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Still have polo g40 timing issue

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It's had new ignition coil and replaced all earths aswell 

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  • You've got it running with timing light showing still crank pulley line marker at Z (for Zündung = ignition). The Z is the 5 degree mark for that pulley. That sounds fine, there's sparks and fuel

  • Yes the timing mark jumps about quite abit whilst looking at it 

  • As said before though low compression can also cause the same wobble 

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click /not turning over sounds very much flat battery or cable issues 

 

if it does it again try with a jump lead attached between earth on the battery and the engine block

  • Author

It's a new battary but I will try a jump lead and see if that makes a difference thanks for all the suggestions 

can also multmeter the battery voltage at rest amd when cranking 

 

and also at the battery positive post - clicking is most usualy the starter not haiving enough juice to turn for whatever reason 

  • Author

Awsome I have a multi meter borrowed one from the neighbour so going to have a play today 

  • Author

IVE checked my earths for resistance and they all measure 0 so I’m chuffed about that as that was bothering me.ive checked all sensors and still when I unplug the blue temp sender nothing happeneds like its supposed to so that does worry me massively so that’s stopping set the ignition timing.also I’m getting no reading apart from the odd flicker from the co2 pot so I have no idea what’s going on with this dam car but it’s driving me up the wall 

Hi

How clean (moisture, leafs, etc)  is the area near the ignition control unit ? 

  • Author

It’s all clean around that area I replaced the coil not long ago so I clean the earth up with sandpaper and I’ve Cleaned all the engine bay in the process removed dirt and grime that had built up 

so whats going on now 

 

you said it was clicking and not starting ?  seems like it has more than one issue

Strip it all back, clean and examine and refit making sure all is tight and correct. 

  • Author

The clicking seems to be a intermittent thing it hasn’t done it since.earths are all good no resistance,nothing happeneds when removing the blue temp sunder,and no reading from co2 pot.so I’m thinking of taking it all to bits just wondering if head gasket has gone after I ended up getting oil in distrubitor and it’s head gasket that’s giving me herendous misfire 

20 hours ago, mattpolog40 said:

.......so I’m thinking of taking it all to bits just wondering if head gasket has gone after I ended up getting oil in distrubitor and it’s head gasket that’s giving me herendous misfire 

Hi

The oil in the distributor is NOT because of the headgasket. It is because of the little round seal on the distributor shaft. 

  • Author

Yer I knew there was an oil seal on the distrubitor I’m wondering if the head gasket has gone which is why it won’t run properly and it’s got an awful misfire.it sounds like it’s running on 2 cylinders I’ve replaced nearly every part possible and it still refuses to run.so I’m thinking of taking it all to bits so I can see what’s going on properly.thats my line of thought might be bonkers but it’s desperate times sadly 

But it's behaviour of moving parts (moving air and fuel) that's a problem. Assuming it is one bad cylinder, you could pull a spark plug lead and see if it sounds the same one cylinder at a time, put it back, try next cylinder. You could point an infrared thermometer at exhaust port area for each cylinder and find 3 are over 200 degrees one at only 80ish.

Or the paper dangled  at exhaust pipe or use a compression tester or leakdown tester or vacuum gauge (harder with super charger?).

  • Author

I’m glad you said that because parkers want £45 for a head gasket I’m just getting desperate I think because I’ve literally tried everything but a compression test so I’m going to borrow one and see what’s going on.

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