# Twin carb on 1.1L

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Not from the head. Maybe the 1.1 heat riser pipe from exhaust to base of inlet manifold?

For 1.3 water heated you may need 2  t-pieces so it is fed with hot coolant in parallel to the car heater.

On my GK, from memory  it enters manifold from thermostat end of main water pipe at back of block, leaves at far side of manifold, flows through Pierburg water-heated-choke, and returns to 't' in water-pipe towards middle of block. Maybe there are three holes? Long time since I removed I... it just needs to flow in one and out of another - driven by normal coolant pump.

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It’s a picture of my manifold, for sure heating comes from the head, and then go to the exhaust pipe

i found a manifold with just two holes for water, then i have to connect to the car heater

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see if you can find a mainfold from a GK engine where you live...same fitment as the ebay one but much bigger diameter

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On 16/12/2018 at 17:48, victordu26 said:

- The head has holes for heating the original carb, so I have to close them ?

Yes.

I'm guessing at the hole diameter.

It needs to stay in when coolant is pressurised which I guess is up to 22psi/1.5 bar.

Either bung inserted from inside head (doubtful it is accessible) -

or a piece strong metal sheet over each bung bolted into original manifold top holes?

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6 hours ago, steveo3002 said:

see if you can find a mainfold from a GK engine where you live...same fitment as the ebay one but much bigger diameter

Yes, but I think it's as difficult as in your country to find !

3 hours ago, dvderlm said:

Yes.

I'm guessing at the hole diameter.

It needs to stay in when coolant is pressurised which I guess is up to 22psi/1.5 bar.

Either bung inserted from inside head (doubtful it is accessible) -

or a piece strong metal sheet over each bung bolted into original manifold top holes?

It's not water in this hole, it's exhaust gaz ! It comes from under the exhast valve of cylinder 2 and 3, that's why I have to find a good solution to close them. I'll try with a piece of metal bolted on the remaining hole in the head, hope it's enough

See a pic of the head, in the exhaust pipe, we can see the hole (not easy to focus for the pic...)

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could it be made round the threaded by a engineering shop , then a blanking piece to screw in ?

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Ah, really exhaust heated, sorry.

Good machine shop might even be able to aluminium weld holes closed.

In UK, I would try T and L Engineering in Bedford or http://www.engine-shop.co.uk/cylinder-head-repairs.html

Don't know what France is like for such skills nowadays.

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17 hours ago, steveo3002 said:

could it be made round the threaded by a engineering shop , then a blanking piece to screw in ?

Good idea, Maybe I can find a solution like this !

12 hours ago, dvderlm said:

Ah, really exhaust heated, sorry.

Good machine shop might even be able to aluminium weld holes closed.

In UK, I would try T and L Engineering in Bedford or http://www.engine-shop.co.uk/cylinder-head-repairs.html

Don't know what France is like for such skills nowadays.

I'll see with the shop which is going to grind my head, maybe they can do this king of stuff

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Hello !

The project is going well

I refurb an old weber 30/32 DMTR, and made an adaptator flange with CNC to fit on an 1.3 manifold

The rest of the engine if fully refurb, with new pistons rings

The head has been grinded from 2mm, new vavle guides, new valves, and all polished

Ports of the new manifold are aligned with the head

And now everything in place, holes for the old heasting of manifold are closed with aluminium plates, it seems to be ok at the first test

Heating of the manifold is OK, I find old Polo's cooling pipes which fit perfectly, as OEM

Now I have to find an air filter. I don't want Ramair or something like that. Impossible to fit the original airbox, it's too high

I want to put a plenum like this :

But what kind of airbox can I use ? I'm looking for a Golf MK1 GTD airbox bu very very hard to find... Another idea for a "direct fit" ?

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3f airbox ?  if you can modify it where afm stays

Edited by steveo3002

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Edited by dvderlm

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Thanks for air filter.

For the moment I’ve find a Ramair, so I have time to find a good airbox

I’m running with ethanol e85 with my engine, which mean to run 30% more rich than ordinary petrol. And it runs very well, it’s a good update for 1100 !

My configuration :

1st barrel :

idle 60

air 175

fuel 125

2nd barrel:

idle 65

air 185

fuel 135

Now I’m looking for a doc to tune the starter. What is the « positive opening » when i put the starter ?

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Posted (edited)

Starterklappenspalt in German?

How far the choke flap is pulled open from fully closed when first fire?

On a Pierburg 2e3 auto-choke I think the spec is 2.5mm +-0.1mm and measured with a twist drill bit like this.

I expect similar amount of opening for the Weber 30DMTR with 22/22 chokes as for Pierburg 2e3 with 22/26 or maybe 19/23 chokes.

See Vergaser Kennblatt for Pierburg 2e3

DMTR is manual choke so you once cracked open at first fire and engine moving the car along you can push the flap fully open sooner.

Ethanol. Make sure you have good quality fuel hose ( SAE J30 R9  or better)

I found quite a lot of black rubber bits in my fuel filter after 2 years of 5% ethanol fuel.

eg

Edited by dvderlm

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I found a link for  fiat uno with weber 30dmtr which provides the throttle plate gap for fast idling - but not Choke flap gap

http://www1.ci.uc.pt/pessoal/soniap/uno haynes manual.pdf

Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250 Application . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1301 cc engine

...........................................................................................................Primary Secondary

Venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 23

Auxiliary venturi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 5

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.87 0.95

Air bleed jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.85 1.75

Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F43 F38

Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.50 0.50

Air idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11.0 0.70

Pump jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.45

Pump outlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40

Superfeed jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 0.80

Superfeed mixture jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 2.00

Fuel inlet needle valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.50

Anti-syphon device . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.60

Idle mixture adjustment hole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.50

Float setting (fuel level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.75 to 7.25

Fast idle (throttle valve plate gap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.90 to 0.95

Accelerator pump delivery (ten strokes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5 to 12.5 cc

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What 4 numbers are in the small oval on side of Weber behind choke lift rod?

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