Hello all,

 

Sorry if this has been covered before.  There is loads of stuff in the archives about anti roll bars but couldn't find exactly what I'm after.

 

The Questions: Do I need to drop the exhaust any to fit a replacement bar?  I guess axle stands are better than ramps for this job - with it being suspension?

 

The car: 6N2, AKK 60 Bhp engine, 1.4, 8 valve, petrol.

 

Anti roll bar: 18mm

 

Have a much better condition bar I want to fit and new drop links.

 

Many thanks in advance.

 

Simon

Had a look under the car today (didn't bother raising it).  Loosened the bolts on the roll bar.  Slid the replacement bar under there just to compare.

 

I didn't drop the bar down but looked and I'm pretty sure there is no way that bar is coming out without dropping the exhaust.  There are just too many twists and turns on the bar to thread it past.

 

Haynes had it as a 2 spanner job and make no mention of dropping the exhaust.  Bet they did the job and wrote it when the exhaust was already off and just overlooked it.

 

Looks like my flexi pipe is burst on the front section of exhaust so don't want to drop it anyway.  Just had two new tyres so will probably just put the new drop links on the old bar and get the wheel alignment done.

 

Looks like I was very lucky to get through the MOT with just a cv ball joint gaiter needed doing.  Will definitely get a new car this year.  Was thinking of keeping this one on the road for mum  (as mileage would then be nothing) but there is just too much wants doing now that is costly - think she will need a newer vehicle too.  Won't be able to afford Volkswagen this time.

 

Sorry to ramble.

Ok. Put the car on stands to do this job.  Will give some pictures shortly.  Main concern is that 25 NM seem too much for the drop link to wishbone bolt torque.  The problem I'm having (more on the driver's side because of corrosion [even after paint]) the end of the bar is still narrower than its original 18mm spec.  As such the new drop link (which still needed some red rubber grease to easily push on) is still a little sloppy.  So as you tighten the bottom bolt the whole link wants to turn in the wishbone to an angle which just doesn't naturally flow from the end of the bar - it totally looks wrong.  I slackened off till it looked right.  Just tightened it to around 18 NM at the moment and will probably keep my eye on it.

 

Didn't change the bar.  Rust converter then hammerite on what I could reach.  I'm sure the old one wouldn't have come out without dropping the exhaust (and that is falling to bits).  So the driver's side drop link is still a bit sloppier than I would like.  The pics show the link in a position I was happy with. Really need something to hold the top of the link while I tighten the bottom but it seems there are no flats for a spanner.

 

Pictures are of driver's side which had a new wishbone last year.

 

In the last picture the link looks ok but if I keep torquing the bottom bolt up (towards the correct spec - which I didn't get near) the top of the link just twists against the bar to a really bad angle.  And the thing is the same thing happens on the passenger side but both links twist clockwise and so end up at opposite angles to each other.

Edited 16 May, 20188 yr by cosaw

Hold the bush in the correct angle with a large adjustable spanner while you torque the but up to 25Nm

Thanks Nige!  It sorta dawned on me afterwards that I need to hold it somehow but just didn't know if I'd missed something more obvious like flats for a spanner on the link under the bush.  By that time I'd given up and run out of common sense.  Haynes manual says to torque the bolts once the vehicle is back on the ground and I'll just have to experiment to see what I can get in there to hold the bush end.  That or take the wheels off again to get in something larger.  I learn something I didn't expect to with every job but it takes me so long going back and forth I wonder whether it's all worth it.

 

Thanks again!

More pictures and info on the torque setting.

 

To get to the point: today I torqued up one of the old links on an old control arm that was previously taken off the car.  I torqued up to 25 NM and the nut stripped the thread of the bolt.  Threads were not rusty or anything.  Nothing wrong with my torque wrench - I have two in the same range and they match.

 

Anyway.  Didn't have a spanner quite right for Nige's idea or mole grips.  I got some slim water pump pliers on the neck under the bush.  I took the nut off and turned the washer the other way up with the convex side facing the underside of the rubber (I thought that was better cos what I took off the car was so twisted up I couldn't tell what was right).  I don't know how soft the metal is but the larger water pump pliers I first used seemed to dig in and I didn't know if I'd stretched the bolt neck or twisted the fixed washer side.  Anyway it stopped the twisting problem.

 

I got up to 18 NM and decided that was enough. I can keep an eye on it over the next few weeks.  

 

Check the second picture comparing the old link to the new and you'll see the exposed bolt length comparison.  The old link has the nut all the way home at its final stop point so you can see the new ones are not yet metal on metal.

 

Right I'm gonna stop worrying and get my wheel alignment done for the two new front tyres.  Doubt the ARB will make much difference anyway!

 

 

Edited 17 May, 20188 yr by cosaw

Hi guys I'm having an issue with the bushing on the sway bar. I cannot line the plate up with the screw hole. I've used a jack but it always stays at an angle. I've used your picture as reference thanks.