Nice work fella!

Il be referring back to this post very soon.

Keep up the good work!

Been a very productive day today.

I managed to removed the fuel pipes for the in-line pump from the donor car. Lucklly I didn't have to drop the tank just loosen it, but working out how do do that was a pain. I undid the strap and nothing happened untill I noticed there is a small nut at the back of the tank!!! Anyway with enough wiggle I managed to removed the Pump.

Once that was done I fed the wiring though for the rear fuel pumps and tied the in

Next job was to put together the rest of the front end with the goodridge braided pipes and I gave the arches a good clean... mud and dirt = un-needed weight

Jobs left to do....

Fill with coolent.

Fit the rear fuel pumps and lines

Fit rear axel

Run cable from the coil to the rev counter

and I think thats it!! :)

naughty rubber dude!!!!! what size are the tyres?

naughty rubber dude!!!!! what size are the tyres?

Ha ha indeed.. :-D

They are 185/55/14.

Pointless post just to say the car is now back on the ground with the front end all done....

.... apart from fixing up the anti-roll bar!

oh dear lord i may have just wet myself

making real good progress man, that had better not be a floor carpet i see in the back? that must be all of 2kilos there!

oh dear lord i may have just wet myself

making real good progress man, that had better not be a floor carpet i see in the back? that must be all of 2kilos there!

Cheers... its only taken me a few months!!! :-D

No actually its even worse... its sound deadening.. it will be coming out but its a right bastard so I thought I would leaving it in for now!! :-)

Well today started off well and then tailed off to the end...

Well I woke to find this...

... so I knew it would be a cold one...

I started off by pushing the G-Lader rear bushes.

Then I started spraying all the nuts and bolts with WD40 and gave them time to soak in.

I then started undoing stuff

this is when the first bad thing happened. I snapped one of the rear brake lines.. :( So i had to remove it all the way back to the master cylinder. and as the other one looked a bit ropey too I decided that it might be best to replace both of them.

I then found thins....

... any idea if its an MOT fail?

After a big cry i carried on..

Started by removing the bolts from the rear shocks

The shaft on the left one kept spinning so out came the mole grips..

Supported by the jack as it was lowered

The front pivot bolts were then undone.

And then pulled it from the car

which left this

For the rest of the day I have been struggling to try and get the pipes up to the top of the tank. I can't find any way to push them up and and I couldn't feed anything down from the top so I could pull them through so I think the only way I am able to do it is to lower the tank .. :( So far I have undone the nuts but it fails to drop.. So that's what it on the list for tomorrow!!

Finally I got the wheels back from the garage :-D

I'm thinking they would prob look better over 6.5j wheels but these will do for now!

I think that rust may be an MOT failure. Corrosion within 30cm of seatbelt mounting point! And you can definatly feed something down the side of the tank to tie to the fuel line and pull them back up. I did it on my brothers car! I used an old piece of speaker cable!

I think that rust may be an MOT failure. Corrosion within 30cm of seatbelt mounting point! And you can definatly feed something down the side of the tank to tie to the fuel line and pull them back up. I did it on my brothers car! I used an old piece of speaker cable!

Bugger.. but as its the rear arch and I don't have any rear seats or seat belts would it still fail? I have no Idea how to fix this properly.. as its quite substantial. thinking about the TV shows i have seen I believe that I'll have to cut off the lower half of the arch and weld on a new one. Is this what will need to be done?

CHeers...

Is it not possible to weld a steel plate over it on both ends?

-N-

I don't think there is enough good metal at the bottom of the wing to weld to...

I think that rust may be an MOT failure. Corrosion within 30cm of seatbelt mounting point! And you can definatly feed something down the side of the tank to tie to the fuel line and pull them back up. I did it on my brothers car! I used an old piece of speaker cable!

Bugger.. but as its the rear arch and I don't have any rear seats or seat belts would it still fail? I have no Idea how to fix this properly.. as its quite substantial. thinking about the TV shows i have seen I believe that I'll have to cut off the lower half of the arch and weld on a new one. Is this what will need to be done?

CHeers...

I dont think they will see it that way. As far as there concerned if its within one of the prescribed areas then its a fail! I think it would be a case of having part of the arch cut out and a new piece welded in. Best thing to do is go to a garage that welds and get a quote! If you just say you want the welding done and no paint work etc then it wont be hugely expensive! Best thing to do is get the car to a point where it can go for its MOT and see if it fails! Because at the moment you dont know if it will for certain!

On Sunday I carried on with my car quest...

First action was to feed the fuel lines up to the top of the tank. I tried this on Saturday but no luck, but after being told it could be done with some speaker wire this is what I did.

After dancing around with joy for a min or 2 I set forth to run the pipes to the font of the tank so I could connected them to the other fuel lines.. Using the speaker wire method it wasn't a problem..

Now if you want to know why you need to the the GT fuel lines then here it is...

.. the left one is the std coupe S lines

Next was the rear Axel.

Lifted by using the jack

And then hammering into place. which is not as easy as it sounds.

Then to add the shocks (which I now realise I have put on the wrong way round)

And to top the weekend off...... :-D

I was so shattered last night I was in bed by 9.30

List of stuff left to do.

-Fix Hole in arch

-Loop the old in-let and out-let pipes on tank

-Spin the shocks

-fit new rear brake pipes

-tighten draveshafts and CV joints

-fill coolant

-swap fan/housing

-add brake fluid

-MOT, TAX & Insure

I have 2 weekends left before my first track day.. I hope it can be finished by then

Mark

Edited 20 February, 200818 yr by max_crox

Awesome stuff. Can't wait to get cracking with mine now!! Although i still have issues with wiring and clocks and jazz!!

Hole in the arch is upsetting!!

Wahey my method worked once again! What trackday you doing?

Cheers for the speaker wire method :)

Well its more of a sprint day at Curborough

SHE'S ALIVE

^ lol

glad it runs ok

Cheers.. :)

Got the exhaust semi-on, filled with coolant, and then gave it a go.

After a couple of attempts it started right up :) I am soo bloody happy :)

Picked up my new rear brake lines tonight so I'll fit these tomorrow and I need to secure the exhaust properly.

Booked in for an MOT on Wednesday :)

Really chuffed for you Mark, nice work.

That hole in the arch is a shitter though ain't it? I think the majority of garages will just weld a vaguely shaped plate over the top of it and slap on some underseal. = Pikey.

Personally, I'd fix it properly. Remove the arch trim and cut out the effected area until you get back to sound metal. Then carefully make up the repair section(s) and carefully weld them in (or get someone else to if your not a competent welder). Yeah its more work and time but personally I hate shoddily welded "patch repairs". I think it ruins so many "nice cars".

Keep us updated Mark, really enjoying this progress thread.

Cheers,

Richard.

Looking very good Mark, your old gt seats are all fitted in now and are great, hopefully you'll be able to get that patch welded over :)

martin

Cheers Martin,

Glad they have got some use.

I'm just waiting to see what the MOT man (or woman in this PC environment :) ) says about the hole.

Mark

Really chuffed for you Mark, nice work.

That hole in the arch is a shitter though ain't it? I think the majority of garages will just weld a vaguely shaped plate over the top of it and slap on some underseal. = Pikey.

Personally, I'd fix it properly. Remove the arch trim and cut out the effected area until you get back to sound metal. Then carefully make up the repair section(s) and carefully weld them in (or get someone else to if your not a competent welder). Yeah its more work and time but personally I hate shoddily welded "patch repairs". I think it ruins so many "nice cars".

Keep us updated Mark, really enjoying this progress thread.

Cheers,

Richard.

I totally agree with you about the hole. The only problem the I am on a bit of a tight schedule (as the track day is in 10days). So I will see what they say. Hopefully it will be ok then I can go source a solid lower rear arch section to do a proper fix. The one thing about working on the car is you start to notice all the bad bits about it. I have found it has started to rust around the fuel filler cap as well... so I think when (if) the funds are available i'll treat the car to some new arches and some body work/respray. Maybe that will be next winter :)

Glad people seem to like the tread!!! :-D

Great thread this, much respect for giving the effort

Noticed one slight thing that needs correcting on the pic below, as i've recently done this:

You have the red/yellow and yellow/white wires labelled the wrong way round on the mk3 pin locations

Basically you need to remove 3 pins from the white socket that plugs into the back of the fuse box. These 3 cables lead to yellow sockets (see below) so they are easy to identify

This is the mk3 socket

As you can see I have marked out the pins you need to remove. You can probably demolish the plug to do this. The bottom one is the lead that goes to the fuel pumps via the yellow sock bellow