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victordu26

Twin carb on 1.1L

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dvderlm

Not from the head. Maybe the 1.1 heat riser pipe from exhaust to base of inlet manifold?

 

For 1.3 water heated you may need 2  t-pieces so it is fed with hot coolant in parallel to the car heater.

 

 

On my GK, from memory  it enters manifold from thermostat end of main water pipe at back of block, leaves at far side of manifold, flows through Pierburg water-heated-choke, and returns to 't' in water-pipe towards middle of block. Maybe there are three holes? Long time since I removed I... it just needs to flow in one and out of another - driven by normal coolant pump.

 

 

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dvderlm

post a picture of the hole in head please

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victordu26

It’s a picture of my manifold, for sure heating comes from the head, and then go to the exhaust pipe

 

i found a manifold with just two holes for water, then i have to connect to the car heater 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-MK2-Polo-Coupe-1-3-S-86C-81-90-Inlet-Intake-manifold-036129713K-/283324801681

D6178F52-D7F0-408E-8A66-2E3861E98995.jpeg

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steveo3002

see if you can find a mainfold from a GK engine where you live...same fitment as the ebay one but much bigger diameter

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dvderlm
On 16/12/2018 at 17:48, victordu26 said:

- The head has holes for heating the original carb, so I have to close them ?

Yes.

How about 2 rubber bungs?

RUBBER BUNG/STOPPER NO.13 (13MM X 16MM X 24MM)

I'm guessing at the hole diameter.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/RUBBER-BUNG-STOPPER-NO-13-13MM/dp/B009ZT10H4

 

It needs to stay in when coolant is pressurised which I guess is up to 22psi/1.5 bar. 

Either bung inserted from inside head (doubtful it is accessible) -

or a piece strong metal sheet over each bung bolted into original manifold top holes?

 

 

 

 

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victordu26
6 hours ago, steveo3002 said:

see if you can find a mainfold from a GK engine where you live...same fitment as the ebay one but much bigger diameter

 

Yes, but I think it's as difficult as in your country to find !

 

3 hours ago, dvderlm said:

Yes.

How about 2 rubber bungs?

RUBBER BUNG/STOPPER NO.13 (13MM X 16MM X 24MM)

I'm guessing at the hole diameter.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/RUBBER-BUNG-STOPPER-NO-13-13MM/dp/B009ZT10H4

 

It needs to stay in when coolant is pressurised which I guess is up to 22psi/1.5 bar. 

Either bung inserted from inside head (doubtful it is accessible) -

or a piece strong metal sheet over each bung bolted into original manifold top holes?

 

 

 

 

 

It's not water in this hole, it's exhaust gaz ! It comes from under the exhast valve of cylinder 2 and 3, that's why I have to find a good solution to close them. I'll try with a piece of metal bolted on the remaining hole in the head, hope it's enough

See a pic of the head, in the exhaust pipe, we can see the hole (not easy to focus for the pic...)

 

IMG_0070.jpg

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steveo3002

guessing used heads arent available?

 

could it be made round the threaded by a engineering shop , then a blanking piece to screw in ?

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dvderlm

Ah, really exhaust heated, sorry. 

 

Good machine shop might even be able to aluminium weld holes closed.

In UK, I would try T and L Engineering in Bedford or http://www.engine-shop.co.uk/cylinder-head-repairs.html

 

Don't know what France is like for such skills nowadays.

 

 

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victordu26
17 hours ago, steveo3002 said:

guessing used heads arent available?

 

could it be made round the threaded by a engineering shop , then a blanking piece to screw in ?

 

Good idea, Maybe I can find a solution like this !

 

12 hours ago, dvderlm said:

Ah, really exhaust heated, sorry. 

 

Good machine shop might even be able to aluminium weld holes closed.

In UK, I would try T and L Engineering in Bedford or http://www.engine-shop.co.uk/cylinder-head-repairs.html

 

Don't know what France is like for such skills nowadays.

 

 

 

I'll see with the shop which is going to grind my head, maybe they can do this king of stuff

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