answered my own question today.

Connecting pin 8 to pin 9 (both sensor pins) still gives an oil warning.

but connecting pin 3 (earth) to pin 8 works ok!

I solders straight onto the circuit board (not for the faint hearted)

Got some pics.

Before

pin 8 to pin 9

Pin 3 to pin 8

so this stopped the beeping and flashing? and also what wire did you use please?

cheers lewis

I got the illusive beep, was mega fun, until i went up the road haha! BEEP BEEP BEEP! god its annoying...

Just followed this guide. Clocks are now out, but it was alot harder than it looked! Those spring clips are a real pain to reach on the right hand side, and i had a really stiff connector on the plug at the back. But a great guide it is, as they're out and nothing broke (except the skin on my left thumb ). Just waiting on some GT clocks so i can swap the speedos, and change the lighting colour :-)

answered my own question today.

Connecting pin 8 to pin 9 (both sensor pins) still gives an oil warning.

but connecting pin 3 (earth) to pin 8 works ok!

I solders straight onto the circuit board (not for the faint hearted)

Got some pics.

Before

pin 8 to pin 9

Pin 3 to pin 8

So if I just soldier pin 3 to pin 8 that will work fine, keep the oil sensor working and stop the buzzing/ light being on?

A couple of questions:

1/ How is the speedo cable released from the back of the clocks?

2/ Is there much slack on the cable on the connector going in back of the clocks (i.e. is it possible to unclip the clocks at the sides and pull it out far enough to get access to the connector)?

1/ How is the speedo cable released from the back of the clocks?

I'm pretty sure its the same as my 6N Polo in that there is a clip that swings over the connector, and levers the whole connector out. You need to use the clip in reverse to lever the connector back in as well. The following are images from a German site http://www.t4-wiki.de/wiki/Kombiinstrument. The images show how to unlock the connector:

2/ Is there much slack on the cable on the connector going in back of the clocks (i.e. is it possible to unclip the clocks at the sides and pull it out far enough to get access to the connector)?

From memory on my 6N I don't think there was enough slack.

From what I remember it's not like zforum69 says, but is a (very tight) tab on either side that you press with thumb and forefinger for the wiring loom. There's just about enough slack to undo this.

The (mechanical) speedo cable just pulls out as you move the clocks forward. There's a solid bit in the bulkhead which just slots into the back of the clocks, so you don't need any room to do this.

zforum69 - It is different on a Mk3 Polo (mine is a 1992 GT Coupe) from a 6N Polo. The speedo cable goes in at right angles behind the speedometer part of the clock assembly. I have a second hand clock assembly which I want to swap out with the one fitted and I don not want to struggle/do damage when disconnecting the speedo cable and the connector on the cable harness.

Ray2k - thanks for the information that the (mechanical) speedo just disconnects itself as you extract the clocks.

Thanks great advice helped a lot today,

Also I'd like to add to this what worked for me, and may help others in the future

The speddo cable splits easy without disconnecting anything

If you tilt the clocks so the speedos facing the drivers window slightly (trying not to brake the wires or put to much pressure on the connectors I stuck my hand through the stereo hole and pinched the connector to remove worked well

Also as above the 2 spring clips I pushed the left by hand ( through the stereo hole again) and the second I used a small pry/ lever bar in through the light switch which worked on the 4th attempt the right side is a little more difficult

Cheers :)

QUOTE (RetroSteve @ Monday 17th October 2011 - 7:19pm) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I have a problem with my clocks - 1992 1.3 polo cl, and i just fitted a rev counter cluster that was removed from a 1989 (i think) G40

The problem is that the temperature warning light is flashing, it doesnt do it on initial startup, but starts flashing after 30 seconds or so. The temperature is definitely fine and swapping in my original cluster cures the problem, so its defo wiring related.

Any ideas?

The Gt/G40 models have a low water level sensor on the coolant bottle , I'm guessing your model doesnt have this and i dont think they have the loom for it either. Cheers Mark

hi i have this same problem is there any way i can stop it from happening ? it keeps making me think I&#39;m indicating when I&#39;m not haha. would it be hard to wire in a low level sensor or could i do something similar to the oil pressure fix ? ?