Hello all. My lemon has thrown up over me again with lovely horn crap.

Ive tested the horn and it works. All fuses (and i mean ALL) are fine and not blown. Which l3aves me with the only bit left...horn switch?

Can anybody give me some sound advice as id rather run a switch to dash than start pullingwires out the steering column.

Or is there something else that couldve blown?  Oh and thecar had a slightly higher ampage horn than stock which is made me worry. Ive got a backup horn that is less amps but o ly 1 terminal insteead of 2

Any help would be awesome

Thanks all

The original setup, the supply from fuse 19 goes through the fusebox disconnect plugs (white connector) pin 5 Black/Yellow wire then to the horn, the earth side comes from the horn to the same white connector pin 1 Black/Brown wire and then to the "Clockspring" behind the steering wheel, and the horn push makes the ground connection, My initial guess would be the "Clockspring" has the steering wheel/airbag been removed recently ? 

 

By the sound of it your replacement horn is designed for a switched positive as it only has the one connection with the earth being made via the mounting bolt so not really a suitable replacement without a completely new wiring setup

No steering wheel hasnt been off since ive owned it. I know this car has no horn relay and is switched ground. Ignoring my replacement horn for the time being. I pressed horn earlier and it gargled a little and that was that. Tested it with direct power and was fine. Is it still likely to still be clockspring.

How easily can i pull airbag/horn button off steering wheel and run the horn cable to ground to test?  Ill get my multimeter later and can maybe delve into it abit bettrr

Have a look at this https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/331054-6n2-steering-wheel-removal/?tab=comments#comment-2611926 

 

Sweet. Well that looks fairly easy. 

Where is the horn button in thst arrangement

When you get the airbag off, you will see the spring loaded plate that acts as the horn switch, but a word of warning, if you put the ignition ON with the airbag disconnected, you'll end up with a warning light being set and that'll need diagnostics with CANbus to reset the light.

Sound advice. Can i pull airbag cover off but not disconnect the wire? As i will have to test it.

And as alway. You are a font of knowledge and in a few words explained better than me sp3ndings hours on google haha.

Thanks

There should be enough length of wire on the airbag unit to leave it connected and still be able to push the plate in the centre of the wheel to test the horn

Ok.....i pulled out my multimeter and pulled off airbag. Switch for horn is working. And when i put multimeter where horn should be i get all correct readings.....12v from the ignition. And ground when horn pressed. ...yet when i plug anything into it no dice...im absolutely baffled😪😪😪😑

Edited 16 April, 20197 yr by feeblington
Spellcheck

That sounds like you have a high resistance somewhere, with the horn plugged in, can you try putting a ground onto the Brown/White wire close by the horn or at the bulkhead White connector I mentioned before and see if that works, if it does then you know the high resistance is in the earth side of the wiring and again first suspect would be the clockspring 

Ahh.  Well thats promising.  Ill check that now. So just to make sure. Run the ignition live to it. Then ground it and dont use the switched ground cable thst goes back to clockspring.

Yeah connect the horn up so it has the ignition supply, then ground the other pin and see if it works if it does then your looking for a high resistance on the switched ground wire

Hello. So..that worked and as per tour diagnoses. I have high resistance on the ground wire...as youve said im guessig this is clockspring....now the poorman question...i dont wanna fork out for a new clockspring as my airbag light isnt on..and baeicly only effecting the horn.....

CAN i put a relay on the end where to horn would normally be? As its reading 12v im hoping it wont need high current to activate and could get away with doing it that way? 

Sorry my bad explanation

So igniion live to relay. New wire from battery to relay. New wire from relay to horn. Ground the horn and run the switched ground to the relay as the switch (technically bqckwards?) Would thst work or would the resistwnce still be too much?

You might be lucky and get the switched ground to energise a relay, but as it's already high resistance, it's only a matter of time before it completely fails, much better to replace the clockspring https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Polo-6n2-00-02-Steering-wheel-Squib-clock-spring-slip-ring-1H0959653E/223262530130?hash=item33fb7bda52:g:y1kAAOSwH-daKSsd   or  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Airbag-Clock-Spring-Squib-Spiral-Cable-For-Volkswagen-Seat-most-models-to-2004-/162961404595 

Thanks again.

Well....to be honest im kinda fed up fixing this thing. Will it fail and mot if i still have a horn..its just on a switch ive cabl3 tied to the indicater stalk 😊

As long as it has a horn that can be operated by the driver in a normal seated position. that's the only requirement

Wicked. Then job done. Cheers for your assitance.

😁