Glad to hear your up and running, a lot of head scratching I'd say.

 

I haven't got mine out of shed yet, fitted the huco pump and swirlpot it seemed to be getting too much fuel so fitted an inline filter and it's slowed it down. Carb was then backfiring so advanced timing a bit and that's stopped, it's running now but idling a bit high, the Jets i left as the Weber 32/34 come from a 1.6.

Definitely get to a point of being sick of it lol

 

I'm also running 4 branch and gt cam, ramair filter on carb

 

dvderlm where did you mount your huco under bonnet?

Edited 4 May, 20197 yr by VwDan
Missed a question

Huco is just the other-side of bulkhead from battery. Not moved from Weber DMTx position for the Dellortos. Just changed outlet angle.

Return pipe is in front of the strut tower with a 6mm bolt in case I want to revert.

But inner wing would work too. I used to have a big airbox on the wing. It has fuel filter, aux headlight relays and breather hose

7 hours ago, VwDan said:

Carb was then backfiring so advanced timing a bit and that's stopped, it's running now but idling a bit high, the Jets i left as the Weber 32/34 come from a 1.6.

Definitely get to a point of being sick of it lol

Backfiring is lean, grey black smoke is rich.

If too lean, advancing will compensate, but you do want standard 5bdtc static timing for the rest of the curve

to be right. Vac advance tube taken from outlet above throttle plate ( if you have a distributor with UFO looking capsule).

 

There's mixture screw and idle speed screw.

Use Redline's lean best idle procedure, and ideally invest in a colortune spark plug.

 

Try new 40 or 45 idle jet previous owner might have got creative with a needle file .

Check the float level is not too high.

 

13 hours ago, dvderlm said:

Backfiring is lean, grey black smoke is rich.

If too lean, advancing will compensate, but you do want standard 5bdtc static timing for the rest of the curve

to be right. Vac advance tube taken from outlet above throttle plate ( if you have a distributor with UFO looking capsule).

 

There's mixture screw and idle speed screw.

Use Redline's lean best idle procedure, and ideally invest in a colortune spark plug.

 

Try new 40 or 45 idle jet previous owner might have got creative with a needle file .

Check the float level is not too high.

 

Thanks for the reply, your very helpful. 

 

I will take the Jets out and see what they are and cond. They didn't look too bad from what I remember.

 

Timing I'll check again, it looked spot on but I couldn't see a marking thru hole for flywheel.

 

For float height do I need to split the carb.

 

It I get it going half decent I'll take it to a local man to get timing checked, it's too low for a trailer.

 

Thx again 👍

I could not see where a 46 idle jet had been reamed to about 70, except by comparing it to another one and inserting thin wire strands.

 

Yes, float height means taking top off, holding it perpendicular to normal and checking gap from float to top cover as it just begins to open the needle valve.

You might damage the gasket between top and bottom so be careful; be prepared to get new gasket or whole gasket kit. It has to seal for the carb to work.

So it is last thing to investigate. Rarely, float will stick on side wall and cause problems, but only after poor handling like being dropped or tang bent stupidly..

 

You can get a reasonable idea by blowing air down a thin tube (the wd40 straw on end of long flexi tube is ideal) lowered gradually into either main jet hole and watching/listening for the air stream hitting the fuel in the well.

But I can't remember how high the fuel sits in the reservoir with the floats in. 

Sometimes the fuel on a removed main jet stays in the side holes, so you can know there is good amount of fuel in there. 

 

Edited 6 May, 20197 yr by dvderlm

Ok got a look again over last few days, changed the plugs and now it's running smoother, but idel is very high I can't seem to get it down with any adjustment. If I bring timing back it does lower but carb back fires.

 

I still kinda think I've too much pressure, the inline filter you can see it moving with pressure, this filter doesn't seem to be a one way filter as no arrow or markings

 

Took a wee vid hope it works

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cRDFzgr8buDDJncF9

 

Thx Dan

The huco controls pressure just fine on Weber. Used it on several.

With and without a Golf mk2 swirl pot depending whether carb had a return pipe.

The needle valve and float chamber removes bubbles.

 

Normally I'd expect a filter before the pump to protect it.

There's a tiny filter at the carb above flat brass screw at inlet pipe union.

 

Idle speed you can't reduce suggests vacuum leak.

Backfiring through carb is lean which might support. that suggestion..

 

Did you use a new rubber base mount?

New vacuum tubes?

Edited 18 May, 20197 yr by dvderlm

I put the filter there to slow down the flow to the carb I thought it was getting too much petrol, the fumes of unburnt petrol would knock you out.

 

Yeah I have new vac lines, used smaller fuel pipe.

 

There is no rubber mount like the standard one, I have the weber adapter then a kinda bakalite mount, I'm sure there is a paper gasket too, I'll check again, are you just using standard rubber adapter.

 

I sprayed carb cleaner around carb and manifold but no change in revs, on the manifold it's a metal gasket, I know before in past vws it was a paper gasket.

 

This is really doing my head in ha ha

Ok, that should be leak free as flat. (I used a Febi rubber mount.) But might let air in when it gets hot, hence paper gasket. Maccoll found waxed cardboard is great.

So is the idle jet too big? 

 

Have you got the throttle flap a bit too far open so it is idling on the progression holes, not the idle circuit alone?

The point of the flap is to throttle (squeeze neck to death) the airflow into the engine which naturally wants to spin as fast

as it can.

Edited 19 May, 20197 yr by dvderlm

ok I seem to be getting somewhere now, running a lot better with a few tweaks 🙂

 

tell me this does you fuel pump constantly pump when the engine is off, I thought it was to stop with the automatic stop

but it pumps away, does that mean its just pumping fuel down the carb when ignition is on,

No, my fuel pump turns off once the carb reservoir(s) is full.

The pump rate slows right down then stops.

 

There could be dirt in the needle valve letting fuel past. That would play havoc with the fuel level which is critical.

 

Definitely using a huco 133010 rated 0.15 bar?

Not a 133000 rated twice that as designed for near fuel tank..

http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/HUCO.html

Ah, but with the Weber DMTR I had to fit an o-ring to the needle valve holder
 to shut it up - and there was a tiny fuel pipe leak too.

 

Edited 28 May, 20197 yr by dvderlm

ha ha i wasn't long checking once i read your post, was starting to panic, na its defiantly Huco 133010 from fastroadcars

 

very interesting indeed on the needle valve holder. think the carb is going to have to come off again, im very temped now to buy the

re-build kit.

 

hopefully i can work it out, shouldnt be too hard seeing there is only one needle ha ha

Thanks for the info, ill let you know, ill try get a few pics

You've got a  swirl pot with return?

At 27 seconds into the video.

Can't see it well enough. 

 

The pump will send fuel back go the tank when the needle valve closes...

 

 

Yip have swirl pot in with return.

 

I removed the fuel filter from were it was and put it before huco pump now.

 

I'll get a look at the needle valve on Fri and see what's going on

The pump won't shut off with a swirl pot.

Hope the needle valve investigation reveals something.