For some reason my Polo randomly cut out the other day.

 

It was driving fine but then all of sudden I got no power when I was pressing the accelerator, it felt like no petrol was getting to the engine. The car continued to run but eventually cut out.

Since then I have been unable to start it up.

 

The fuel pump seems to be working. I can hear it humming and felt it vibrating when I've turned the engine on.

 

Does anyone have any ideas what it could be?

theres 2 pumps ..are both running ?  one under the car near the spare wheel and other inside the tank access is via  cover under the rear seat  

 

could also check for spark ...rest a spark plug against a metal part on the engine and have a helper crank it ..you should see a spark 

9 minutes ago, steveo3002 said:

theres 2 pumps ..are both running ?  one under the car near the spare wheel and other inside the tank access is via  cover under the rear seat  

 

could also check for spark ...rest a spark plug against a metal part on the engine and have a helper crank it ..you should see a spark 

 

Didn't know there was two... The one underneath the seats is working, I'll check the other one tomorrow.

 

What do you mean by check for a spark? I've just changed all of the spark plugs so they should be working fine.

 

 

If you remove the air filter cover (on an SPI) you can see the injector squirting and the squirts getting bigger with throttle.  Not exactly scientific but it will rule out a total failure/blockage.  Even if she wont start, you should see some fuel squirting as its cranking.

 

If you've just changed the plugs, its worth checking the leads are all still on firmly.  Also if the leads were close to failing, the bending from removing them for a plug change can sometimes be the final thing that makes them quit.

 

Are you electricals otherwise fine, does the starter motor crank ok, instruments and headlights switch on?  

 

 

 

20 minutes ago, Bread said:

If you remove the air filter cover (on an SPI) you can see the injector squirting and the squirts getting bigger with throttle.  Not exactly scientific but it will rule out a total failure/blockage.  Even if she wont start, you should see some fuel squirting as its cranking.

 

If you've just changed the plugs, its worth checking the leads are all still on firmly.  Also if the leads were close to failing, the bending from removing them for a plug change can sometimes be the final thing that makes them quit.

 

Are you electricals otherwise fine, does the starter motor crank ok, instruments and headlights switch on?  

 

 

 

 

Might need some need ignition leads as I haven't changed them yet. 

 

All of my other electrics are working fine. Dashboards lights up, lights all work fine and motors seem fine.

conform theres a spark...new plugs dont mean anything , could be a faulty could or hall sender..,if you see a spark then you can eliminate that 

On 20/01/2022 at 19:48, steveo3002 said:

theres 2 pumps ..are both running ?  one under the car near the spare wheel and other inside the tank access is via  cover under the rear seat  

 

could also check for spark ...rest a spark plug against a metal part on the engine and have a helper crank it ..you should see a spark 

 

On 20/01/2022 at 19:48, steveo3002 said:

theres 2 pumps ..are both running ?  one under the car near the spare wheel and other inside the tank access is via  cover under the rear seat  

 

could also check for spark ...rest a spark plug against a metal part on the engine and have a helper crank it ..you should see a spark 

I take it that this is the 2nd fuel pump and filter?

On 20/01/2022 at 20:21, Bread said:

If you remove the air filter cover (on an SPI) you can see the injector squirting and the squirts getting bigger with throttle.  Not exactly scientific but it will rule out a total failure/blockage.  Even if she wont start, you should see some fuel squirting as its cranking.

 

If you've just changed the plugs, its worth checking the leads are all still on firmly.  Also if the leads were close to failing, the bending from removing them for a plug change can sometimes be the final thing that makes them quit.

 

Are you electricals otherwise fine, does the starter motor crank ok, instruments and headlights switch on?  

 

 

 

Nothing squirts out when I initially then the key but when I stop and can see like a puff of mist.

 

The video file is to big for me to upload it as reference.

The mist sounds like fuel, but maybe not enough. Cold engine does needs a rich mixture.

 

Checking for spark means resting the body of a spark plug against bare metal with plug lead attached and looking for the regular little blue lightning strikes when you crank. Dusk makes them easy to see.

 

You can hold the lead attached plug's body in a jump lead whose other end is connected to battery negative or bare metal to make it easier to see from driver's seat (and away from the sparkplug hole for safety)

 

Or you can check with plugs fitted.

 

• Dribble a small amount of fuel down the SPI unit (a small capful) and listen if that will fire when you crank.
• Or a 5 second squirt of EasyStart spray, and listen if that will catch when you crank.

Edited 23 January, 20224 yr by dvderlm

yes thats the main pump....should buzz briefly when a helper turns on the ign

On 23/01/2022 at 13:37, Musky said:

Nothing squirts out when I initially then the key but when I stop and can see like a puff of mist.

 

The video file is to big for me to upload it as reference.

Ok, the puff of mist might change in shape when you stop cranking as the engine is no longer sucking. Since your car won't start its difficult for you to judge because until you've seen it misting when running its hard to know what is "normal".  Was the back of the brass throttle plate looking shiny wet with petrol? 

 

I would follow the spark and fuel methods suggested above (make sure to test all the plugs individually to prove them all).

 

If spark is good and she starts using easy-start and you therefore know its a fuel problem, you could also try these:

 

i) spray a little carb cleaner using a "thin tube" spray can nozzle onto the injector mouth.  You cant really see this well but its the cone which is aimed at the throttle plate  This is incase there is oil or gunk on the injector (from the crankcase vent which outputs in the floor of the air filter housing).  

 

I have never managed to flood one of these engines but be aware that the cleaner and any fuel which has sprayed out will try to drip down into the throttle and then manifold... it evaporates but after several attempts it can add up.  You can always open the throttle by hand with the car turned off and look down the hole at the metal "hedgehog" to make sure its not puddling wet.  An over fuelled manifold isn't great for either starting, or safety.  

 

ii) Car turned off, disconnect the electrical multi plug on the injector and check its looking clean and was on tight,  clean with contact cleaner if necessary and refit.  I have previously tested the injector resistance on mine (AAU 1043cc) on pins 2&3 and got 1.8 Ohm, though I was unable to find an official spec to compare to.  A spare injector assembly I had looked awfully dirty and gave a 30 Ohm resistance, after spraying it it came down to 1 or 2 Ohm.

 

After that, if still no fuel but your pump is pumping, you're looking at injector/filter/tank pickup pipe blockages.  

So...

 

I have replaced both the Coil Pack and Ignition leads but still no luck with starting.

 

I checked the fuel tank and it seems to be clear. 

 

I have also check both fuel pumps and they seems to be working. I removed the fuel filter and there seems to be a fair amount of fuel being pumped out when I try to start the engine, however it still doesn't start.

 

My next place to look was going to be the distributor and distributor cap.

 

It just seems strange why it randomly stopped.

 

Another forum stated that my fuel pressure may be too long but i haven't checked that yet (don't know how).

 

Any ideas?

 

you can get a fuel pressure tester on ebay for around £20 last time i looked

 

have you looked for a spark by holding a spark plug against the head while connected to the lead ?

 

 

its one of these things- you need to decide whats good and whats not

fuel - present at the rail/engine bay under pressure with key on -both pumps buzz 

spark- crank with a plug held against the head

timing -align belt marks using a 19mm socket on crank

compression- need a tester for this

 

all easily checked at home with basic tools ..i would check in that order  , no point in guessing and randomly replacing parts

Edited 17 February, 20224 yr by steveo3002