and picked up the bolts and a gearbox return spring and some pressure plate bolts.

The Allen head bolts are discontinued. So took the next up to match 3 dowel flywheel.

They are 14mm not 18mm long, but have 12 pointed head I've not come across before

(was expecting internal spline bolts)

 

UNC metric 12point?

Are there matching sockets in 1/2"?

 

its just a regular socket ...same pattern as a spanner if you get me

 

9mm on mine...halfords sell em

Rigbt.

 

Is hi-torq the same?

Actually need 3/8" to match the ridiculously expensive low torque wrench I'm borrowing.

not familar with hi -torq  , if you mean torx then i dont think so no , unless theyve changed for new style fixings, all mine have just been 9mm 12 point , but i guess it could be anything now

 

best post up a picture and i can try and help....or take one into somewhere and see what fits , see if your 9mm spanner fits it then buy a socket , ive probably got one here if stuck cb9 area

Edited 18 May, 20188 yr by steveo3002

and took the gearbox off again. About 2.5 hours. Pressure plate is fine, friction disc is fine, release bearing is fine.

a few shards on starter ring, one more tiny spring in bottom of gearbox bellhousing.

 

Aha, it's the starter motor Bendix. Its cog is fine, but it won't spin out by hand. I'll try with a battery see if the. solenoid moves.. Does it need to spin inside something to replicate the gearbox bush?

 

 

 

Hm, it will spin out driven off a spare battery (using the side of jump lead crocodile clips that the wires connects to really helps). 

Maybe it is slightly off square and does not withdraw very efficiently. 

Starter bushing is undamaged.

 

Where are the bits of metal rod and springs from?

🤔

 

 

 

I'll recheck flywheel and pressure plate flatness.

Found a place in Newmarket that can overhaul pressure plates.

 

http://brakeandclutch-newmarket.co.uk/classic

 

info@brakeandclutch-newmarket.co.uk

 

There's no way to make newer plates fit. The dowels (there are 3) are not as far apart.

That or newer flywheel.

 

 

Reply Reply All

ive got the abd flywheel and pressure plate here if you want it free ? same as late mk2 as far as i know 

 

going on hols monday morning so nip about if you want it....

That'd be amazing dude.

I'll PM when I get access to a vehicle.  

Stevo's ABD flywheel on with new bolts (60nm and 1/4 turn). They came with a blue band of thread lock. New pressure plate attached (25nm with 12point 9mm socket) and friction disc centred with a bit of stick , gearbox on with some threaded 12mm bar and two locking nuts in bottom hole to square it up with a ratchet strap and a jack. Gearbox mounts and drive shafts and exhaust all reconnected . Clutch cable and a new return spring fitted. Need to check pedal travel.

And that it all rotates smoothly.

 

Bonus: ABD flywheel weighs 5.2kg, old one weighs 5.4kg (with 6 hex bolts in), but I think the old pressure plate has less metal so about the same.

 

Topped up the gearbox oil before refitting.

 

Getting another starter motor. I don't trust the Bendix, sometimes the cog does not travel clear of the cylinder, or the cylinder does not return smoothly. So perhaps the bits of metal came from it. 🤔😵

Top row is from ABD. There are two thinner long locating dowels either side of one of the main dowels, which are nearer outer edge.

Bottom row is from 1984 GK after 13 years. It had a GX gearbox when I got it and I only replaced friction disc when changed to 8P.

 

ABD

From 1984 GK.

 

 

The bits of metal recovered, and the friction disc I had fitted when I got the screeching noise. The 4 rods do not fit in tbe 4 holes.

 

And the bit of spring is NOT from the  release bearing! Could they be accumulated broken bits trapped in tbe crud inside the gearbox before I cleaned it?

I only cleaned the outside. 

Edited 28 May, 20188 yr by dvderlm

Definitely less metal in ABD flywheel, but more in the pressure plate

left is from GK, right from ABD

 

 

Some detective work says the tiny rods 'n' springs are from the starter motor's free-running / one-way clutch. The rods are rollers. At slow speed starter motor has more torque than tbe flywheel. Once engine fires situation changes and the starter ring pushes the rollers against the springs. They then rotate freely until the driver releases ignition key and solenoid lets the pinion gear retract.

 

 

i told you that was a abd , thinking back its an 8p /golf 1300  , i bought a used 8p and the seller gave me that as the clutch was near new

Important thing is it fits.

Should finish reattaching all the other parts and fit a new old stock starter by this weekend with a new bush. Can't work out how old starter's one way clutch fell apart. Think all the starter/gearbox mounting  bolts were tight though  can't see one very well as obscured by water pipe.

Maybe the pressure plate was fit back rotated 120 or 240 degrees from where it had been to flywheel for 13 years causing some wobble?

 

Haynes says there's a L shaped support bracket at back of starter to block  but I did not have/find one when last changed starter? 

Edited 7 June, 20188 yr by dvderlm

no support bar on mine either

 

 

starter bush then. Trying to get the old one out. Thought I just wound an M12 bolt in and that it pulled out last time?

 

Does not seem to grip with some threaded bar.

M12 thread cutter?

Other ideas

 

 

 

 

I've used a similar method, pack the bearing with general purpose grease and use a suitable diameter bit of rod to hit and that forces the bearing out

Think the "suitable" diameter rod was my problem. Tried for 2.5 hours with tissue and water and threaded bar and hammer. Tried refitting starter and tightening bolts, adding more tissue and water. Not much space to swing hammer.

 

So removed the tightly packed damp tissue with a corkscrew. Inserted M12 bolt held it downwards to cut a thread in bush inside, then upwards, then placed a cable tie loop in hole, pushed bolt in and tightened it until pushes against case. And the bush unwound and emerged in under 2 mins.

 

 

 

The hydraulicing method works well, but the rod/bar used to hammer in does need to be a good fit into the bearing, but good news you've extracted it, perseverance and patience always helps 👍

All back together and back on the road. Biting point a bit low, but nice feel to the clutch. Should be easy adjust.

It's also seems incredibly loud after nearly 6 weeks of bicycle.

Ah, there's a wheel bearing to change.