Get a pressure gauge on it?

26 - Oil pump cover with pressure relief valve Opening pressure: 4.0…5.0 bar Clean strainer if soiled.

Later engines use an oil pump driven off cams on the crankshaft

I'm going to get pressure checked. Ill make a guage in work. What pressure should it be at idle and 2k.

I'm going to get pressure checked. Ill make a guage in work. What pressure should it be at idle and 2k.

I posted this a posts back

At 2000 rpm and an oil temperature of 80 °C the oil pressure should be at least 2.0 bar.

Cheers nige. I'm going blind LOL. Ill post back once the pressures been checked. Ill check it with the engine upto temperature and no oil light as well as when the oil lights on. This will confirm 100% that its pressure related and not just a faulty wire on the pressure switch.

Are you getting the warning buzzer at the same time as the light? as you should get both if the engine is running

There is no warning buzzer. Just a flashing oil light after about 5-6 mile.

There is no warning buzzer. Just a flashing oil light after about 5-6 mile.

There should be a buzzer as well as the light, on the speedo where are the fuel & water temp gauges as in 97 they changed the speedo heads

Ill have to have a look in the morning as I'm in work now and i cant remember 100% were they are but there is definately no warning buzzer

Edited 20 May, 201313 yr by marks152

There is no warning buzzer. Just a flashing oil light after about 5-6 mile.

There should be a buzzer as well as the light, on the speedo where are the fuel & water temp gauges as in 97 they changed the speedo heads

The fuel guage is middle right and the temperature guage is middle left.

There is no warning buzzer. Just a flashing oil light after about 5-6 mile.

There should be a buzzer as well as the light, on the speedo where are the fuel & water temp gauges as in 97 they changed the speedo heads

The fuel guage is middle right and the temperature guage is middle left.

OK they are the later speedo and there is definately a buzzer, maybe you have a speedo pod problem? but I'd still get a pressure gauge to confirm the health of the oil system

There is no warning buzzer. Just a flashing oil light after about 5-6 mile.

There should be a buzzer as well as the light, on the speedo where are the fuel & water temp gauges as in 97 they changed the speedo heads

The fuel guage is middle right and the temperature guage is middle left.

OK they are the later speedo and there is definately a buzzer, maybe you have a speedo pod problem? but I'd still get a pressure gauge to confirm the health of the oil system

My local garage want £25 to check the pressure. They are having a laugh!

I've managed to find a 5 bar oil pressure guage in work and I'm going to drill a hole through the old pressure switch and fit a reinforced braided pipe between the guage and the modified oil pressure switch and use this to test the pressure. At least I will have 100% confirmation of the situation. It would be good if it was just a instrument fault.

2 - Warning buzzer

q Oil pressure warning

q Lights switched on warning

q Seat belt warning (only certain countries)

q Speed warning (only certain countries)

2 - Warning buzzer

q Oil pressure warning

q Lights switched on warning

q Seat belt warning (only certain countries)

q Speed warning (only certain countries)

I'm a bit curious to why the buzzer aint sounding. I would have thought the buzzer and oil light would have been linked together in some way. Maybe someones been in there and disabled the buzzer at some point before my mum bought the car.

Ill hopefully get some spare time in work tonight or tommorow and ill drill the switch and make the guage up and get the pressure tested. Ill post the results once I've done it.

I had the same thing with mine. I changed the sensor twice. Took the loom apart and traced wires. Took the sump off and cleaned the strainer out. Changed filters and Oil twice. Got three different people to check the pressure all said it was fine. So in the end I took apart the Speedo and removed the light and buzzer. The engine runs sweet and the pressure is spot on so must have been a Speedo error, no problems 15k later.

I had the same thing with mine. I changed the sensor twice. Took the loom apart and traced wires. Took the sump off and cleaned the strainer out. Changed filters and Oil twice. Got three different people to check the pressure all said it was fine. So in the end I took apart the Speedo and removed the light and buzzer. The engine runs sweet and the pressure is spot on so must have been a Speedo error, no problems 15k later.

This is the sort of think I like to hear. I'm hoping its something stupid like this. It would be a shame if its the pump. From memory the engines only done around 90k and has quite alot of history before my mum bought it 8 months ago. Its all resting on having time to do the oil pressure check. It will be Saturday before I can go back around and have a look due to family commitments. Luckily shes not using the car this week so its just sat on the drive. Fingers crossed.

Well - worst fears confirmed.

Oil pressure is low. Just tested the pressure and its less than 0.5 bar so it looks like its going the scrappers. I might just pull the sump off first and check the pickup first. The engine is now tappy on the top end so maybe its too late for this little engine. I was contemplating getting another engine from the scrappers but having looked at the bigger picture I fear that id only be exending its life marginly due to rust. The sills on both sides are starting to go and there is rust spots starting to appear in a few other places. The paint work is far from mint and looks like a blind man painted one side of the car. Ill have to speak with my mum and see what she wants to do but I think its a gonna.

I just want to say a big thanks to Nige who has given me some excellent help and hopefully one day I cant help you if you are stupid enough to buy a Vauxhall Many thanks nige!!!

Well that's bad news, I'd definately drop the sump before totally condeming the car even if it keeps it going to it's next mot then rethink?

I did have a GM car many years ago Opel Manta GT/E

Ill drop the sump and see if its blocked. At this we have nothing to lose other that time which luckily enough is free labour. Any tips for dropping the sump other than theslots in the flywheel to get acess to the bolts

Procedure

– Drain engine oil.

– Remove toothed belt guard and cable guide on oil sump.

– Remove front exhaust pipe from exhaust manifold.

– Unbolt right drive shaft at gearbox. → Running gear; Repair group 40; Repairing front suspension (base running gear); Removing and installing wheel bearing, suspension strut, drive shaft (base running gear)

– Remove flywheel splash plate.

– Unbolt sump sealed with liquid gasket.

– Remove sump. Loosen sump with light blows of a rubber-headed hammer if necessary.

– Remove sealant residue from cylinder block with a flat scraper.

– Remove sealant residue on sump using a rotating brush, e.g. a hand drill with a plastic brush attachment (wear eye protection).

Engine codes ADX, AEA, AEV:

– Install sump with previous hard gasket.

– Tighten oil sump bolts to 15 Nm.

Engine codes AEE, AER, AEX, AKV, ALL, ANX, APQ:

– Clean sealing surfaces. They must be free of oil and grease.

Note Observe expiry date of sealing compound.

t The sump must be installed within 5 minutes of applying silicone sealing compound.

t Sump can be positioned more easily and with greater security if M6 studs are inserted as guides into the cylinder block flange at two positions.

– Cut off tube nozzle at forward marking (nozzle Ø approx. 3 mm).

– Apply silicone sealing compound, as shown, to clean sealing surface on sump. Sealant bead must be:

t 3...4 mm thick.

t Run bead along inner side of bolt holes

The sealing compound bead must not be thicker, otherwise excessive sealing compound will enter the sump and may block the oil suction pipe strainer.

– Install sump immediately and tighten all sump bolts lightly.

– Tighten oil sump bolts to 15 Nm.

Note Let sealing compound dry for approx. 30 minutes after installing oil sump. Only then fill engine with oil

I'm just about the go and remove the sump before completely condemning it to a life in the scrap yard.

Quick question - Why does the driveshaft need unbolting from the gearbox?

It probably obvious when I actually get under the car but this just struck me as strange.

I'm just about the go and remove the sump before completely condemning it to a life in the scrap yard.

Quick question - Why does the driveshaft need unbolting from the gearbox?

It probably obvious when I actually get under the car but this just struck me as strange.

It gives better access/room

I'm just about the go and remove the sump before completely condemning it to a life in the scrap yard.

Quick question - Why does the driveshaft need unbolting from the gearbox?

It probably obvious when I actually get under the car but this just struck me as strange.

It gives better access/room

Its looking like the pump. Is it much of a job to change the pump. I've re-checked pressure. Its 1.5bar at 2k when its cold and 0.2-0.3bar @2k when its hot. Do you have a part number for the pump?

1) 032115105F

8) 030115125A chain

Remove the timing belt,crankshaft cambelt drive, then the cover over the pump, unbolt the pump and remove

And the sump?!..