I don’t really know much about cars. I’ve got a 56 plate polo and I haven’t done any mods to it except my boyfriend put an induction kit on it the other week. I’ve noticed that a few times before and since that my car will stall after I start it up without any feet on any peddles or in gear. Today and yesterday I’ve noticed a couple times that when I put my car in second it either slipped out of gear or something because the shifter would shake and obviously I couldn’t accelerate but it didn’t look like it was in neutral. I’m worried that my gearbox is faulty or something but I’m hoping that I was having an off driving day. 

Tell him to check the gear change cable at both ends.

What he said ^^^^^

 

There's an alignment procedure for the cable change gearbox.

Just needs a 5mm diameter rod or drill bit and some patience.

 

 

 

Thank you, i completely forgot I put this post up. The gears haven't slipped since but 8/10 times i start the car it stalls now, and then when i go to start it up again it takes a couple seconds. My boyfriend says he'll have a look at it but he doesn't work on petrols so he might not be much help. He's said that maybe i should press the throttle after it starts so i'll give that a go as well. He also said that I might not be twisting the key long enough, but i'm so afraid of it stalling that I make sure i here that its started before i let go of the key. I got it on video last night but the file is too big to attach, two seconds after it's started it'll start to die and then stall. 

^^

FullSizeRender.movProbably should’ve had to lights on to show clearer but I didn’t know if it would effect it. Not sure if the video link will work. 

Edited 15 November, 20205 yr by Libertycann

Sorry, many things that could affect cold starting and warm-up.

 

There are quite a few engine sensors. Engine oil temp and intake air temperature,

'the exhaust lambda sensor which takes a while to warm up.

A fault code reader might reveal a diagnostic at stall time.

No check engine light I assume.

 

When it was last serviced?

Has it done mostly short journeys because of lockdown?

 

New sparkplugs and air filter element will nearly always help.

 

I used to have a petrol lawnmower with a pull cord starter that hated first mow in March April and last damp days of October. New spark plug, new (or vacuum cleaned) air filter and it would start immediately and idle like brand new.

 

I was getting my boyfriend to service it after my MOT last month but I haven’t been able to get him to do it because of lockdown. It’s the next on the list to do as well as new front tyres. I don’t drive very much due to living in the middle of a town, but when I do go out I drive about 30mins each way and if anything I’ve been doing more short journeys due to having to do shopping for my mum now instead. I’m going to get some codes read as there’s no lights come up on the dash but I need an idea of what could be wrong

No dash warning lights is good.

 

When you get the codes read, if there are any, ask for and make a note of the snapshot information too? It will have IAT intake air temperature and throttle load percentage and RPM hopefully.

That might help someone diagnose remotely along with the code. Or it might be a general 'Too lean bank 1'  message which is essentially 'the engine did not burn the fuel properly (because it stalled) for an unresolved reason'.

 

Does it start easily first go?

Soz, not even tried to watch the video.

 

Battery might be getting old and then not being re-charged fully with shorter than 20 minute journeys. 

 

I'd still suggest new spark plugs. Cheap(ish). Easy job with right tool. They are a wear item. 

 

The colour of the old plugs can sometimes guide towards diagnosing a fault too.

 

I’m getting codes read tomorrow so I’ll note down what’s wrong. The car starts like it normally would but then cuts out, if you can watch the video it shows. I can never tell if it’s going to stall it’s always just a surprise because it starts fine. The next time I start it I notice that it can take like a millisecond longer but not much. I don’t take it out much but I Defo drive over 20 minutes when I do.
 

I will let you know what I am told tomorrow. Thank you so much for the help 

UPDATE 

Car was read for codes, there’s a fault in my immobiliser. Told to try the other key for a while. If not I’ll get a new lock and barrel. Thank you so much for your help! 

A new lock and barrel is unlikely to fix an immobiliser fault.

 

Do you know what the code was ?

 

The immobiliser is part of the speedo display and there is a common problem with these speedos, the soldered connection between the printed circuit board and the wiring connector goes bad, but it is an easy cheap fix with a soldering iron.

I wasn’t told what code it was but apparently it was cleared. Was told to try the other key which has worked. I’ll keep you updated if the situation carries on, the car wouldn’t even start first time yesterday 

Get a new battery for the first key?

 

Don't buy from a VW dealer the markup is ridiculous.

1 hour ago, dvderlm said:

Get a new battery for the first key?

 

Don't buy from a VW dealer the markup is ridiculous.

 

The battery in the fob has nothing to do with the immobiliser chip, it is a passive device energised by the read coil around the ignition lock

My key isn't a fob, it's literally just the metal part, have to put it in the door handle to lock etc 

15 minutes ago, Libertycann said:

My key isn't a fob, it's literally just the metal part, have to put it in the door handle to lock etc 

 

Yeah just a basic key, it will have a chip inside it for the immobiliser but as I said it doesn't require any external battery to make it work, it is energised by the "reader" coil around the ignition switch.

I’m confused. So apparently the code was the immobiliser but it might not be? 

2 hours ago, Libertycann said:

I’m confused. So apparently the code was the immobiliser but it might not be? 

 

This why I asked what the code was ? as that would give a clue as to what is happening, and aide the fault finding, an engine starting then cutting out within a couple of seconds is classic immobiliser kicking in and stopping the engine, but there a few codes relevant to the immobiliser and without knowing what the code is you'll have to adopt the "shotgun" fault finding method and replace everything in the system, so that's the engine ECU, the Speedo unit, the ignition key barrell reader coil   

Check those solder connections to the instrument cluster circuit board green connector. 

It's all a bit of a guessing game without the specific fault codes, so here's my guess, might be right, might not....

 

I'd be thinking an immobiliser issue, caused by a fault within the dashboard clocks, it's a known problem on these cars (bad solder joints usually). However, there's a slim chance it's the electrical contacts behind the ignition switch getting worn away (not common on the newer cars). Try gently keeping the key pushed deeper into the switch after you've started the engine. 

 

The dashboard clocks aren't terrible to remove there's a few videos on youtube - this one's good 

 

 

If you can find someone who does electronic repairs (decent little computer or TV repair shop), they should be able to re-make the solder joints fairly easily. 

 

The outside option is it might be possible to have the ECU (Engine Control Unit) reprogrammed to ignore the immobiliser. I've had this done on one or two VAG cars by a company called VAGtronics. They've always seemed to be honest and knowledgable when I've asked them anything, so it might be worth seeing what they can tell you

 

https://vagtronics.co.uk/contact-us/

Thank you so much, I will set the solder joints checked at the weekend. I can ask what the exact code was just for general reference but there’s no guarantee I’ll get it. The second key seems to be working fine so far. I’ll let you know if I find out what code it was 

^^ he doesn’t remember what the exact code was but he will take a picture if I need it read again. 

Here's a picture with the two relevant pins highlighted. Reflow the solder on those even if they look OK.

 

 

Okay thank you 

Pete,you're just a fountain of knowledge when it comes to polo's,don't know what we'd all do without you