Hey,

Got a few questions with regards to my 6n2 1.4 TDI I picked up recently.

It's got a severe wobble around 50-60 worst when accelerating, but settles down if you only use the tiniest amount of throttle.

I had checked the tyre pressures, removed the spacers off the front, and since replaced with different wheels with brand new tyres, and they were balanced (fitted with no spacers and the correct bolts!)

The car itself is on 170k and I have no idea of any history.

It pulls well in all gears, and got 76bhp on an RR in January, so hasn't lost any power.

I have also noticed that its also being a bit vague when going over things like manhole covers and stuff.

So I'm lead to a couple of things it could be.

Warped Discs - I have a set of discs and pads to throw on this week.
Worn Ball joints - Cheap and easy to replace
CV joint - Inner looks like the boot has come apart slightly, unsure how long and didnt look like a grease-fest but might be wise to replace the whole thing

Upon doing some googling, I noted that there is a balance belt/ or tensioner or something that helps counter-balance the inherit vibrations caused by the 3-cyl engine.

Can anyone shed some light on this? If its a cam-belt off job, thats fine, as I can replace the cambelt whilst I'm there.

What else is worth doing at the same time - oil pump chain? or the whole pump - I've heard of a few horror stories of seized pumps.

Don't mind spending a couple of hundred quid on this, as the car cost me next to nothing, and I'll either do the work myself, or drop it in with a mate, as a foreign.

Any help much appreciated, as would a PDF of the haynes, if anyone has one.

Much love CP'ers

Saf

Here's the info on the balancer shaft,AMF Balancer shaft.doc

Here's the cambelt with a friction tensioner AMF Timing belt Vehicles with friction Tensioner.doc

With the hydraulic tensioner AMF Timing Belt Vehicles with hydraulic belt tensioning system.doc

Your a gentleman sir, will give them a print now and it'll provide this evenings reading.

Cheers

This is well weird, went for a drive over woodhead pass yesterday for a shakedown.

Vibrates a smidge over 40, up to around 65. Vibrates when there is no acceleration, or anything more than a smidge of acceleration. Once you get past 65 it's fine (shit as furk in average speed camera zones)

Didn't make much of a difference with the car in neutral or clutch depressed. If I am at 60, lift off and decelerate down to 35, it'll vibrate like a motherbitch until its down below 40.

Wheel wobble through the steering wheel or general vibration at certain speeds?

Do they have balancing aids on the driveshafts? Had a 306 with a knackered driveshaft that would vibrate at certain speeds.

Daft question, but. It's not a misfire is it? You really feel them on 3pots.

General wobble all over mate, not just in the steering. My tools in the glovebox sound like a steel pan band when it happens.

It could well be Yeti man, I did have a sneaking suspicion that it could be something or that ilk, as the lightest of throttle at those speeds sorts it and any more it goes earthquake styles - akin to putting load of a petrol and it bogging down, although it doesn't seem down on power and managed 55mpg (400 miles to 45 quid)

Will have to check the balancing aids, are there one of both sides, or just on the drivers?

where the hell would I start with a diseasal with regards to mis-fires.

I know faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaack all about them. Do they even have spark leads or a dizzie?!

Could the fact that the coolant light comes on when warm matter? the temp stays in the middle of the gauge, but I haven't checked the level or owt (shocking I know!)

also are these OBD1? As I have a code reader I can plug in

at first a thought balljoints but i would check all bushings and suspension. there are no spark leads there will be a glowplug ahrness in the front of the engine. does it steer ina straightline and is the wheel straight, maybe you need geometry set up again. but check your balljoints before you do that and replace if they are fucked.

It might respond to a generic obd reader but you'd get a better response with VCDS/Vagcom

where the hell would I start with a diseasal with regards to mis-fires.

I know faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaack all about them. Do they even have spark leads or a dizzie?!

Could the fact that the coolant light comes on when warm matter? the temp stays in the middle of the gauge, but I haven't checked the level or owt (shocking I know!)

also are these OBD1? As I have a code reader I can plug in

No spark, no, plugs, no dizzy (not even petrols have them any more). Boost, inject, compress, ignite, exhaust. Petrols are governed by the amount of air allowed past the butterfly, dervs are the opposite, the fuel pump controls how much goes in.

The catch is, when you're talking modern diesels, it's a highly computerised form of that, so the best starting point is a code reader.

Gut instinct, based on no documented fact at all. At that milage, I reckon your injectors are clogged up and not spraying nicely.

If you want a ten quid gamble, get the tank fairly low (quarter, to a third of a tank), go on ebay, buy some "Forte" Diesel Injector Cleaner. Lob it in the tank, drive about til the fuel light comes on and see what occurs.

How well does it start up when cold?

Get someone to drive behind you and see if it smokes from the exhaust when the vibration is there.

Cheers for the heads-up Yeti.

Stuck my head under the car again yesterday, both NS cv boots split, the inner one is completely torn and has a good amount of play in it. Tracking is out aswell which won't be helping.

Got the following bits on the way
Complete driveshaft (cheaper than buying new CV's!)
2 new ball joints

engine service
oil/air/pollen/fuel filters
glow plugs
timing belt kit w/ vibration damper
oil pump

starts up sweet when its cold and no smoking when its on a jolty fest

Saf if you need and help or vcds holla at me.

Couldn't be arsed reading all the posts but bell us of you get stuck.

id get the ball joints n tracking sorted first. could possibly be something like a hub?

the inner cvs will cause vibrations under aceleration, the outers that horrible clunking noise whe your turning round a bend. sounds like you found whats wrong

It was the inner CV in the end - it shattered on the motorway on Sunday (and set fire to the CV boot), replaced with a new driveshaft on the Monday. I'll stick some pics up tonight of the merked shaft and CV