This is tubing I bought last week http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110453325949?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITas copper tube will age harden over time and can fracture :(

Screw it, I'll order that pipe, fit it as best as I can and if it still fails just get really angry at the world and retreat into a hole.

I just want the parts on order.

So with that copper piping you just shape it to match the original piping and connect it up in the right places. Correct? A video i watched showed him cable tie the new pipe to the old and shape it that way using the tool.

With the rigid pipes you have to use a flaring tool to put the ends on the pipe so that it will seal in the joint

This is the one I have http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-3434-In-Situ-Hand-Held-Brake-Pipe-Flaring-Tool-Top-Quality-Bargain-Price-/300691069158?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item46029598e6

Christ, that's way more than i thought it was going to be. I'm supposed to be doing this as cheap as possible. ><

Knowing that i have stuff that needs doing on the Golf is making me very reluctant to spend more than £80 on this, when i'm probably only gonna get £500 IF I can find someone who's not fussed about a rocker leak and slippy clutch.

Tempted to just scrap it and sell the parts I have.

I did it last week on the M3, had to replace the two rear lines. Just joined them half way down the body and the MOT man was happy enough. Glad because there was no way I was going right back to the ABS unit to replace them.

I agree Kunifer pipe is better and I'm using that on the Polo. Probably a bit backwards to most people....

A good flaring tool makes all the difference, I was using a cheap draper thing for ages but then I bought one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pipe-Flaring-Tool-PH-BFT-475-4-75mm-DIN-Powerhand-New-/161353061492?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2591645474 and it is so much better to use.

Check what flare you need first though as you also get this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pipe-Flaring-Tool-Powerhand-PH-BFT-316-3-16-/151035636166?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item232a6ce9c6

My basket for the front hoses, the piping and the rear hose is already at £43, I spent £15 on the bearing. So that's £60. Partial retest is going to be £20 and a flare tool is £30ish. That comes to £110. I told myself if it was going to cost over £80 I'd scrap it. I don't really see the long term value in spending £110ish to get it through it's MOT to then struggle to get much for it because of the bad clutch and oil leaks.

Not to mention the fact that I should probably temp insure someone to drive it to the MOT station which is going to be another £40 odd. It's not feeling very cost effective when I need pads, discs, shoes and a good service on the Golf,.

With no MOT you'll be lucky to £40~60 from a scrappy but with a 12 month ticket it will be much more saleable :)

Yeah, I know. I just know trying to sell it is going to be a pain in the ass because the clutch slips, and when you pop the bonnet you can see that there's an oil leak. Plus I still don't know how I'm even gonna afford the parts.

Would be alright without the bloody flaring tool.

Also just realised the copper piping could take up until Tues 26th to arrive and that's after my 10 days are up.

Edited 17 May, 201511 yr by mbusby993

How long do the pipes and hoses need to be? Because when I search for brake pipe and brake hose (on the rear) it comes up with basically the same thing.

If you can measure the length of the pipe most motor factors will make the pipe for you with the correct end fittings and flared and if you've only got 1 pipe to do it'll be a lot cheaper

Think of the flaring tool as an investment, yes it will cost you £40 now but you'll never have to buy it again.

Selling a car with a full 12 months of MOT is easy. I've even had people buy cars off me without even looking over them or test driving them just on the basis of it having a full MOT.....pretty stupid, but people are......

(6) shorten to: / F >> 6N-TY000 030 / F >> 6N-SW075 000 2830MM rhd /

(6) shorten to: / F 6N-TY000 031>> / F 6N-SW000 001>> 2545MM rhd /

(7) shorten to: / F >> 6N-TY000 030 / F >> 6N-TW075 000 2815MM rhd /

(7) shorten to: / F 6N-TY000 031>> / F 6N-SW000 001>> 2595MM rhd /

8 shorten to: 220MM /

9 shorten to: 1670MM /

10 shorten to: / for models with drum brakes 480MM /

11 shorten to: / for models with drum brakes 595MM /

So with your chassis number you can work out what length you need :)

No idea what my chassis number is.

The car and all the paperwork, is a solid 30 miles away and I can't afford to put fuel in because I'm having to spend all this money on parts. Right pain in the backside. I just want it done, fed up with this car now. It's been nothing but trouble.

Edited 17 May, 201511 yr by mbusby993

From the picture what # do you need to replace ?

Right, will the 3/16 pipe do, and is this the flaring tool I need?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pipe-Flaring-Tool-Powerhand-PH-BFT-316-3-16-/151035636166?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item232a6ce9c6

Really resenting having to spend this much on this car. It better pass it's retest after all this.

I've got 2x front hoses, 1x front wheel bearing, 25ft 3/16 pipe and the 3/16 flaring tool.

The rear hose I've got is to replace the ferrule. The pipe is just 'offside rear brake pipe excessively corroded' so at a guess I'd say #6? But I literally have no idea. My brain's melted by this point.

O/S rear would be #9 or #11 #6 would be listed as front to rear pipe

No idea then, I'm just gonna order the piping and be done with it. Gonna have to just spend the money on the flaring tool because I'm just not grasping this at all.

What are the chances of the ball joint breaking? My mate now seems to reckon that we're going to have trouble with the hub nut and ball joint, using a breaker bar. I hadn't considered this because I'd not seen anybody mention it?

If it does break I'm going to miss my retest window and have to pay £40 for a test, plus the fact the car's not technically insured anymore. Plus If it breaks that's yet another job to be done?

What was meant to be simple just seems to be spiralling.

If anyone finds this thread searching for brake hoses, the Banjo type hoses were definitely the correct hoses for a 99 6n, APQ engined.

Got most of this done, I've got one more hose and a bleed of the system to do on Monday morning. With the rear bearing, we cracked off the hub dust cover and tightened up the bolt that has the locking pin through it. Is that all you need to do?

Cheers guys, that the last question I should have about that now. :P

New track rod cost me £17 more than I'd planned to spend, but the ball joint cover split and we ended up having to angle grind the old one off.

Keep tightening the big nut till the play has gone, then slacken it to just enough to make sure the washer under the nut can be moved, as shown in my previous post #7

doesnt hurt to repack it with grease too

Ah, so that's what is meant by the screwdriver in the diagram. That's fine, that'll take all of 2 minutes on Monday. I'll whack some grease on it too, I didn't today because I knew I'd probably have it off again!

We were plagued by rusted joints and nuts etc the whole way through. In trying to get the hub off last night we found both the nut holding the lower ball joint had seized, as had the track rod. We had to angle grind the track rod off and fit a new one, because we just could not get it off at all.

The little clip holding the rear brake hose in place was also so corroded we were unable to clip it in to place there, but it's still routed as best as we can. The hoses thankfully turned out to be the correct ones and Hope was mentioning the need of a press to people throughout the day at work last week and a guy ended up offering to do it for nothing for me, which was fantastic. Bought him some beers. :) Only trouble now is the place I took it for it's test has no slots free on Monday, and that's the last day of my 10 days. So after all this I may end up missing my retest date anyway, unless he can squeeze me in at all throughout the day.