The car hasnt got a got it not started it today it's been raining which picture are you asking about the piston?

with the timing marks aligned on both pulleys and rotor arm ...number piston needs to be at the top of its travel

Yes it's at the top put a screwdriver down the spark plug gap it was sitting perfectly 

 

well then its timed as long as youre sure ....with the dizzy adjusted so that the rotor points at number its good enough to run then fine tune with a strobe , if its all set like that then you have other issues

I'm 110% but it still runs like a bag of nails which baffles me 

whats the history with it then?  did it happen after work to the car or what 

@Le catweasel had similar issues, it was the blue temp sensor and lambda that sorted it in the end I think.

It all started when the dizzy filled with oil and the rotary arm was all chewed up and the hall sender wiring was also chewed up in the process.also number one and 2 cylinder became flooded with oil but all seems to have settled down now.ive replaced distrubitor,rotary arm,leads,plugs and blue temp sender also put a new lambs sensor on plus a new cambelt.

you can disconect the lambda to rule that out , double check plug leads are on correct order , other than that maybe dud parts you fitted , some are shocking these days 

Will try disconnecting lamba sensor,plugs are Bosch so I trust them,leads im not so sure about,distrubitor cap is Bosch so trust that not so sure about distrubitor itself so I agree with what you are saying the parts may not be up to the job sadly 

5 hours ago, mattpolog40 said:

also number one and 2 cylinder became flooded with oil

Engine would not turn with lots of oil in a cylinder because oil does not compress. With both valves closed the flywheel's inertia and the extra explosion power stroke of other pistons would cause damage (such as conrod or crank bearings or piston wrist pin).

 

Did it smoke out of exhaust?

 

A small amount of oil passes (worn) piston rings on downwards stroke but otherwise can only enter cylinder from valve seals or headgasket.

Have you replaced headgasket or was it actually just UNBURNT fuel and not oil?

 

Only two cylinders working will run unevenly, sound awful  and not rev.

 

 

Genuine VAG blue temp sender?

 

 

Head gasket was replaced about 6 months ago ive checked for the usual suspect milkshake looking subasuance of water and water mixing and it's looks ok.exaust isn't smoking so I thinking position rings are ok thankfully 

I got the blue temp sender from my local vw dealership 

Right i had a play today and the crank is rotating twice when I turn it manually so I know it's times up correctly.the car now turns over straight away with the turn of the key which it hasn't done since I've been having problems.it runs ok cuts out now and again but I guess it needs tweeking by tweeking I mean setting up with a timing light.the car still has a slight misfire I can hear it when I rev the car but I guess again it needs the timing tweeking.so I think today I have made a breakthrough 

Proper blue temp sender then.

Well done.  But should not cut out when warm.

Have you tried the piece of paper held loosely over exhaust outlet?

 

 

 

Edited 20 September, 20178 yr by dvderlm

I have a spare temp sender so will give it a try tomorrow didn't have a chance to try the paper as I ran out of time so I will update tomorrow.thank you for all your help and advice 

Misred that I thought it said probably blue temp sender didn't give it a chance to get hot enough as I ran out of time today but have a full day on it tomorrow so should hopefully get it up and running 

New update I managed to get the car running ok and to start first time with the turn of the key.but it now cuts out and when I try to restart it there's a clicking noise coming from the distrubitor.i know it's not the starter motor as I replaced it earlier this year.so does anybody have any idea what this noise is or where it's coming from 

Relay? Could still be the starter solenoid. Did you replace the copper insert for the gearbox when doing the starter

more details -you try and start it and it clicks??

 

is the engine spinning over at that point or dead ?

 

one thing to check and worth an upgrade is the engine earths  

Also we need an adress to send our invoices to for 'consaltancy fees'

I wasn't told to replace the copper insert when replacing the starter motor.it was a brand new starter motor.

when the clixk happens it's literally stopping the engine from turning over but it's stop doing it now.i now have the problem of the revs not dropping when I remove the blue temp sender to set the ignition timing with my strobe.

By the way I will happily pay someone if you help me get my g40 running again 

I was only joking, help here is always free but if people happen to be close by bacon will usually help them stop in

Sounds like general running issues masking eachother. Clean all the earths and the ignition coil to make sure the current flows as it should