Want to change crank seal at pulley end.

 

Taking off pulleys and belts. Done alternator. Next cambelt.

 

Can't get waterpump to move.

 

I'm sure it's clockwise to loosen, but won't budge either way after loosening the 3 bolts.

Long screwdriver a bit awkward because of the twin carbs.

Various rods have bent.

Tried a bottle jack to lift engine using the water pump to make it rotate clockwise, but the piece of wood I used just bent.

 

Ideas?  

 

https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/343434-mk2-polo-cambelt-tension-problem/?do=findComment&comment=2676168

 

bigger bars and a hammer , might end up needing a new one ? 

If it's stuck and not turning, it will be seized onto the metal water pipe. Give the outlet onto the metal water pipe a decent soaking in release spray and come back to it a day later, then get a decent pair of grips/water pump pliers on the pump body, but expect to fit a new waterpump afterwards.

 

I've ordered a spare pump and I'll try with my lump hammer and a chisel.

I've also got 5 foot long wrecking bar!

 

Might remove the offside carb for improved access.

 

Wonder if I can go in from water pipe end. It's just 2 bolts, but not been touched in 30+ years.

 

I also ran my mains powered coolant preheater for 30mins, which warmed the block but that made no difference either.

 

 

has it been on a long time ? can only be corrosion jamming it in place 

 

i wouldnt disturb that pipe unless forced to

Yeah, the danger is on twisting and tearing the end of the metal water pipe.

Got it to move.

Whacked clockwise with a massive chisel and lump hammer from below.

Then anti-clockwise from above.

Anti-Clockwise to loose tension. It has to be because of the bolt slots.

And the looseness is felt on the rear length of the belt.

Then used a big screwdriver to fully relax it.

 

And proceeded with removing offside engine mount and lowering that side of the engine on a beam. Removed the below exhaust tension bar, but it's no good exhaust manifold collides with ARB. 

 

Just not enough clearance to get at the crank pulley, or the gasket seal. I've got a special tool for extracting the gasket.  No way will it fit.

So it's strip exhaust manifold and other mount, or an engine out job, or cut the inner wing away.

Waterpump's been on about 7 years.

I think I used some radweld during that time. Was a hose split below jubilee clip that I replaced once I found it.

 

Coolant changed since (and reused though a sieve), never looked rusty. I'll guess at East Anglian limescale sticking it as I didn't always use distilled water with the antifreeze.

Not as oily as I expected at the crank.

Oh well, put it all back together and fit a new alternator 675x10 vee/aux belt.

Think I'll have to run it on the ramps and see where the black oil is coming from.

 

The leak was an advisory last MOT.

  

 

It does seem to be from behind the crank pulley.

 

So tried again.

Disconnected battery earth. Set TDC.

Loosened the 3 pump bolts.

Water pump moved really easily anti-clockwise.

Retightened the 3 pump bolts as it drips a bit of coolant.

Took off new vee belt and alternator. Moved alternator to starter cable out the way.

Suspended engine at one lift eye with a tiny crane.

Removed rear gearbox mount and gently lowered watching everything.

Lifted it again and removed alternator tensioner arm (single bolt.)

Lowered again and can see 3 of 4 Allen bolts on the pulley. 

 

 

Leant hard on the engine. Got the angle grinder out...

Now I've got access, without too much structural damage ... need to lock the flywheel to undo that big crank bolt.

Edited 19 June, 20224 yr by dvderlm
battery and other small things

"need to lock the flywheel to undo that big crank bolt." 

 

Starter motor off and a big screwdriver/cold chisel into the flywheel ring gear or you can buy a proper toothed tool that uses one of the starter mounting bolts and locks onto the ring gear 

Impact gun will wizz it off ..or in gear with a helper standing on brakes and use a breaker bar

🙂

Got a toothed flywheel thingy from the working on the Octavia., somewhere.

 

Certainly got a big cold chisel now. I may try to use the plastic flywheel/clutch inspection hole on top of the gearbox.

 

and first turn crank back 90 degrees so pistons all mid height and no where near valves.

Buzz gun, Yeah!

 

Got an electric buzz gun now (DeWalt 1/2" short body) and it is awesome. Struggled for ages with a rusty Skoda suspension bolt nearside (moving the car or lifting myself off the ground with a breaker bar, mole grips, heat, cold, spray, hammer, the works) and a friend's big Milwaukee Lithium impact driver took about 0.1 seconds.

 

I joked I had loosened it for him, so he did the other one the offside in 2 seconds; it had only had some Plusgas soaking overnight.

Think the pulley bolt is an m12x1.5 35mm long.

Or it might be m14 x1.5 47mm long.

 

High tensile for sure

 

I found crank main bearing bolts that are m10x65 (febi 18160) 

 

 

I suspect the m14s are 12 pointed like febi 09590.

Picture heavy. Just in case anyone else ever attempts changing crank seal with engine in situ.

 

m12 1.5 thread x35mm crank bolt for old Polo.

 

My Octavia toothed things are too big for an ickle Polo. Simple locking key inserted after removing flywheel cover plate.

 

 Hammered Allen key in and got aux pulley off (4 small bolts, bit of hammer and lever). Yeah, it's oily.

Undo the M12 bolt (19mm socket, used a 12 point and a breaker bar, as the impact drill just shook and banged. Maybe drill helped. Rest the extension bars on a block of wood, stamp on the end of the breaker bar.)

Lever off the crank pulley, careful not to lose the woodruff key. 

Screw  in the VW special tool (VW-2085) by hand, with locknut engaged. It has a conical threaded section that bites into the old hard gasket.

Disengage locknut and wind the centre part in clockwise with a 1/2" wrench. A washer spins against the crank end and pulls the gasket out.

Not as oily black as I expected behind that gasket. So oil pump is maybe not the leak source?

Clean it all up with degreaser. Lightly oil and drive in new gasket with a 32mm socket and a hammer.

And fit the degreased pulleys back, line up the aux pulley's bump and the woodruff, and torque big bolt to 80Nm.

I've used incredible shiny, never rust Titanium bolts that are high tensile, low weight. Head is only 17mm on the M12, but tall and it's even drilled for lock-wiring.

 

Remove the flywheel locking 'tool'. Reset 1/4 turn to TDC and refit the belts, ready for tensioning. Re-raise the engine.

 

Gearbox's clutch inspection hole, gives no access to flywheel teeth.

 

Starter motor is awkward to access with my twin carbs.

Tried screwdriver in flywheel teeth but it moved, or fell out too easily, even when just doing the Allen bolts.

A 90 degree bent metal rod, placed in a sump bolt access cutout worked for me. 8P gearbox.

Edited 26 June, 20224 yr by dvderlm

Where's the oil from?

 

Perhaps the gasket was so hard it didn't seal well any longer, and crank bearings are surely worn by now, so crank will likely move a bit more than it should (guess). But it would have been oily behind crank seal...

 

I did the conrod shells 7 years ago when I re-ringed the pistons. But didn't touch the crank.

 

clean below rocker cover, clean below head gasket,

no oil from camshaft seal as far as I can tell (that was done new when I changed valves, while crank gasket might have been an original 38 year old  Reinz).

 

Maybe the dipstick tube o-ring has split? Need to look with a mirror.

I wiped around it and was not noticeably oily, not like when it did not have an o-ring.