although people tell me the lift pump is enough, i don't know anyone that's actually ran with just a lift pump.

Wires confuzzle the shit out of me not gonna lie, I couldn't tell the difference between a brown and red wire today - hate being colour blind!

Cheers though dude but yeah the fuse has changed now so not sure what well do facet is looking the best way in fairness

Edited 9 March, 201313 yr by matt-c

Although people tell me the lift pump is enough, i don't know anyone that's actually ran with just a lift pump.

Me!

The lift pump has a higher flow rate than the SPI injection pump, if youre running a t piece you dont need a pump capable of pressure really as there is no restriction to build up pressure, it will just flow in a loop around and around, i really cant see why using the lift pump alone with a t piece would be a problem, but i havnt actually tried it myself.

Made a start on my instrument panel, but of a prototype might change it about

Will have an oil pressure gauge in at a later date, and possibly my horn as it need re wiring anyway for the mot.

Picked up a drive shaft last night too so its all good

Edited 11 March, 201313 yr by matt-c

This is what my life has come too...

This has made my day haha!

yayyyyyyy!!

bring on saturday ha

Yeah mate! She's going to be running hopefully!!

As far as I'm aware this is the last piece if the puzzle!

Drill and tap one of the unions in the inlet tomorrow for the brake servo get that on,

Then:

Change the rocker gasket

Fit carbs and fuel lines accelerator choke etc

Wire fuel pump to ignition (with switch too)

Fit radiator

Adjust gear linkage

Fit driveshaft

Timing etc

Fit exhaust properly

Block lambda sensor hole

Means nothing to no one but I wanted to keep a note

Edited 14 March, 201313 yr by matt-c

good luck changing that rocker gasket

if the old one is still all molded in mine took me about 8 hours to clear it all out properly

a nights work

Id say get a correct size pipe welded on then drilled out so its not restricting any air flow on the inside of the manifold ..

Could upset the balance of the carbs a little ..In theory anyway if the tappins produing into the mani

good luck changing that rocker gasket

if the old one is still all molded in mine took me about 8 hours to clear it all out properly

Yep already done but I tried to use gasket sealant and I'm not convinced it will work so I bought a new gasket, so it'll be fine :)

a nights work

Id say get a correct size pipe welded on then drilled out so its not restricting any air flow on the inside of the manifold ..

Could upset the balance of the carbs a little ..In theory anyway if the tappins produing into the mani

Oh really? Could I not use that fuel union then grind it flush on the inside with a 10mm belt sander or something? Or at least take a fair wack out so its not protruding massively? Haven't got a welder at hand currently but do have a machine shop at work ... Ill see how I get one with the method I've stated and use what you say and try to remove any restriction internally on the inlet,

Cheers

good luck changing that rocker gasket

if the old one is still all molded in mine took me about 8 hours to clear it all out properly

Yep already done but I tried to use gasket sealant and I'm not convinced it will work so I bought a new gasket, so it'll be fine :)

a nights work

Id say get a correct size pipe welded on then drilled out so its not restricting any air flow on the inside of the manifold ..

Could upset the balance of the carbs a little ..In theory anyway if the tappins produing into the mani

Oh really? Could I not use that fuel union then grind it flush on the inside with a 10mm belt sander or something? Or at least take a fair wack out so its not protruding massively? Haven't got a welder at hand currently but do have a machine shop at work ... Ill see how I get one with the method I've stated and use what you say and try to remove any restriction internally on the inlet,

Cheers

Yeah could do mate.. Just the easiest way tbf .. IF you pop into a exhause shop they'll do it for fuckk all really.. Just seems the easiest and best way ..

u know its not gonna fall out or anything in the future then lol

I drill/tapped the inlet today basically all I've done is shorten the thread to about 3mm and put it in with some locktite

Well jacked the car up to tighten a load of bolts I new where loose

Realised the down pipe was touching the arb so removed that to compare it with a 5 speed one:

Absolutely no different - balls! Need some blocks

Anyway just getting my filthy carbs sorted ready to mount in the morning

(Just a mock up, I know I'm missing jubilee clips)

Also made a nice simple carbon switch board for the centre console with a hole for the oil pressure gauge when it arrives

And the back

Basically has on it

Oil pressure gauge (hole)

Switch for fuel pump

Choke

Horn

Edited 2 April, 201313 yr by matt-c

why dont u use the horn on the wheel :s

IMO the horn button needs to be rigged up to something stupidly loud with at least two simultaneous tones.

Because the momo boss I have for my wheel doesn't really work on the car its from my old mk3 golf

So it saves me buying another boss which I will do eventually but proberbly not before my mot as I have more important things to buy at the moment.

Pretty silly and unpractical but I never use my horn anyway I prefer winding down the winding and hurling abuse

it may be because you need to pull the little strip out slighly on the steering coloumn so it actually touches the boss.

fucked around with mine for months to get it to work and then finally realised it was that.. ha

Haha yeah I know what you mean but its weird it doesn't have the little back plate copper thing on the boss like their meant too its literally hollow haha

The arb will move away from the down pipe when it's got weight on it again

And just a lil tip I like todo, when tightening and suspension components with bushes I like to have the weight of the car on them so the rubber gets tightend in the right place of you get me? Otherwise it could rip/split easier.

Good shout! Although it was on the floor when the 4 speed one was touching - hammer time!

Reason the carbs and that look shit is because eventually ill have a full aluminium manifold made and have it polished aswell as some fresh carbs but if these get me back on the road I'm happy. As I want to be at springfest!

Well this happened today:

Fit the 5 speed ARB ( no different to the 4 speed)

Changed the driveshaft

Fit the inlet/carbs

Blocked lambda sensor

Adjust gear linkage

Changed rocker gasket yesterday

Left to do

Attach choke/accelerator to carbs

Fit coolant hoses

Wire fuel pump to ignition (where in relation to the fuse board is the fuel pump wires)

Few other little jobs

I hate cars :(

Only photos I got and they were from this morning now has washer bottle radiator arb ht leads etc ill get another picture tomorrow

looking good mehtttt.

switch panel is safe, looks nicer being a bit plainer, iv got fire extinguisher cable and 3 switches, bit tight really.