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9N3 Electric Windows Not Working

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No problem.

If it's a 6Y1959801 it will be one I can do.  Only where there's some doubt about it being an earlier or later version with different part number is it handy to be able to look up by VIN, to save having to physically eyeball the part to identify it.

I can send you some little vids I've made to show damageless disassembly of Temic part from main assembly, and then circuitboard from plastic cap. Too big to upload here despite being brief, I think. May well reduce postage cost.

  • 2 months later...
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  • Hey guys just wanted to post a testimony here regarding Pete1's work.   So i used his repair service after spending a lot of time on this common electric window issue. Long story short i ref

  • The easiest way to check it's not a power issue is (if the car's got central locking), put the key in the drivers door and hold it in the unlock position. The windows should drop. You can close them b

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I came across the same problem with my friend's car - long story short - I don't have time to waste it with such an old crappy car, neither patience with people like Pete1 - nothing personal, just this kind of people on forums (I know what is wrong, but I will not tell anyone etc) should be BANNED immediately, forums are about to HELP other similar people, NOT to make business - you can advert your services anywhere else, but forums are here to help each other! I don't accept that BS about spending time/money etc, MANY people including myself have spent the same, even more, and yet they are willing to help! I don't know how much you charge to fix the board, but in my friend's case, the shipping from Norway to UK and back is MUCH MORE than another working component from scrapyard, hence I can't see even the meaning of trying to make money like this, when it's cheaper to get another part than to fix it...

 

Anyway, there was nothing wrong with the relay or capacitor, as already mentioned, you can easily measure them before wasting time and money buying and changing them, it's easy to find a datasheet to see the coils and switches inside, the same applies to the capacity, it was almost 100uF as it should be. There was no ceramic capacitor shorted, which is another common problem, there was NOTHING wrong basically with the board, MCU voltage 5V as it should be etc, no visible cracks on the PCB - since I couldn't find anything wrong, I just grabbed the hot air station, melted the whole board and voila, it works like a charm again - so THERE IS AN INVISIBLE SOLDER CRACK somewhere, but I didn't see anything even under a magnifying glass, weird...So for those who don't want to waste time and money, test the relay, melt the board and that's it - if it solves the problem, perfect, if not, throw it as far as possible and get another cheap working part, or - especially considering the age and value of this car - scrap it and get something better ;-)

I was planning to publish the fix very soon, next day or two actually. 🙂

Such a nasty tone from you Mr hater, how's your life generally?

I don't think your solution will last. I charge just £50, and with communication, postage, repair parts and time spent this isn't big bucks.

Many UK-based people seem very happy with what I offer, have a read of the Repair Service thread in the Entrepreneur section. I have helped several people in mainland Europe without any big complaints, although it is slow, mainly due to customs delays.

 

 

 

So, here it is; the real fix for these window motor modules.

 

Lots of things I could say about it, but the main thing is:

Please share this image, or link this post onto as many forums as possible, worldwide, relating to Polo, T5 Transporter, Skoda Fabia Mk1/Mk2 and Roomster. I'll do Briskoda.net myself, since I'm a regular there.

It's an inexpensive part, but fiddly if you're not used to dealing with small surface-mount stuff. It's something like 3mm long and 1.3mm wide, from memory; a ceramic resonator.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The reveal.jpg

  • 2 months later...

Hello,

It has now been more than 2 months since I got my board back after repair.

And it's been working fine for 2 months now with no issues at all.

Although it has a cost, it is worth it.

 

Thanks again to Pete for his expertise, his good follow-up messages and information on the part and sending it.

 

Regards from Belgium.

                             Alain.

  • 4 months later...

I've just have the same issue on my 2007 Polo 9n 1.4Tdi. The front windows just stopped working, I tried both switches driver and passenger sides nether work. Checked fuses on top of the battery and drivers door all ok. Would replacing the relay and capacitor fix this problem?, I'm compliant at soldering (radio ham) and good with electronics... I don't have VAGCOM BTW.

 

Sorry to revive an old thread ! 

Hi, VCDS/VAGCOM are of no use here, since the modules have no data connection to the diagnostic system.

If you scroll up just a couple of posts you'll see what really needs replacing.

Capacitor and relay aren't a bad idea since they do wear out eventually, but aren't the main problem, almost never in my considerable experience.

Feel free to message me if you'd like any assistance.

 

30 minutes ago, Pete1 said:

Hi, VCDS/VAGCOM are of no use here, since the modules have no data connection to the diagnostic system.

If you scroll up just a couple of posts you'll see what really needs replacing.

Capacitor and relay aren't a bad idea since they do wear out eventually, but aren't the main problem, almost never in my considerable experience.

Feel free to message me if you'd like any assistance.

 

Thanks for the prompt reply, It seems odd that the cap needs replacing as above as it looks ok, the relay seems more probable. It may have been you that mentioned the crystal which is a bit weird to go but anything is possible given the harsh electrical environment. I assumed it was all on a CAN bus - Any ideas what the main problem is ? 

Ah ok, I could replace that I have a hot air gun capable of melting solder or a local ham I think has a re-flow oven I do have a few small bit soldering irons that may do SMD . Do you know it's frequency or a link to get one?. I wild guess would be 16Mhz ish ...

Look at the image I posted,  the information is all there.

Thanks Pete, I've found the info would you sell a resonator to me? 

My guess was correct on frequency😆 I probably have one on an old PCB in my parts and old projects but I have too much to look through...

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