I have no idea what a garage would charge to do this, but for the sake of £125 (which I guess wouldn't be far off a garage labour charge) you could buy this set http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bahco-Socket-106-Piece-2-Inch-Drive/dp/B000Y8OFI6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449759465&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=Bahco+Socket+set&psc=1

I have a good tool box with lots of tools so no problem on tool side of things.. As for the link on the bahco tool set its a great price and great tools I have used that brand of tools for many years . I may just but them as a back up set..Thanks

Also where did you get your bosch water pump from as ebay have a lot of no branded water pumps etc.. 1991 Mk2f gt coupe ..

Edited 23 February, 201610 yr by 1vw2many

Brilliant step by step photos and write up, I followed it myself today, only problem I'm having is get the tension on the belt, the water pump that came of was completely knackered and had done broken off 

Brilliant step by step photos and write up, I followed it myself today, only problem I'm having is get the tension on the belt, the water pump that came of was completely knackered and had done broken off

what tool is used on the water pump to get the tension on the belt. and is it possible to tension the belt while the inner plastic cover is in place? cheers

long screwdriver or prybar to twist the water pump with the bolts slack..yes the inner cover isnt a problem

17 hours ago, steveo3002 said:

long screwdriver or prybar to twist the water pump with the bolts slack..yes the inner cover isnt a problem

cheers

 

Awesome guide.  I am halfway through my cambelt change now.

 

A few questions regarding fasteners:

 

i) I removed the crankshaft sprocket, and intend to refit with the same bolt.  Haynes doesn't specify replacement, but for the *crankshaft* bolt, which is a different part number, but still a big bolt taking 80 Nm torque like the cam bolt, Haynes specifies replacement.  Am I OK to re-use the cam pulley bolt?  Just use it as is, clean and dry, or blue loctite for security, but this could affect tightening torque?

 

ii) The belt plastic covers and water pump have a variety of bolts, most have washers and a sprung washer "wave washer".

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/1991-120/1/109-6000/

 

These are mostly missing on my car.  I have a box of assorted washers and grippy star washers/split spring washers.  I don't want one of those bolts shaking out and causing a water leak or bouncing around inside the belt cover and cutting the belt.  Again, blue loctite for security?

 

iii)  On the water pump, does anyone use RTV silicone in addition to the O-ring?  I've scraped the block mating face clean.  I was intending to lube the o-ring with some fairy liquid so it doesn't snag when tensioning and clamping.

 

Cheers

ive reused the cam bolt many times ...its not that big , just a huge head , locktite if it makes you feel better ive not bothered

 

no need to locktite cam belt fixings

 

no do not use sealant on the o ring ...can lube it if you wish

Thanks Steveo, you've helped me a lot in this and other threads.

 

So I've completed the job (my first ever timing belt).  Timing marks are bang on, I hand rotated the crank about 20 times to check, but I had a rhythmic noise on startup, which initially terrified me, it didn't sound metallic but more like a plastic rattle or ratcheting sound, coming from somewhere near the chassis leg which then disappeared after a minute or so.  The engine runs fine after 10 minutes on the drive and a 5 mile test drive, and timing is still bang on.

 

Water pump has started to whine (I think it may have been the rattle noise originally), most noticeable on the overrun , and upon light throttle application so I may have overtensioned the belt.  I did the 90deg thumb and finger thing (just finger pressure, no wrist) on the run between the WP and camshaft, and took some time over this to get it correct.  But it's my first time and finger pressure is a bit subjective. 

 

I am going to remove the alternator belt to rule out alternator being the whiny component.

 

If it is my WP that is whining, what are my options? 

I cant adjust the tension in situ since when I tried backing off the bolts, the pump is firm in the block and wont twist with a screwdriver in the tension hole.

 

i) Drain coolant, coax the pump out by a few mm to loosen it enough to tension again, re-tension  and bolt her up, hope the O-ring copes with the abuse

 

ii)  As above but replace o-ring (so pulley, cambelt and covers off, WP out)

 

iii) Just repeat the job as a whole with new WP and O-ring.  Will 5 miles of squeak have doomed the old pump?

 

I used a Gates belt and WP set which I would hope are decent quality.  Also, can a belt ever make a whiny noise if it's too loose?

 

Cheers

 

 

if the pump was ok before its probably just a tight belt 

 

ive found mine seem to like being on the slack side of 90 deg twist , i guess it depends how strong /rough you are with the belt

 

if its not the alt belt , id just loosen the water pump bolts slightly and ease off the tension , theres a lump on the pump where you can whack /lever it with a long screwdriver or prybar

Thanks Steveo.  Its a new pump and belt so its hard to say (the old pump was quiet with the old belt and could be twisted a little over 90 deg,).  I guess I may have given the new one a strong 90 deg as I was scared of getting it slack and jumping a tooth.

 

I'm gonna try what you suggested and adjust in situ.  I need to find a longer screwdriver or 3/8 socket bar as my current one puts your hand right near the dipstick so its hard to get purchase.

 

I wish these things had auto tensioners like newer cars!

All sorted now.  One small adjustment killed 90% of the squeal, another eliminated it entirely.  And no leaks detectable after 70 miles of driving. 👍

Do you still own this car? It looks almost identical to mine so Im wondering if it is 😂