I need a new pair of front calipers for the 6N 16V. I have done a rear brake conversion and the rears run so hot, have a feeling the front pair are either sieized or air trapped and the nipples have snapped off them.

 

 

6N0615125B

6N0615126A

6N0615124D

6N0615123D is for the AFH

 

CLosest I can find on ebay is ;

6N0615124B

6N0615123B

 

 

 

Is the AFH for 252mm discs

and standard 6N has 234mm discs?

 

 

 

 

looks like will have to buy from buycarparts .  

I wouldn't have thought that air in the system or seized front callipers would cause the rears to run hot.

Disc brakes do run hotter than drum brakes due to the fact that there is (or should be) a clearance between the linings and the drum, but on discs, the pads are in constant contact with the disc.

 

If your rear brakes really are running too hot, even without using the brakes a great deal, the problem could be due to the hand brake cable being too tight, or even seized quadrants.

 

If you do change the front calipers, I would suggest that you also purchase new mounting kits.

 

Regards

sounds like theres a problem with the rears rather than the fronts 

 

front brakes do way more of the work than the rears and will always be hotter on a car that works right

I have changed the fronts with new calipers - stil same issue. rears temps are 150 C and front are 50 C.

 

Both front and rear discs are new. The rear are super clean/shinry. The front seem to be still tryna bed in.

 

its polo 6n afh. These dont have brake bias adjuster do they?

 

Is there something wrong with this. The blue is a float goes up and down. When washer touches the metal contacts the brake warning light (handbrake light) comes on.

But there is very minute gaps around the plunger, wont air get introduceed? been driving like this for ten years, was fine before doing the rear disc conversion

That reservoir is above the master cylinder so no air will enter unless the fluid level becomes very low or you drive upside down and brake.

 

Wall of death rider I talked to once said the brakes were the most dangerous things on the Indian Scout motorbike. so they remove them.

 

3 hours ago, damunk said:

these dont have brake bias adjuster do they?

Not mentioned in Haynes, as far as I could see (DOHC, ABS and Girling calipers), but I'd be surprised if there was no load compensator front/rear to adjust for loads of weight in the back. Follow the hydraulic lines back from the rear brakes.

See if the go to a valve with a spring linked to rear axle?

Is it lowered?

The car is only lowered slightly but I cannot see The brake pressure regulator : 

Hasn't got one then. 

 

Does it have ESP control that brakes a wheel when detects spin beginning (as opposed to ABS that modulates off/on rapidly at emergency stop)?

 

HaS  abs . ESP I think is for the later model polos.

been doing some search and apprantley theres not brake bias valve is there is a abs unit as the abs does all of this,

 

hmmm abs light is on. i have fitted new hubs with abs rings on the rear brakes.

light still not gone off. must be one of the fronts.

 

 

Well I have replaced the abs sensor and the abs is now working but still not enough fluid pressure going to the front brakes. both front acting identical.

how can you adjust brake bias if there isnt one? if i had known i would not have done rear disc conversion.

 

On 15/12/2019 at 14:46, steveo3002 said:

sounds like theres a problem with the rears rather than the fronts 

 

front brakes do way more of the work than the rears and will always be hotter on a car that works right

fronts arnt working, rears are .

If you have ABS that does the bias adjusting, so there is no adjustment possible. 

 

When you bled the brakes did you put the ABS into service mode with VCDS ? The other thing that springs to mind have you got the front & rear pipes connected to the wrong ports on the ABS unit ?

no wrong ports connected to abs unit because those pipes i did not touch. when i changed the rears, i  connected some new pipes (about 1,5 foot in length)  to the existing fittings.

 

 

i did not put ABS into service mode, I have had brake fluid change done in the past at garages and i cant remember using any computer on the car.

 

is it worth buying a cheapo vcds lite version from ebay...?

 

 

 

Ok just trying to eliminate some of the basics, if you haven't changed/replaced any of the pipes going to the ABS unit that eliminates that, but have you when bleeding let the level drop too low as that could of introduced air into the ABS block and that could explain the problems, and the only way then is with VCDS to put it into service mode so it fully opens all the ports and then you can bleed it normally, the other possibility would be the M/C not giving full pressure on one circuit 

i drained out the brake reserviour tank too much, it could have got empty, infact it could have gotten all out when doing the brake conversion.

i will buy vcds lite version

i got the lead and vcds free version. ross who provide full version have asked me if vcds is neccasary to bleed abs. 

 

i take it the free version only allows you to detect fault code

8 hours ago, damunk said:

i got the lead and vcds free version. ross who provide full version have asked me if vcds is neccasary to bleed abs. 

 

i take it the free version only allows you to detect fault code

Function chart for the various versions here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Functions

I think you'd need to register your Lite for $99 to get output tests for the ABS module, probably.

i managed to hook it up with cheap ebay lead. 🙂 asked ross how soon they can supply me full version and they asked me to find out ;

"the detailed  procedure  for the exact abs in my car"

 

which is nice of them, most companies would wanna sell you straight away

Nice one.  What was the procedure?

I dont know, thats why im asking lol 

ive searched everywhere on net.

 

 

Oh, OK, I thought you were saying you'd done it.

What does VCDS say your ABS system is?

i just breifly put it on and it had a intermittent fault on left side. then i switched it off as i was just checking to see if cable worked.

 

im certain full version is required for actually making the pump run with VCDS?