Hopefully a quick question that can be answered easily. I did try using the search function but I was unable to find a definitive answer that I understood.

 

Please could someone say where is/are the best/safest place(s) to place a trolley jack when attempting to change the wheels, brake discs and pads?

 

Also should I use a piece of wood to spread the load of the car better on the jack/minimise damage?

Edited 14 May, 20215 yr by AnonyMoose

I'd started a similar thread a while back, I'll try and find

MK2 alternative place for jack stands - Bodywork, Interior and Trim - Club Polo

Solid,as flat as possible ground, handbrake on, in gear, opposite corner chocked with brick or chunk of wood. Old kitchen worktop offcut is strong and survives days of rain when a job goes wrong like the hydraulic slave cylinder bleed nipple shears off.

 

I use a trolley jack on the sill seam where there's small triangle indent down low on the sill near each wheel. I use a small piece of wood between jack and sill, I place the wood grain across the sill. If you put it along the sill it'll likely split. Raise the car checking the wood can't slip out as the trolley moves on its wheels, lock the jack, and then I place an axle stand below the track control arm mount at front (without any wood), and gently lower less than an inch onto the stand.

(My axle stands have a stirrup shape that aligns well with the TCA mount and a ratchet to make raising to wanted height simple, with a lever to drop away, when car is lifted up again to easily remove when job finished. Some have a pin on chain to keep it in place.)

 

At rear, find similar triangle indent, but place axle stand at axle pivot (or rear beam) being careful of brake hose and cables.

 

You can buy PU 'hockey puck' that fit over a trolley jack head and has a groove into the sill seam to protect the seam and paint. Never used one myself.

 

You can't rely on just a trolley jack. It might be okay for a quick job like a wheel change, when no part of you is ever under the car. 

 

One day a seal will give way, fluid will leak and the car will lower itself to the ground. It might do so slowly straight after you have lifted, as happened to me, or suddenly without warning. 

 

A trolley jack lasts longer if you always lower gently, apparently.

 

Sorry if I'm teaching a grandma how to suck eggs. Dunno how experienced you are.

I’ve used the hockey puck with a slot on my 1991 gt when the sills were pretty old and it worked well. Fits into the top of the trolley jack and over the seam along the bottom of the sill spreading the load.

Ideal for a wheel change and small jobs but would recommend axel stands for longer work.

Apologies for the exceptionally late response. Thank you all for the suggestions. I appreciate the extensive explanation as I lack confidence and experience with car mechanics. Needless to say, I was able to accomplish the task of changing the wheels. I purchased a hockey puck rubber spacer for the jack and that helped make the task easier. I have since changed the offside rear wheel bearing as that was quite rough and it was a MOT advisory and recovered the aerial after I accidentally loosened it and it dropped inside the panel. I took off the wheel housing liner after again jacking the car up and pushed the aerial back through the hole.

Great work.  You can really notice lack of a radio.

 

That’s great. Have new rear drums with new bearings to put on but just not got around to it. I’m seriously neglecting the project! I’ve even sprayed the new drums with heat resistant paint but this hasn’t motivated me to put them on. Car is under a dust sheet in the garage feeling sorry for itself. One day!

Painting drums is such a good idea. I'm really glad I did it. They looked in great shape when I relented and changed a rear wheel bearing recently (had tightened it about 4 times but the wub-wub sound kept coming back). And nice smooth surface. Could even consider a more open alloy wheel shape. Most drums look awful.