With all due respect, it isn't possible to find TRUE TDC by poking things down a plug hole - what you can find though, is the top of the stroke, BUT you will not know that the crank is in the dead centre position.

However, if you do use this method, once you have found the top of the stroke, if you then rock the crankshaft backwards and forwards a few degrees, you will be able to 'feel' the APPROXIMATE dead centre position, at which point, if your key/keyway is in good condition, the factory TDC mark on the pulley should line up.

 

The only reason that flywheel marks are more accurate than those on the pulley, is that (1) the flywheel is larger in diameter, and therfore any SLIGHT errors are not so important. (2) the marks align with something solid, rather than bits of bent tin (which can become even more bent)

 

With the screwdriver/dowel on top of the piston, be aware that as the piston rises, the screwdriver/dowel can become trapped - at which point it is time to stop turning the crank and investigate.

 

Regards.

to me it sounds like you just need more practice ..regardless of where the timing marks are it shouldnt really move...so set to xx marks , rotate the engine with a spanner and it should still line up?

 

remember it needs turning 2 whole turns to line up again

I will do does the water pump need to be tightened right up or just enough so I can twist the belt from left to right abit with my fingers 

id snug it up initially ...turn it and confirm the marks , tweak the tension and turn it again until happy with tension and the marks lining up  

Ok mate will do I bet this topic has been rather entertaining for you it’s certainly kept you occupied for a few days that’s for sure 😬

no bother ..forum is rather slow these days 

Its all good info for other people, doubt you'll be the last to have this 

and it made me look wishfully at a g40 pulley... 

I did think that I also thought it could be several factors the bottom end has been sat for over two years so have things moved?the head has been skimmed twice so that may affect the cam marks and the engine is that heavily modified I’ve had to rebuild the engine and put all the standard parts back on to get it to run properly again and then gradually put the performance bits on slowly and build it back up as I go so it’s been a slow process 

I’m starting to think about a pulley now 

Depending upon just how much metal has been skimmed off of your head now, it might be advisable to have a little less that the recommended amount of ignition advance.

I would suggest that you set it as standard, but if it 'pinks' under acceleration, you will need to retard the ignition until you can just accelerate without the pinking - then take it back a further degree or so.

 

PINKING: Sounds like a pebble rattling in a tin can when you accelerate.

 

Regards