I suppose I should be pleased, the engine is now producing so much power above 3000rpm when the main jets get active at hard acceleration that the clutch slips. Nearly instant rise to over 4000rpm on tacho with no noticeable speed increase,  then drops back to 3700ish and then car climbs in speed. 

 

The clutch was replaced new when I converted from 4 speed to 5 speed in July 2005 so it has had a good life (nearly 13 years and >100,000 miles). The clutch cable to pedal must auto-adjust.

May as well realign 5th which has a slight whine under light load.

 

Anything else I should check/change at the same time?

Is the gearbox end crankshaft seal accessible?

. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

selector seal

https://youtu.be/FyWkoVDHt2g

 

fifth gear selector fork adjust? Mark Croxford's video

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCJ3ondhkNaeklxdXyy3tvg

 

The 5th gear (i've got 8p with 0.74) cogs?

 

end plate?

 

gearbox oil obvs

Edited 26 April, 20188 yr by dvderlm

starter bush?

Good thinking.

Did that already when replaced the starter motor along with fat alternator cables.

 

Limited slip diff?

Would it fit to an 8P even?

Removed all bolts except front and rear gearbox mount, and gearbox to block bolts and selector shaft.

 

Clutch is not self-adjusting.

But pedal freeplay appeared to 10 to 15mm.

Hard to measure. Could not adjust the tensioner.. it just turned the whole cable having released tbe 20mm lock nut from the 13mm nut to halfround that sits in release lever saddle.

 

 

So, on axle stands, disconnect  battery earth, carb linkage off, trumpets off, fuel line off, carbs off, to get to starter motor then exhaust mount then alternator starter cables then starter motor off (3 bolts.. you can only see 2)

, flywheel coverplate, clutch cable, speedo cable(22mm spanner fir such a tiny thing), driveshaft spline bolts.

 

Rain stopped play.

 

Do I need to pull the wheels out wider, cause the driveshafts look fairly captive/close to the box flanges?

Edited 30 April, 20188 yr by dvderlm

on mine (88) you can pull the shafts out with all the suspension intact ...just has to be raised and on full lock , is very tight and looks like theyre stuck but they do come out

 

hated doing my gearbox....best thing that helped me was a brace over the top and a stout ratchet strap to the box, could adjust that to be holding the box at whatever level you want then youre able to to wiggle it on   

Great tips as always. I gave up when I tried all those years ago and paid a garage to finish the job.

Bit more determined this time.

Unplugged the reversing light switch connectors.

Selector shaft seal arrived and ordered an LHD clutch cable.

 

Actually if I can get thenearside driveshaft loose and out of the way and tie up  the offside one so it does not fall it should be fine, as the gearbox will be removed towards the nearside as it slides off the dowels.

That movement means the whole rear gearbox mount has to come off the floor not just the bracket to gearbox.

 

 

 

 

 

and selector shaft coupling disconnected. Didn't need to heat it up, but held the rod in a vice ratchet  strapped to a trolley jack. Without that it would just change gear as it moved around. 24 hours of degreaser helped, thought it might be 11mm nut yesterday. Maybe get an assistant to hold the gear lever in second?

The 10mm nut passes through the gearbox actuator rod.

Edited 2 May, 20188 yr by dvderlm

Tried full lock to left and to right. There's just not enough clearance to lift the inner CV joint up out of the way (or down or forwards or backwards). It'll turn freely.

Maybe the lowering top mounts and ARB caster blocks just distort driveshaft angles too much. Wheel is as low as it can go as dangling freely.

Hard to tell with universal joints inside rubber gaiters.

I'll try raising the nearside wheel at bottom of strut with a jack and spring compressors. 

 

If that does not work. think I'll have to remove the ARB and maybe track control arm  at bottom of strut to pull it wider. 

Offside is just as tight fit. Is an 8P gearbox and flanges maybe 2mm wider than a GX?

 

Failing that it's hubnut time.

 

 

 

Found this 

 

mines an 8p

 

i think i might have had to raise the wheel in the arch with a jack , it looks like its impossible but does come out when its just right

Great.

Want to get it done and drive to Stanford Hall on Sunday. That might be ambitious given rate of progress so far.

 

Got some EP 75w90 fully synth GL-4 and 5 gearbox oil from Euro (gl-4 because synchromesh and diff in the box http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf).

Only got 2 liters of >10 year old SAE80 (gl-4) gearbox oil in a 5l container left.

 

Think a new old stock clutch cable is held at the Post Office. 

 

 

 

Edited 4 May, 20188 yr by dvderlm

Nearside inner CV off.... but downwards.

and here's how it was jacked..

Axle stand at inner track control mount point. Trick was to raise strut as high as possible steering straight ahead, but remove track control arm securing 17mm bolt at strut. It's back in for this photo.

And 5 hours later the gearbox is loose from the block but still in the car.

Can't get one of the top mount to gearbox bolts out. 

Now i know why you have to remove the washer bottle.

You can see that the rear flanged bolt is going to trap a 17mm ratchet spanner. which won't undo looser because it is in the way, or of course tighter again, just clickity because it is a ratchet.

 

 

Undid the rubber donut and angled the top mount to vertical. 

 

Been tilting the engine down to nearside on the support bar, had to remove the tunnel stiffening as exhaust touching that, and now at the point where gearbox end plate touched the ARB near the wheel.

 

 

turn it so the drive flanges point up then it should wiggle off

 

getting it off is the easy bit...took me 1.5 hrs to get mine off , 8 hrs later it was back on its wheels lol

huh?

 

Rotate the whole gearbox casing around the input shaft?

yes from what i remember it needs rotating a bit so that the flanges are more towards the top

 

im far from an expert though...i also had the engine all but hanging out at a steep angle

Got the top mount off. In shade I could see enough of the flanged bolt and carefully angle tings to turn it back to tight with a stubby spanner into the captive nut of the top mount, then free the trapped 17mm ratchet spanner.

Then loosen said bolt.

 

Then tried some height adjusting, angle adjusting which broke my jack!

At the tiny universal joint to close the valve.

 

Gearbox won't rotate anti clockwise - the water pipe is in the way.

Disconnected exhaust so could lower engine even more towards nearside.

 

And bent the inner wing panel to get a bit more clearance... there's evidence of a kink that this has been done before.

Then removed a jubilee clip from the water hose, whose screw head was in the way.

 

And lowered and waggled till end plate touched the ARB again! But about 4cm from the corner.

 

And did that some more, lower the jack, lower the ratchet strap, lower the engine (keep repeating)

and it's clear of the pressure plate!

 

 

 

Edited 6 May, 20188 yr by dvderlm

i had my engine at a much steeper angle  

Haynes book of lies. It can't go at a steeper angle if supported both ends of engine lift eyes with a horizontal joist resting in the wing channels. Figure 6.1 

It needs to just support at gearbox end of the engine.

 Nearly there....

 

Edited 6 May, 20188 yr by dvderlm

aaaargh...

Using a skateboard to wheel it out - too high.

Yay

 

Now approx 45 man hours to put it back.? 

 

 

 

yeah putting it back is the best bit , at least its a nice day  

Not going to get to Stanford Hall VW show, unless a miracle happens. Glad I didn't put my name down.

Drained the oil.

Now for the clutch.

Edited 6 May, 20188 yr by dvderlm

Dangit. 

Transmech  3pc 190mm clutch kit and release bearing fot 1984 Polo 75bhp from EuroCarParts 6414440691 840276

Bought  in March 2013. 

But sprung  friction plate won't fit on the dowels. It appears to be 200mm.

And the release bearing is bigger. Nope it's not going to stay in place on the springs on the release arms.

 

Oh well just just the new clutch plate. Old bearing turns quietly. Some wear to the finger springs though. Hmm.

 

Found it on their website...for that search. 
https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Polo+Coupe_1.3_1984/p/car-parts/clutch-and-associated-parts/car-transmission/clutch-kit/?641440691&1

 

and View Details says  it's for AAV from 1987 onwards. Yep, only three dowels on a 200mm flywheel.

 

Might need a 052198141ax.

 

 

Edited 6 May, 20188 yr by dvderlm